stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Will Hinton on November 30, 2013, 08:21:23 AM
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Okay, this will commit me to the build. (I know, I know, I should have been committed long ago; to a rubber room.)
In the middle 50's I built the Berkeley scale kit of the SBC 3 and loved the airplane, although I never really flew it! Don't have any idea what i did with it when I went in the Navy! (How do you lose an airplane?!)
I've intended to build another ever since, but had planned on a scale version. I decided the other day I should build a profile this winter to just bang around with on those new spring days so maybe flying a really simple airplane would get me fired back up to fly more.
Well, those who know me know I can't manage anything simple, that's too complicated for my twisted mind. (Figure THAT one out.)
The profile was going to be a warbird. Yup, then the idea of the Helldiver popped up and it was a "gogettem" thing at once.
The ship will be for one of my LA46's and will be planked foam wings coming in around 570 squares.
I love the Navy's paint schemes of the ships back then - the top of most top wings on the SBC were yellow with a chevron indicating the carrier the plane flew from by the color. The tail feathers were also each carrier's color, and there was a band of color (squadron) on the fuse. An air group commander had angled chevrons on the fuse from in front of the canopy angling down to just at the rear of the canopy. All in all, a very colorful airplane.
I'll post a picture here for an example, this is from my Squadron Publications manual of the SBC 3.
So, I am now committed and must answer to y'all for the steady construction. I'll try to not take as long as I did on the Pawnee!
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Will ... Looking forward to your build. Please post photos. I love the big WW2 combat a/c. Any one that can build a Berkeley kit can build anything.
Joe
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"Good" Will Hinton,
Nice!
Plenty of work ahead. Would you consider a built up fuselage? You will have the wing area for the extra minimal weight.
The span your interested in?
Charles
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Thanks guys. I'm doing a profile for now because of the build time of a profile verses the built up version. I still have intentions of building a full bodied scale ship later on. (My bucket list.) Gotta design a retract system first and foremost for that one. It will be a jack screw system.
Span on this one will be 38" top wing, 35" bottom. The motor mounts are curing as we type, then I Swiss cheese the fuse'.
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Will - build it to stunt ....
Joe
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Yeah Joe, that's the plan. My first bipe many years ago did a fairly decent pattern, at least for me as a rank beginner then, so I want this one to have those capabilities.
I'm presently planning the lead out adjuster design so I can adjust both rake and height until I get it right.
The other bipe, while flying well, hinged a lot. Al Rabe suggested his rudder, so I'm toying with that.
For anyone who might be interested, Al did an article in AAM feathuring mIne, Jack Sheeks', and Jean Pailet's biplanes as stunters. Jack's was a Beech Staggerwing, Jean's a Grumman Ag-Cat, and mine was a generic.
It was the June, 1973 edition and is on page 38
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I have an affection for biplanes. The Beech is flat out an ugly design. Same for an Ag Cat. The Hell Diver is a classic and was the state of the art in the 30-s. I also like the F3F and the Hawker Fury. Hoping you will post the build thread.
Joe
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Beauty is only in the eyes of the beholder. I have liked biplanes. One of the reasons that I built my version of Jack Sheeks Staggerwing. What a thrill to get a ride in one years ago.
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In the middle 50's I built the Berkeley scale kit of the SBC 3 and loved the airplane, although I never really flew it! Don't have any idea what i did with it when I went in the Navy! (How do you lose an airplane?!)
I had the Berkeley kit, too, and thought it was really cool. I don't know what happened to mine, either. This is mysterious.
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Howard....I saw yours in your shop, last time I was there. I would have mentioned it, if I knew you were wondering where it went off to. LL~ Steve
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You remember about where, and how deep?
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You remember about where, and how deep?
Oh my. ~^
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Built from a Berkeley kit it might have withered and composted. They are just a box of thin sticks. My admiration to anyone that built them.
Joe
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Thanks guys. I'm doing a profile for now because of the build time of a profile verses the built up version. I still have intentions of building a full bodied scale ship later on. (My bucket list.) Gotta design a retract system first and foremost for that one. It will be a jack screw system.
