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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Tim Wescott on April 15, 2011, 04:05:39 PM
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Is there a good spray-on adhesive to hold sandpaper to a wood block? I'm thinking of something that'll hold it on for sanding, but will let me peel it off when the time has come for a new sheet.
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3M makes some low stick stuff, but I've been using Deft spray on rubber cement. Never really gets hard and you can peel off sandpaper pretty well (as long as you don't wait forever) and the stuff comes off with naphtha.
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3M 77 for permanent bond. You can rip most of the sandpaper off but there will always be some thickness of the backing paper left on the block. Xylol will quickly loosen the left on stuff which can then easily be scraped off.
3m 75 for repositionable bond. Unless the paper is left on for some while the sandpaper will come off pretty easily. If, however, it does stick or if some of the backing paper happens to stick to the block, xylol will take it right off.
Xylol is, of course, a mixture of xylene and toluol and one can get it at Ace Hardware stores. Be sure to have very good ventilation if you use this stuff.
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I use a light spray of 3M-77, but be sure to spray it outdoors!
The over spray settles on the floor, and is very sticky! ;D
To remove, just warm the sanding block with your heat gun, or iron, and the sandpaper will pull off easily.
Bill
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I use a light spray of 3M-77, but be sure to spray it outdoors!
The over spray settles on the floor, and is very sticky! ;D
To remove, just warm the sanding block with your heat gun, or iron, and the sandpaper will pull off easily.
Bill
Yep. ;D
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Tim
I have been using Scotch Permanent Double sided Tape for 35 yrs. Most of my sanding blocks are maple and 2 or 3 strips of this double sticky tape sticks the sandpaper to the blocks very well and allows removal when the paper needs to be changed. Try it, you'll like it. None of the undesirable issues of the spray adhesive.
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If you have to remove some residue of the "sticky stuff", the best and safest thing to use is lighter fluid. No breathing issues, no carcinogens, (as far as I know, anyway) and very effective. This is what Goo-Gone is, actually. It's also great to use as a cleaner before spraying. The main ingredient is naphtha.
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I will admit to using golf grip double sided tape to attach sanding belts that are cut to use on the edges of my building table. Either the wide belt sander bands or the 1" ones for the combo sanding machines. I am down to about 1/2 of a roll of the 2" wide tape...... gotta order some more. Works well on the Great Planes sanding bars, too.
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Personally, I dont use very much sandpaper that isnt already adhesived (? new word there) I pretty much use strictly PSA roll paper and find while it is a bit more expensive, its a LOT easier to work with. I tend to like Norton's rolls better. It is available in all the grits you need up to 400. It is pretty convinient as in you can stick it to anything to make a block to sand with, tubing, spare chunks of balsa, whatever you need.
http://www.azautobodysupply.com/2x45yapsaro1.html
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But Mark, I have to get that from the local auto paint store, and it's always so embarrassing when I walk up to the counter and drool on my shirt because of the nice paint guns.
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Tim,
You can cure that by buying one. LL~
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Tim, just like Randy saiid,, simple solution,, just buy one, then you dont have to drool, until the new model comes out ,, then the cycle starts over again. alternate solution, just splatter your shirt with some of paint of varied colors,, wear your sunglasses, ( so they cant see you eyeballing them shiney toys) and get what ya need,,,
seriously, this rolled PSA paper is about all I use anymore, its SO convinient, peals off sanding sticks clean, and is hassle free... of course that doesnt help when your wet sanding, or if you have a stack of non adhesive paper does it,,,, There is a product that used to be available for DA sanders to affix non adhesive sanding disks to them, but I havent seen it for ages..
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Tim, just like Randy saiid,, simple solution,, just buy one, then you dont have to drool, until the new model comes out ,, then the cycle starts over again. alternate solution, just splatter your shirt with some of paint of varied colors,, wear your sunglasses, ( so they cant see you eyeballing them shiney toys) and get what ya need,,,
seriously, this rolled PSA paper is about all I use anymore, its SO convinient, peals off sanding sticks clean, and is hassle free... of course that doesnt help when your wet sanding, or if you have a stack of non adhesive paper does it,,,, There is a product that used to be available for DA sanders to affix non adhesive sanding disks to them, but I havent seen it for ages..
I've been away from paint shops for too long -- I think I've used self-stick DA paper once; when I was first taught it was with the spray adhesive.
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alternate solution, just splatter your shirt with some of paint of varied colors,, wear your sunglasses, ( so they cant see you eyeballing them shiney toys) and get what ya need.
Does the paint splatter get you the body-shop discount? There must be a hefty discount for pros. If they pay what I have to pay, people would be driving bare-metal cars.
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Howard,
not as much discount as you may think, by the time the Eternal People of Over-site take a healthy stab at it with the hazardous materials fees, its pretty expensive to the jobber even. its pretty competitive as well with different jobbers vying for the same limited accounts. So not sure it would help, actually wearing a blue striped shirt and jeans, with "joe" on the chest might work better, real painters never make a mess on their clothes *cough* cough*
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He could wear overalls with his last name on them, but then people might mistake him for the band.
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Speaking of clothes while painting. I remember when I first met Dan McEntee. He was always dressed in white. I asked him if that was to impress the judges. He stated, "That no, this are painters clothes and are cheaper than jeans". H^^