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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Motorman on April 15, 2017, 11:22:50 AM
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30 minute epoxy or Original Gorilla Glue. The a really flat surface with a really flat plate/board on top with lots of weights on top. Let cure for at 24 hours. White glue will work but have to leave weighed down for several days for the glue to dry.
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When you're making one of those stab/elevators with the built up ribs and sheeting how do you glue the sheeting on the second side?
The first side is easy because the ribs are exposed. I've got Sigment, med CA and Titebond. I did it once with CA and had to work super fast and slop the glue on before it dries and I think I got too much glue on it because it had shrinkage problems. Any tricks to this?
Thanks,
MM
MM,
I don't know if there are "tricks" my guess is different strokes for different folks.
I use slow CA on both halves. I mention this at the Gee Bee R-3 build over at CFC Graphics vendor's corner.
I cannot speak for others but it works great for me. Could hit the edges with CA if you want to be sure, but I silk these pieces.
Here's the photos.
CB
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Use the titebond. Before you glue the 1st side, put the 2nd side in place on the framework and trace around ribs so you know where to put the glue.
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44 ribs. Do you thin the titebond? I've been putting the glue on the ribs, it would definitely go faster putting it on the sheet. Thanks, MM
Use slow-set CyA on the ribs, and dust accelerator on the sheeting.
Of course, poke a pinhole in each rib, and one in the sheeting near a corner. Otherwise it will be sealed up and will inflate/deflate with temperature changes.
Brett
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Titebond has a slow-cure version (Titebond II maybe?) that stays wet a lot longer than the more yellow version. I apply it with a stiff-bristle flat brush, maybe 1/4 inch wide. This allows very rapid placement and spreading of the glue, dipping into a puddle of glue on a small piece of wax paper or a small container. I have applied molded LE shells on 3 60-size models this way with no problem, plus rib caps and TE sheeting. Tape the ends of the wax paper to the table so it doesn't life when dabbing the brush into the glue puddle. Poking holes in the finished stab is probably a good idea for the reason stated. Full scale fabric aircraft have vents in the corners of rib bays (lower side) for ventilation so why not us?
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I have given up on all water-based adhesives due to warping problems. On leading edge sheeting, I use SIG cement, thinned out with acetone to make drying much slower.
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Is all thick CA glue slow cure? The only product I saw was Jet slow set extra thick. Anyone use CA gel? Says it cures in 3-4 minutes.
As far as I know, thick= slow cure. I know nothing about gel, never heard of it before.
Brett
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There is one advantage to using white glue, in that sheeting of 1/16 thickness you can iron the sheet down after glue has dried. I have done this with great results. But, if it doesn't stick the first time that means not enough glue.
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There is one advantage to using white glue, in that sheeting of 1/16 thickness you can iron the sheet down after glue has dried. I have done this with great results. But, if it doesn't stick the first time that means not enough glue.
This is what I was going to mention also.
I haven't done it before, and I would surely test the procedure and have it down pat before trying it on the stab sheeting. Pretty slick if you can get it to work correctly though.
If you try this, MM, let us know how you fair.
R,
Chris
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I found this task easy with Sigment. There was for me plenty of time to apply, spread and then lay the planking down before the glue was unworkable. Worked on 3/4" thick glass surface. Used full shotgun cartridge boxes to weigh down the piece till dry. Found the Sigment to be easily sand-able when shaping elevator edges.