Span on this one will be 38" top wing, 35" bottom. The motor mounts are curing as we type, then I Swiss cheese the fuse'.
Oh, you mean Avaiojet holes?
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I'm not sure just what the immediately above post's intentions were, but I don't need to get into any of that sort of negative possibilities. It's unnecessary and provides no useful communications to this thread. So I hope you'll excuse me for sticking to what I consider mutually friendly posts, friendly to ALL.
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Will,
I agree. This is about you Helldiver.
Joe
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Found a little time away from other duties so worked on the fuse a bit. First picture is the bare nekked fuse with the carbon fiber cloth epoxied on both sides of the nose. I was out of ply, had always wanted to compare weight of this method verses the ply thing so went ahead and applied it. It's a medium weight cloth, spread the epoxy, put the cloth on and saturated it completely, heated it with the heat gun to make it flow out evenly, then used the old paper towel trick to soak up the excess.
I think the weight is very close to using ply, it's stiffer, and less likely to fuel soak or de-laminate.
Picture number 2 is the fuse ready for the "cut-and-no-paste" step to get rid of lottsa weight. I hope.
The next step, maybe even today, will be to block sand the fuse to a gently rounded shape before putting the 1/16th sheeting on over the formers. I want this to give the appearance of a built up, but stay skinny. we'll see if my hair-brained idea works.
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Cant tell from the photo but that does look nasty ... Did the surface smooth out?
Joe
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Hi Joe,
Yes, the surface actually had to be roughed up to get a good gluing surface after curing. When I lay the CF on, after I soak up the excess epoxy I cover it with wax paper and then weight it down with bags of #11 buckshot. I have a half bucket of "bad shot" not suitable for hand loading and I made several different size cloth bags up for it. It is great for laminating and such. Also for working with wings because the bags conform to the curvatures nicely. Since I have the opportunity here, I'm doing a lot of experimenting with things i've wondered about for some time. For instance, right now I have the outboard side balsa nose doubler curing with Gorilla glue on it.
I've never used it in that area before so now is a good time to learn.
I also, thanks to this forum, just made my first heat formed canopy. That works so neat! More on that later, I have another goofy idea for the "frame" on it.
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Nice subject! I have done similar with the Stearman and had a problem with one iteration I built from factory type drawings. The horizontal tail area on the real thing is not adequate for a model. Hope you have scaled yours to 22 or so %.
Don
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Don, I figured on 24% for the horizontal, split around 60/40 with the 40 being the stab. Does that sound close to you? I know your Stearman has been quite successful, so am most appreciative of any "steer" (pun not only intended, but unabashedly corny.) Thanks much.
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Excellent choice. My first two Stearmans were powered by a front rotor Ohlsson 23 and a Cameron 19. They were built by blowing up a rubber power plan from MAN in 1952. The next one was from the "factory drawings" and flew awful, then I realized rubber flyers enlarge their stabs to get them to fly well. The next bunch all had enlarged tail surfaces and worked good.
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"...The next bunch all had enlarged tail surfaces and worked good..."
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Dang sure did!
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Hope yu remembered that when using Gorilla Glue that you put protection between the material you are clamping/pressing with. That glue will find every little hole and crack in whatever you are using. Even 1/4 in sheet balsa. Glad I use plastic clamps. And yet that first picture did look ugly.
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Yeah Doc, I use wax paper between my clamps and the subject. I use a few pints of GG a year in the guitar shop, so make every effort to preserve my clamps. When ya have some of these expensive clamps, ya gotta be careful or you end up VEEERRRRRY unhappy with yourself. (Do NOT ask me how I know that!!)
You mention it's propensity to fill every little gap, that's why I chose it for this particular area. I had a couple of spots I wasn't too happy with so I figured I would compensate with the old GG and take care of the little inaccuracy in that one spot. (Can you say extra weight?) I know, and promise to do better now.
Now, it's off to swiss cheese that fuse! Later.
