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Author Topic: Bending Tanks  (Read 1054 times)

Offline Tim Wescott

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Bending Tanks
« on: September 19, 2010, 06:25:22 PM »
How important is it to make round bends in tanks if you're scratch-building them?  Certainly the "bought" ones I see all seem to have rounded bends -- is this necessary to prevent fatigue cracks, or just something to make them look good?
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Offline Don Hutchinson AMA5402

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Re: Bending Tanks
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2010, 08:09:37 PM »
I make all my own tanks from K&S tin sheet, I make sharp corners except where the pickup and uniflow tube solder in place. Have no problems with this method.
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Bending Tanks
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2010, 11:15:14 PM »
I use a bending brake. It's as sharp as it is. No problems.
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Offline David Shad

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Re: Bending Tanks
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2010, 09:09:39 AM »
I doubt you could bend steel/tin too sharp with the tools we use for this...on aluminum now
thats a different story but we don't use aluminum for our stunt tanks...bend radius is not an
issue when using .005 or .007 steel.   Of course having said that...i'm sure someone could
could find a way to do it...lol.
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Offline FLOYD CARTER

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Re: Bending Tanks
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2010, 10:38:17 AM »
A bending brake is OK for heavier metals.  K&S tinplate bends easily over a hardwood form, by hand.  My tanks start out as a pine form and it's normal to slightly round the edges of the form.  The end caps are also made on the same form, by lightly tapping the metal piece around the end of the form with a small hammer.  By going slowly you can avoid kinks: the metal actually stretches and the overlap ends up smooth.

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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Bending Tanks
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2010, 10:31:38 AM »
A bending brake is OK for heavier metals.  K&S tinplate bends easily over a hardwood form, by hand.  My tanks start out as a pine form and it's normal to slightly round the edges of the form.  The end caps are also made on the same form, by lightly tapping the metal piece around the end of the form with a small hammer.  By going slowly you can avoid kinks: the metal actually stretches and the overlap ends up smooth.
I may give that a try.  I'm using Dole pineapple cans right now, which appear to work great, but they may be stiffer than the K&S tin plate.
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Bending Tanks
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2010, 10:51:15 AM »
HI Tim,

I have a set of sheet metal vise grips.  The "jaws" are about 4 1/2" wide.  I use these for doing most of my tin bending.

Nothing wrong with using "cans" for the sheet metal, they are just usually a touch heavier.  I like the lacquer thinner cans when I am out of the K&S.  There seems to always be one or two laying around! LL~ LL~

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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Bending Tanks
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2010, 09:03:56 AM »
The last couple of tanks I have made, were with a tool that "Lee Machine Shop" sells.  It was a little awkward at first, but, the tanks came out looking so much better.  Well it at least works better than the hardwood peices with clamps I used to use. 
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