Do I move the lines more forward coming out of the wing for more line tension or move them aft?

Hi John, You move the lead outs back for more line tension.

     Unless they are too far back already. It's not oen of those things where if a little is good then a lot must be better.  Not enough information in the original post to call it one way or the other..
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

Doubtful.

        Most people have no clue about this, and general human reaction is if a little is good a lot is better.  Look at all the plans and designs out there with lead outs too far back. That was something I didn't know getting started and neither did you. it's almost counter intuitive for most people to think that moving them forward is the right thing to do. I have a Jamison  OTS model that the original builder made the lead out guide adjustable with the spacing the same as the bell crank. The rear lead out was damn near at the trailing edge. Not very flyable at this position. Reworked the adjustable lead out guide with the spacing about 1" and moved the lead way the heck forward of the spar, I think and now it will pull like a .60 ship anywhere you point it. I don't know Mr. Watson but if he's like a lot of other guys on the forum he's a retread getting back into the hobby and remembers things like they were, so his first models will likely have lead outs too far back. trhe main thing I cautions people with moving lead outs is to mark the location so you can move them back in case you do not get the desired affect, and do so before making any other changes.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Do I move the lines more forward coming out of the wing for more line tension or move them aft?

Not so simple.  Moving the leadouts back will point the nose out which should help, but also reduce airspeed which decreases line pull. 
There is a correct position somewhere in the middle.

I have a Sig Banshee and when I try any maneuver other than level flight the lines slack up. I have the recommended offset on the plans of the engine and rudder. I am building a Twister that I will incorporate the adjustable leadouts. I didn't fly much stunt many years back just mostly rat racing , combat and goodyear. Too old for all that now so just trying to fly some stunt and starting with these profiles and later to a full fuselage. Already have learned a lot reading here.

Does it go slack when you:

• Do an inside manuever only?  Then you have a wing warp or tilted stab
• Do any maneuver at all?  Then you (probably) need tip weight
• Do an outside maneuver only?  Then you have a wing warp or tilted stab
• Fly high?  (Ease into this if it's really that squirrely)

Have you visually inspected it for warps?  My preferred method is to stand it up with the spinner on my toe, and sight down the back of the plane with the wings level -- it should be obvious if the stab is level with the wing.  If the wing is straight the trailing edge should -- visually -- be smack in the middle of the wing, not trending upward or downward.

This in not a leadout position problem, unless you mean that it goes slack once it gets up to 45 degrees, not that it goes slack as soon as you turn.

Thanks for all the input...…...I will make some adjustments and keep trying. Lots of good input thanks a lot.

As Dan say,  if a plane is built straight, true and light there should be no problems.   I've had several that I did full patterns on second flight because they felt good.  But then again I have had a couple that I have not completely figured out yet.