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Well, they say confession is good for the soul, but in MY case it's also good for a laugh. (At my expense!) I got so carried away with designing "on the fly" that i neglected to allow for the bellcrank mount!!!! Now I gotta do some modifying just to keep it control line and not free flight! HB~> HB~> HB~>
I'll post a picture or two as soon as I learn how to transfer the jpegs from my new camera. My old Olympus is starting to protest so I'm giving up on her. She's earned her retirement!
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Okay, I'll try this picture thing again. It worked! Now if I can just remember how I decreased the size of the file!! I guess my new camera is TOO good.
This build is keeping me quite humble, I tell ya. While getting ready to mount the canopy I was blacking the area in with india ink and slipped up & spilled the ink on the fuse, what an ugly thing it is now! Doc, you think the raw CF looked bad, you just wait. (Actually, that looked so bad because I couldn't lighten up the image enough for you to see the details - it really wasn't so bad as all that.) And hard? Wow, I love the CF on the nose technique - it will become my standard for profiles.
The bellcrank mount is about cured and will come next, along with a tail wheel mount and I should be ready to skin the fuse about Monday.
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WOW Will, it looks like you are SPEEDI BUILDING! #^
(and you know I am just teasin ya) GREAT subject, looking forward to seeing YOU and the Helldiver, and the crop duster all at the field next summer!
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Hey Dennis, I sure hope we can get together somewhere, some time!! Speed building? Well, maybe for ME! LL~
I'm mounting the canopy now, hope to have it curing by the end of the day, then I can skin the fuse'.
I got my foam cutter back from Trax Tuesday, so can start on the wings right away. (The only two guitar builds I have are spec jobs, so no rush on them, which means I can PLAY!)
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I cut the top wing's three sections and joined them today. Boy, am I out of practice!!! got a lot of chatter on the two outboard sections, but since I plan to A) plank them and B) it's just a fun ship I will sand them smooth and live with them. They aren't all that bad, but I wouldn't build a PAMPA stunter with them. I won't core them since they are so thin, I'll just do the old combat wing-thing and pop a few holes in them after I get the trailing edge and spar installed.
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I started to install a spar in the top wing and discovered all my balsa supply in anything thicker than .070 is depleted! (Haven't been watching things closely enough, I guess.) So I tried an experiment - I sliced the wing where I want the spar to go and epoxied a strip of 6 oz carbon fiber cloth instead of balsa for a spar. Hey, this is such an ideal project for experimenting, dontcha think??
I mixed the epoxy with just a touch of alcohol (and I do mean a touch) to slow the cure a bit and make the brushing easier, clamped the beast in my bench clamp, did the messy part and then taped the LE in place to cure making sure all was straight and lined up properly. I'll sand the "spar" smooth after the curing is complete. Here's
a picture of the thing, and I purposely chose to not do a close up so ya can't see the cutting chatters! n1
Check out my balsa order over in the Open Forum, I found a new supplier that may turn out good, might not.
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Yesterday and today i got the LE and TE on both wings, sanded true and properly tapered. I also created wing skins with some 5lb stock for the lower wing and weighed out the skins sheets for the top wing. (Not joined yet.)
I cut the outboard fuse' side to shape from a sheet of the 6' wide iron balsa I got from the "new dealer". This will be one stiff fuse. I'm adding less than 2 oz. to the fuse for the skins and am pleased so far with this fuse construction technique. This is a very blocky and deep fuse, so could weigh in really heavy otherwise, especially since I have chosen to make it sort of sculpted, or curved a lot on the sides for more realism. Yeah, yeah, I know, realism for a profile Hinton? C'mon down to earth. Hey, gotta try it, right!?
It's getting a bit late, so no pics today, but as soon as I get a bit farther along I'll correct that.
I AM HAVING FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! #^ #^ #^ #^ y1 y1 y1 (PE**) BW@ CLP** o2oP
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Isn't that the most important thing, HAVING FUN?
