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Author Topic: Ball Link Installation Question  (Read 1176 times)

Offline Peter Hess

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Ball Link Installation Question
« on: October 04, 2010, 10:13:51 AM »
From a purely structural/mechanical point of view, is there any reason not to install two ball links - - one for the flap pushrod and one for the elevator pushrod - - on opposite sides of the flap horn but through the same hole in the flap horn?

Aside from purely structural/mechanical considerations, are there reasons - - controls geometry particularly - - not to do this?

Your comments and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Peter Hess
Canton, CT
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Offline Wynn Robins

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2010, 01:01:00 PM »
you answered your own question.  If you put them in the same hole in the flap horn - it will throw out your geometry on the controls.

In the battle of airplane versus ground, the ground is yet to lose

Offline Peter Hess

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2010, 01:54:46 PM »
Wynn:

Thank you for your response.  I have not built a flapped stunter since the Veco Chief I built when I was a teenager with no coach and no clue.  (Miraculously, the Chief flew pretty well, I thought.)  That was a very long time ago and little has changed since then.  So, I don't have the knowledge or the experience to doubt what you say.  Therefore, please take the following as nothing more than a question or a plea to dispel a small bit of my ignorance.

I asked the original question because it seemed to me that if the moment arms of the bellcrank, flap horn, and elevator horn were all the same I would get 1:1 flap:elevator deflection.  Less flap deflection relative to elevator deflection, if appropriate, could be achieved by changing the hole in the elevator horn.  What am I missing?  Is there something else about control system geometry about which I don't know enough to even ask?

Any help you are willing to give me will be most welcome.
Peter Hess
Canton, CT
AMA 485070

Offline Paul Smith

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2010, 02:55:29 PM »
I hope there's nothing wrong with it, that's exactly how I'm building a Magnum right now.  Two 4/40 ball links bolted together with one bolt at the flap horn.  Equal control in and out of the flap horn.

The contol ratio will be whatever I set with the flipper horn.
Paul Smith

Offline Randy Ryan

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2010, 08:35:56 PM »
Wynn:

Thank you for your response.  I have not built a flapped stunter since the Veco Chief I built when I was a teenager with no coach and no clue.  (Miraculously, the Chief flew pretty well, I thought.)  That was a very long time ago and little has changed since then.  So, I don't have the knowledge or the experience to doubt what you say.  Therefore, please take the following as nothing more than a question or a plea to dispel a small bit of my ignorance.

I asked the original question because it seemed to me that if the moment arms of the bellcrank, flap horn, and elevator horn were all the same I would get 1:1 flap:elevator deflection.  Less flap deflection relative to elevator deflection, if appropriate, could be achieved by changing the hole in the elevator horn.  What am I missing?  Is there something else about control system geometry about which I don't know enough to even ask?

Any help you are willing to give me will be most welcome.

Peter,

Your throws will be the same with your described setup. Its true you can change the flap/elevator differential by changing the pushrod on the elevator. But remember that this will also effect the elevator travel in relationship to the handle angular displacement. This may or may not work out for you, I always try to set my up so I can adjust the flap travel while leaving the elevator travel alone just to keep the relationship between eleveator and handle. It may not be important, but that's the way I do it, it just sortof establishes a baseline I can relate to.
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Offline Geoff Goodworth

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2010, 02:36:24 AM »
This is difficult to explain and picture without force diagrams but fitting the pushrods on opposite sides of the flap horn applies a twisting moment to the horn and the brazing if it is an all-steel piece.

I don't know whether it's important or not.

Cheers, Geoff

Offline Paul Smith

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2010, 07:54:02 AM »
Your point is valid.  But most other hookup schemes apply the same twisting action.  The real fix is to use one of the double horns that box the output device between two arms.  Most people get by by using a really heavy duty horn that overwhelms your (well founded) concern.
Paul Smith

Offline Randy Ryan

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2010, 08:02:47 PM »
This is difficult to explain and picture without force diagrams but fitting the pushrods on opposite sides of the flap horn applies a twisting moment to the horn and the brazing if it is an all-steel piece.

I don't know whether it's important or not.

Cheers, Geoff

This is certainly true, but I bet if you were to calculate the force at the tiny offset of the ball radius minus the flat, it would be negligible. That said, I still try to put mine in double sheer, that is a double are on the horn that straddle the ball. But I make myown horns too, so its easy for me to do, using the available hardware out there, side mounting ball links is fact of life. 
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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2010, 08:48:21 AM »
I do it quite a bit now to get the surfaces to move according to what I want.  In fact on my King Sweep if you look at the pictures on the related thread you will see one bolt with ball link on each side of the flap horn.   H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Offline Peter Hess

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Re: Ball Link Installation Question
« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2010, 04:51:21 PM »
Although this is rather belated, I do want to thank all of you who responded to my inquiry.  Your comments were very helpful.  Since I have forgotten even the basic trigonometry needed to determine useful control geometries, with the help of my drafting board and a mock-up I think that I now have a pretty good handle on what should work for my application.  It will not surprise those of you who are so much more experienced than I, but I think that I reinvented the wheel.
Thanks, again, for your help. 
Peter Hess
Canton, CT
AMA 485070


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