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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Fred Quedenfeld jr on July 01, 2016, 05:07:27 AM
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I finally got a kit that I wanted for a long time
I have to take a couple lazer cut 1/4 and laminate them to get 1/4 by half
Any recommendations on how to hold small thin parts and keep them square and straight
any pictures
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I do not have a router or a long straight board to cut a groove in
Fred Q
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Go get a long straight edge ruler from the local home improvement store, or some angle aluminum (or steel). Using a flat building surface and some weights, pins, or clamps build against the straight edge. If you put a coat of car wax onto these tools regularly glue will never stick.
If you have to put an angle into the joint for tapering (or dihedral) then use 2 straight edges fastened at the proper angle. I draw directly onto the building surface to construct the desired angle.
Some plastic, wax paper, or Glad Press-N-Seal will keep the work from gluing to the building surface.
sorry, no pictures.
Phil
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+1 on the technique -- it's what I do. I have lots and lots of small, heavy bits of scrap metal that I use for this.
If you're using something other than epoxy or CA to laminate the spars, you don't have to wax the straightedge. Epoxy would be too heavy anyway, unless you're really aggressive about controlling thickness.
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I now use parchment paper to keep from gluing stuff to surfaces.
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Although this photo shows an old spar end being grafted onto a new straighter piece of stock, it is the same set-up and appearance of when I laminated two pieces to form a larger cross-sectioned spar. The aluminum measuring sticks were sufficient in weight and thickness to hold the bottom piece straight. The weights held the hand-positioned top piece flat and in place. Today I made a straighter spar-like piece by using the top edge of an aluminum level set on edge as the lower surface (instead of table top, which has a slight sag) and aligned the bottom ply piece with one edge of the level. I used the same weights. However, I didn't photograph it. I used epoxy, having had warping problems with water-based glues in similar applications.
SK
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a builders Spirit Level , if it hasnt been used as a crow bar , can be usefull for laminateing on .
(http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/miw3yfva4RDf93qKm7nqaEQ.jpg)
Done Spruce capped I beam spars on these . One with vertical grain 3/32 shear web & 1/16 ply intermittent spacers/ braces , 1/4 Sq. spuce top & bottom.
The Other a 1/4 sheet spar with ply joiners , bellcrank cut out , & 3/8 x 1/8 spruce top & bottom . Tapered . Taped and packed / Measured central on the flat of the level .
Just joinig / laminating untapered strips youd use a corner as an edge to keep em straight . Really Mean & you can clamp to it . Use a pine batten or suchlike .
Clamps direct on the balsa leave clampmarks & youre aiming for the pressue even along the join .
add = Scrap Barrel at the Aluminum Joinery Co in N.Z. is a good source of long straight angles , rectangles & tubes. and not so long ones . D>K ribbed angles for clamping , I guess . Usually FREE .
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Good idea! I should get a second level bar! (to use as base surface and uniform weight)