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Sure nuff is, Doc! Your present project looks the same - fun! (Wouldn't be the top wing for a Ringmaster bipe, would it?)
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Thanks to Charles, I can now get these to post. He took my jpegs and showed me what values to use in scaling them down so the site would accept them THANKS CHARLES!!!!
Been able to work on the beast a bit. have the bottom wing ready for the tips, the top wing ready to plank, and the fuse skinned on the outboard side, ready to skin the inboard side. Here's some pics of the project so far.
I'm pleased with everything but the weight. I've used ALL 4-6 pound stuff except for the outboard fuse skin, but it just feels heavy.
I swiss cheesed the top wing as you'll see in the picture, that only dropped a quarter of an ounce from it. Phooey, I was hoping for double that.
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Top wing ready to plank.
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The fuse ready to skin the inboard with the outboard skin in place.
This shows the fat, stubby, fuse I like so well on this thing.
When I thought about the cowling being a separate color on the Navy's SBC's, I wanted some way for that to stand out, so I soaked a piece of 1/16th and molded it around the front of the fuse to try and accomplish that. I think it's going to work, so I'm happy with it for now. We'll see what it looks like with color.
I'll see if I can post two pics at a time here.
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Looking good!!!!
Marcus
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Thanks Marcus, and how is your current project coming along?
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Things are moving along here - both wings are planked and ready for the tips, but I think I'll make the connecting struts first. They aren't "N" type struts at the tips, and that makes it really a cinch to get the wings aligned properly incidence wise. (I would have had those made, but the weather today was rather mild so I spent time in the outer shop shaping a bass neck.)
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Will
It's, ups, they are coming along pretty well. Behind schedule, even when there's no schedule... LL~
Looking forward to seeing yours with some colors.
It's a cool build.
Marcus
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"Good" Will Hinton,
Alakazam!!
WOW! Like magic, how fast you're moving on this build. Super kudos! H^^
Ya know "Good," generally I don't get excited over builds, not even my own, but I gotta tell ya, this is EXCITING!!
In my case, it's the choice of the aircraft your modeling, a bi-plane, a Warbird, loads of color! Great!
You have my interest. To late to build two? ;D
Hey Good, psst, come a bit closer, I don't want anyone to hear this. Careful how you use the word "planking," I got in a bit of trouble with that, remember? LL~ LL~ LL~
Hey! I've got your back, when the time comes for lettering and graphics, as usual, so give it no concern. Colored vinyl or spray masks whatever it takes.
A Christmas "gift" when your ready. Also for being an exceptional modeler.
BTW. Nice photos.
Charles
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Will-
You mentioned the wing struts. My experience with the Stearman was that it tended to rock a bit in the roll axis because it is such a short distance from the fuselage to the struts. If you can "cheat" the struts out toward the tips a bit without exceeding your own sense of scale it might be worth doing.
Don
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Thanks Don, I guess, as Tom Neuber said, great minds think alike. Because of the leadout guide I planned on the struts being as close to the tips as possible. My successful bipe back in the 60's did the same thing you just talked about so this one will be out there, annnndd...they won't be angled between the wings either - straight up and down for simplicity and to be able to move the LO guides as needed without adding another dimension to the move. That's a section of the build where I have some trepidation for the LO placements in the end. I have the strut planned so I can change the initial offering for the guide once the right position is established through flying.
I really appreciate your help with this project, Don, because you have a lot of research behind you that I can use! Thanks much!
And merry Christmas, guys!!
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I made a little progress today, and I do mean a little. But, I was able to get the wings sanded and ready for the tips and make the main struts. I couldn't resist doing a trial fit of the wings and fuse, so here are a couple of teasers.
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8) 8) 8)
Marcus
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That is looking great, but where's the pilot? Just kidding as I don't do pilots either. LL~ LL~
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Doc, I spent a horrible amount of time online looking for a good profile picture of an early WWII pilot bust i could print out and glue to a piece of 1/16th ply backing so i could have the two pilots in it. No luck, now someone here will probably find me one and it's just too late. Drat.
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I don't do pilots ... I think of it as being about modeling airplanes.
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Will, I'm more and more intrigued! This should be an interesting plane to fly! Keep at it!
SK
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Thanks Serge, my time is once again my own after a busy weekend of basketball and church activities, so I plan to finish the wingtips and to mount the lower wing tomorrow unless I get tied up blowing snow all day. If that happens, then Tuesday if I can.
We're looking at the possibility of 8 - 10 inches by morning with zero temps. What in the world am I doing in northwest Ohio instead of the big island!?!?
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"Good" Will Hinton,
Hey! Hey!
Lookin good, really good.
Got the wings set at 0-0?
Couple of weekends and your Helldiver will look even gooder. Gooder?
Ya know, every time I go to the www.fcmodelers.com site, I cry.
Is that mormal for a believer? n~
Good will blessings!!
Charles
PS, Yes, I still have you covered.
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quote from Charles, "Ya know, every time I go to the www.fcmodelers.com site, I cry.
Is that normal for a believer?"
I sure hope so, means we're reachable. Thanks much for the compliments, I starting to wonder what I'll build next because this one is getting close! 'Course, I plan to really enjoy the painting of this ship because of the Navy's flamboyant color schemes from back then. I'll let ya know when I start that phase.
Blessings all,
Will
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Wingtips are all done, the snow is all plowed, and I'm finally getting to mount the fuse and the lower wing. If the epoxy will cure by supper time, I should be able to finalize the strut placement for the cabane struts yet today. When that's done, I'll build and mount the horizontal emppenage before the final mounting of the top wing.
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I had a good day today, no snow to plow, roads still too slick to leave town for anything, and the coffee machine going great guns.
I finished mounting the bottom wing and getting it properly glued in place and then finished sanding the top wing in readiness for the SLC. Yup, gonna try it. I've been doing a lot of experimenting on this ship, so now's a good time to try the SLC for a grain filler. I'll sand it with 600 yet tonight and maybe give it a coat of grey primer before bedtime.
One great advantage on this airplane is that I will use the primer for the main color. Fewer coats and less weight.
Gotta tell ya, I have a really hard time covering raw wood when it looks so gorgeous! All that balsa just setting there smiling in all its resplendent glory was hard to cover with anything, even clear SLC! I react the same way to walnut, maple, cherry, koa, bubinga .......you get the idea.
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The SLC for a filler is great. I'm not the world's greatest wingtip coverer, but it's fine as it is because I could sand the SLC smooth and remove the wrinkles that way. Put a coat of primer on it and am lovin' the look.
After an interruption for an overnight stay in the hospital for chest pains and a stress test plus a coupe days rest, I have the shop fever again and am going at it. Turns out the severe pains were from a hiatal hernia and not my heart. At least now I know.
Mounted the stab just before going to bed last night, all I have left before final assembly can be done is the cabane struts and rudder/vertical stab. I'm toying with the notion of doing all the painting without the top wing in place. That will more than likely be my approach.
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"Good"
Glad you're episode turned out OK.
Will your top wing be glued in place?
Thickness of your flaps?
That's not the rudder, correct? n~
Comming along!
Charles
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Thanks Charles. The flaps are quite blunt affairs at a 3/8 leading edge and 1/8 trailing edge. with a one inch cord.
The top wing will be glued with the struts being inserted into slots at the appropriate time which will make the alignment for incidence much easier than a bolt-on setup.
The blue incidence meter might work as a rudder, but would be sort of draggy, dontcha think? LL~ LL~ LL~
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If you wore binoculars for glasses, you would be able to see if you were flying level! I say use it! LL~ H^^
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Mr. Hinton,
Attached is a near version of a WWII pilot.
The head gear, jacket, and scarf are of that period.
The pilot is of the 1943 vintage.
You are welcome to use it as needed.
T Michael Jennings H^^
Knoxville, TN
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THANK YOU FOR THE PILOT!!!! I'll print this fellow out and have him on hand for future ships. I might even try to scheme out a way to get him into the canopy on this one, but it will be kind of hard to do. Let's see what my devious mind can do with this present ship.
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I just proved that visiting stunt hanger is a good practice!! The post concerning wing tip weight boxes jarred my memory that i have failed to install such a device in this plane!!! Stupid senior brain fade, anyway. HB~> HB~>
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This should be an improved image?
I'll send it to anybody that elects to print it.
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Thanks Charles,
You got it to me before I printed the other.
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Thanks for the pilots. I now a copy printed off and in my picture file.
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Is there a difference?
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Oh yeah....
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"Good" Will Hinton,
Are you slaking? ;D
I see no recent photos or updates of that magnificent SBC 3 Helldiver you're building? H^^
How can I offer "Kudos" which BTW is also "Wack-a-doo" in another language. n~
Hey! Did you see that Duster profile I posted? #^
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Not really slacking, just tending to other things getting in the way. Like my two grandsons basketball games. Wow, two different age level programs can tie ya up big time!
Also, I'm in the finishing process, so it's into the time consuming stage now with little to report until I start throwing primer. Finishing a bipe has become a different ball game for me as to which steps I do first, etc. Do I attach the top wing before spraying? Or not? How do I go about the hinging of the elevators in place, do I wait 'til they're finished and then mount to the horn as I always do with others? Doesn't look to me like that's the best way. At least not with this fellow. Do I.........??? But, I only have the top of the bottom wing to SLC yet and then I start spraying! THEN...pictures will be forthcoming!!
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Good,
I can only speak for myself.
I would attach the flaps then prime and paint.
I would attach the top wing after primer and paint.
But that's me.
What primer do you use? Rattle cans?
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Yes on the rattle cans, I found one that is the perfect shade for the gray I want as a base color. I have the top wing in color and ready for clear, will assemble the main struts before color and then mount the top wing after all is done but the clear, and might even clear coat the top wing before attachment. That's the only assembly decision I have yet to make. The elevators go on before primer, the flaps after primer and clear because of the design of the airframe. (I think.) :!
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I needed to take some time off from an important project that was wearing me down, so here's what I've done to relax a bit and then I can jump back into the other come tomorrow. (Monday.)
The top wing is just setting on the struts, I won't permanently mount it until I have prayed the clear for ease of doing that.
I've kept it rather simple, chose the scheme in my squadron/signal publications book on the SBC3 of VS-5 aboard the Yorktown. I wanted to copy the one Berkeley used in their kit, and Charles sent me the transfers for either one so I could make my decision whenever I got to that point. (I still have to apply the U.S. NAVY stickers yet)
I used a Sharpy to do the panel lines and rivets, this is just a fun project and those are fine for that. The next step is the clear, that will likely be a few weeks away. I think I'll try the poof can two part Jeff Traxler told me about so I don't have to clean my equipment out in the cold outer shop.
Here's some pics.
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Another.
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And one more.
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Neat model Will. Can we see how you did the center cabane struts?
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Ya sure can Wayne, as soon as I do them. I'm leaving those until I spray the clear on the bottom of the top wing and then mount it after that. My plan is for 1/8" ply at an angle and recessed into the bottom of the top wing and into the fuse outer layer of balsa to the doublers. For the top wing mount I'll make the struts an inch long where they fasten into the wing so I have plenty of glue surface there. (At least that's the plan.)
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Nice!!!!
Marcus
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Well, Brother Will! It's a wild subject for a stunter. I am really eager to see it finished and to get a flight report. ;D Good Luck with it!
BIG Bear
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Thanks Marcus & Bill, This week is a lost cause as far as available time, but the plan is to spray clear next and then final assembly. Can't wait to fly the beast, it has been an absolute blast to build!
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Thanks Marcus & Bill, This week is a lost cause as far as available time, but the plan is to spray clear next and then final assembly. Can't wait to fly the beast, it has been an absolute blast to build!
Good,
"Will" your clear be two part automotive? ;D
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Hi Charles,
Yes, it will. I really plan to try the two part rattle can Jeff Traxler discovered at his local auto paint store to see how well it works. Jeff said it's expensive, but during this time of year my outer shop does not heat all too well, and of course I have to shut the heat down while spraying. So, with the rattle can i won't have to suffer through cleaning my equipment while shivering profusely!
I'm contemplating starting a thread in the finishing section when I do this, but ya never know about how my twisted mind is working from day to day, I might just finish this thread with the finish. n~
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Good,
Why don't you take your model/parts to your local auto body shop and see what they will charge to spray just the two part clear?
They spray clear every day, or hope they do.
Heated booth, plenty of light, talented paint guy. You can't go wrong.
Worth the shot!
I'm trying to put my, incredable number of paint spraying years, behind me. A lifetime actually. ;D
I did exactly what I'm suggesting.
I just have to get a model ready.
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But I love to spray. I spray several custom guitars a year, can't take the time, effort, or expense of leaving here to do that when customers are waiting for their expensive instrument. So, if this rattle can works out, it will save me big time in time itself, which is a big money savings. Jeff says a can will do at least two guitars, and even if it won't, the customer pays the tariff and is a happy camper when they get their bright and shiny instrument.
I just am not comfortable experimenting on something I'm selling, so this plane will serve a good subject for me to find out.
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Phooey. I priced the rattle can two-part, waaaayyy too much cash! 30 bucks. Now, I have to wait out the weather. We just got eight more inches of heavy, wet snow on top of the 74 inches we already had received.
So what, you ask? Well, my spray shop is a mess right now and I'm not about to freeze my kiester off to clean it up enough to spray, let alone clean my spray equipment out there after i spray!
Man, I really want to get this sprayed with clear so I can mount the top wing and then attach the cabane struts.
HB~> HB~> :'( :'( :( '' ~^ HB~>
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Will that really looks impressive. I'd like to know how she flies. I'd like someday ( maybe in the next life since I don't have enough time in this one) to try to develop a real competitive bipe. In the mean time I hope I get to see yours fly sometime. Good luck!
Dave
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Thanks Dave, this will be my fourth bipe. My first one ever flew a fairly decent pattern, but my "refinement" of the design went in the wrong direction, so we'll see what happens here. Two of the others were built in the late 60's and the last one in '90.
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Ooohhh boy-oh-boy-oh boy! Close to 60 degrees yesterday and I sprayed the clear! Automotive two part. The beast is now setting in the shop with the incidence meter on it while the epoxy cures on the top wing mounts!! WHOOPEEEEEE!!!
Next I'll do the cabane struts and have some pictures for those who were wondering about the mounting. I've changed my mind, by the way, and you'll see the really simple method I plan to use. (What else would a simple guy do, for crying out loud but use a simple method?)
The reason I've changed my mind is the excellent strength of the top wing mounting using just the outer struts. Pictures soon, and even better - flight report maybe yet this month!!
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Good,
I know that feeling!
Ya gotta love it when a plane comes together.
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For Wayne and any others who are interested in the cabane strut installation, here are some pictures.
I have an Exacto handle I cut down a long time ago for just such a task. I marked off the locations I wanted for the struts, then roughly cut the angle of the strut insertion spot in both the wing and fuse'. Being a foam wing, this was a cinch for a good tight fit of the strut.
This is in picture number one.
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I repeated the cut at the fuse'.
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Then we trial fit, if it's fine, fill the mounting spots with epoxy and install the strut.
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Here's the front close up view of the installed strut.
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And a side view. I'm not crazy about the looks of the forward slant on the forward strut, but it's what the three views show, so there it is.
Once I get these all four in place I'll shoot some pics of the completed ship, but...tomorrow it's off to the Toledo show and shooooooppppppping!!! (Once we're done with our turn manning the NASA booth, that is.) Stop by and visit!!
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Good,
Really nice tight photos, thanks for that.
OK, so the struts are cosmetic, correct?
You need to post a few good photos of your insignias, oops, I mean a full photo of the model.
Excellent work!
Charles
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Yes, they are strictly cosmetic. The top wing has a full depth CF spar plus 1/16th planking, so is plenty strong without them.
I'll post full pics as soon as i get some more epoxy today and mount the flaps, build the CF pushrods and get them in place, and have it actually DONE!!!! #^ #^ #^
The transfers you sent turned out really nice, a great way to apply lettering, etc.
Weight at this point is 54 ounces, I don't expect more than a couple more. With a wing area of around 650 - 660, that ain't too bad.
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OK, Brother Will,
A while ago you mentioned you weren't sure of what to do once you got this one finished. No problem! A modernized version of your F-9 at about 660-670 sq. in. using all the tricks that have come about in the last 20 (or so) years since the published one. You could make a super competitive, updated version with modern power! It needs to be done!
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
P.S. Great job on the Helldiver!
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Thanks Brother Bill.
Do a search for F9F and you'll find my super zoot Panther. It turned out pretty good, but just pulled too hard for my scrawny wrist to fly comfortably. Will be modified by Jeff Traxler for electric.
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Thanks for the pics Will. y1
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You're welcome Wayne. The Toledo show is now history, so I should get the final touches done on this beast, including plumbing the tank and finishing the cabanes plus pushrods. Then it's just a matter of waiting out the northwest Ohio winds so I can test fly it!
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Okay, it...is...DONE! I even have a set of lines finished for it and only await calmer winds/energy!
here's some pics.
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Another
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Another
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One more
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And the last.
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AAAAWWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSOOOOOOOMMMMMMEEEEEEEE!
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Oh......my gosh!
He went and did it, another model completed. No, I won't say kudos. "Wack-a-doo" means the same thing.
Anyway, great looking model, busy as can be with wings, color and detail!! A canopy to die for, to boot.
Outstanding!
Really hard to believe you use aerosol cans, but I'm following your moves, including the clear coat.
Rattle can Rusty, what do you think? Cans get it done!!
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Thanks guys. I forgot to mention the vinyl transfers came from Charles. They went on great, look fantastic.
I'm especially pleased with the canopy, Charles - my first attempt at making my own using the plastic bottle and the advice from this forum! Stunthanger rocks!
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Cool airplane Will, looks like you'll have enough fuel on board to fly across the ocean! ;D
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Video please??
It looks great!!
Marcus
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I know where you're coming from, Wayne, but it was a tank I had in the drawer and I didn't feel like waiting for another to come in the mail! Shucks, maybe if it flies the pattern okay I'll just leave it full and do two patterns at a time! LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
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Thanks Ty, the accuracy of the colors must be credited to your help. The canopy is my first to do using the plastic bottle/heatgun/balsa mold technique. Wow, does that ever work nice! The framework on the canopy is made with guitar plastic binding strips that were heat formed using the Monocote gun as well. It really wasn't as much work as it looks like it would be thanks to the guys on here sharing their knowledge.
The winds are slacking off here - soon!
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Will,
Beautiful airplane! I have two questions.
1. Is the bellcrank mount simply epoxied to inboard side or does it pass through from outboard to inboard?
2. How does it fly?
Thanks,
Jim
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Thanks a bunch, Jim. The bellcrank mount is V shaped and is imbedded past the motor mount beams with a 1/8 piano wire keeper that goes through the bottom beam, on through the ply mounts and then on up through the top beam. (Aint a goin' nowhere.)
I'm the guy who, if a carpenter tells me to use three 8 penny nails to hold something, I use ten!
As to how it flies? Weeeeelll...errr, uuh, I haven't flipped a bloody prop on anything this season so far! I'm not sure what it is, but the desire to go out has totally left me at this time. I fly alone most of the time, Jeff Traxler is an hour away, so that means two hours on the road to go fly with him, and I've just let me get too involved in other activities to do that so far.
I WILL fly the beast yet this year, Lord willing, and promise to post it here when I do. I also have a new semi-scale stunter of my old Pawnee to fly for its first flight! (Lazy old goat that I am!) HB~>
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Thank you!