Author Topic: Scratch building a Shark 15 (Read 18309 times)

Jim Carter · « **Reply #50 on:** January 10, 2018, 01:15:32 PM »

Wow! That's really neat. I applaud your innovation. I hope you don't mind but I'd like to "steal" your idea and make one of those for me

Mark Mc · « **Reply #51 on:** January 10, 2018, 04:27:45 PM »

That tool is great. But I'm just not that ambitious. To do tanks, what I did was run down to Harbor Freight and buy a set of these Hand Seamer pliers:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-hand-seamer-66654.html

They work great for me. And I didn't have to make anything myself. I suppose if 3" is too wide, you could always cut them down to whatever size you want with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw.

Mark

Larry Renger · « **Reply #52 on:** January 11, 2018, 11:49:05 PM »

Very nice how to. THANKS!

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #53 on:** January 12, 2018, 08:26:05 AM »

Quote from: Jim Carter on January 10, 2018, 01:15:32 PM

Wow! That's really neat. I applaud your innovation. I hope you don't mind but I'd like to "steal" your idea and make one of those for me

Hello Jim
I don`t mind, go ahead and "steal" the idea I try to post good pictures so if anyone wants to make a copy or make a better one can do so. I made it many years back and it has helped a lot. You can make the jaws to suit the bend you want. I mostly do tanks for .40 size planes so one side of the tool is to do a one inch bend. I cut slots on one side for other size of bends and left one side untouched for long bends.
Juan

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #54 on:** January 19, 2018, 04:50:11 PM »

Quote from: Jim Carter on January 10, 2018, 01:15:32 PM

Wow! That's really neat. I applaud your innovation. I hope you don't mind but I'd like to "steal" your idea and make one of those for me

Hello Jim
Here is a rough drawing of the bending tool and some photos ,hope it helps.
Juan

Target · « **Reply #55 on:** January 20, 2018, 10:47:06 AM »

So, that is fuel tubing inside acting as a spring to hold the sides apart when loosened?

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #56 on:** January 20, 2018, 04:11:06 PM »

Yes, The tool only needs to open more than .010 of an inch and the silicone is easily compressed by the screws when clamping the tin or brass.
juan

Scott Richlen · « **Reply #57 on:** January 25, 2018, 06:32:36 AM »

Juan:

I hope you will be able to finish your Shark 15 soon. I built one many years ago from the kit and really liked it. I'm sure a scratch built will be a great flyer!

Loved your jig for sanding the leading edge. I'm going to make one.

You get a blue ribbon for building skills!

Scott

C.T. Schaefer · « **Reply #58 on:** January 25, 2018, 11:41:13 AM »

Just for reference I built a Shark .15 from Walters kit. Got some testing done before the freeze hit. It weighs 16 oz. with a Fox .15x. No flaps. Plenty of power. Flown on .012x 58 lines. Looking forward to warmer weather!! Wish I could post a picture but I am still working with 20th century tech. TS

Paul Smith · « **Reply #59 on:** January 26, 2018, 12:01:12 PM »

Quote from: Mark Mc on January 10, 2018, 04:27:45 PM

That tool is great. But I'm just not that ambitious. To do tanks, what I did was run down to Harbor Freight and buy a set of these Hand Seamer pliers:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-hand-seamer-66654.html

Vice Grip also offers a tool like that.

They work great for me. And I didn't have to make anything myself. I suppose if 3" is too wide, you could always cut them down to whatever size you want with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw.

Mark

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #60 on:** January 28, 2018, 11:03:16 AM »

Well I`m back at work on the Shark 15. I decided to do a no dope finish on it. I`m using Z-poxy to fill the pores in the wood. I mix a small amount of Z-poxy in a piece of cardboard and using a small brush I paint the surface a small section at a time then using paper towel I remove what`s on the surface just leaving what the wood absorbs. I only mix a small amount to have it flow better and avoid having the epoxy dry on me while I`m painting. I painted one side of the fuse and let it dry before tackling the other side. In the engine compartment I just painted and left it like that. I do this in a well lit area and I look and make sure I don`t have any shinny spots in the wood. I`m doing the fuse,elevators and flaps this way. I haven`t glued the wing to the fuse as I`m going to cover it with SLC. I want to work on the fuse and when I`m ready for color I will join everything together. This is my first coat I will be applying silkspan next. Here is a pic.
Juan

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #61 on:** January 28, 2018, 12:27:08 PM »

Quote from: Scott Richlen on January 25, 2018, 06:32:36 AM

Juan:

I hope you will be able to finish your Shark 15 soon. I built one many years ago from the kit and really liked it. I'm sure a scratch built will be a great flyer!

Loved your jig for sanding the leading edge. I'm going to make one.

You get a blue ribbon for building skills!

Scott

Hello Scott
I`m glad you liked it, doing the sanding form for the leading edge I can make the leading edge symmetrical and my planes fly better.
juan

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #62 on:** January 28, 2018, 12:30:57 PM »

Quote from: C.T. Schaefer on January 25, 2018, 11:41:13 AM

Just for reference I built a Shark .15 from Walters kit. Got some testing done before the freeze hit. It weighs 16 oz. with a Fox .15x. No flaps. Plenty of power. Flown on .012x 58 lines. Looking forward to warmer weather!! Wish I could post a picture but I am still working with 20th century tech. TS

Hello C.T.
Thanks for the information. I don`t think mine is coming out that light,I`m going with a veco .19.
Juan

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #63 on:** January 29, 2018, 03:52:36 PM »

I was doing some light sanding of the first coat of z poxy and decided to install the engine in the fuse. I was planning on leaving the nose square as it came out but I changed my mind and decided to fair in the spinner. Here is how it came out.
Juan

Scott Richlen · « **Reply #64 on:** January 29, 2018, 04:26:31 PM »

Very clean! Where did you find a transparent cone?

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #65 on:** January 29, 2018, 06:07:44 PM »

Hello Scott
The spinner is a Great planes E-Spinner 1-1/2" Black w/Alum Backplate. I bought it because is light and I don`t use electric starters , I`m planning on painting it black . I got mine at my local hobby shop. You can get it from Tower Hobbies the item number is LXRAZ0 and the price is $7.99. I was planning on using a Veco 1.5" that I have but this one is lighter. If the plane comes out tail heavy I will use the veco. On my mustang I have one that is not an electric spinner but is a great planes spinner I bought and painted it white with dupli color, I even painted the edge of the aluminum backplate white then I cleared with polyurethane. here is a pic.
Juan

Scott Richlen · « **Reply #66 on:** January 30, 2018, 06:21:06 PM »

here's a Shark 15 on the bay....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jetco-Shark-15-Stunt-Trainer-Control-Line-Model-Airplane-Kit/372207529939?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3Dfad70745309b4e568f3202229890ab59%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D282827280857%26itm%3D372207529939&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #67 on:** February 20, 2018, 07:35:56 PM »

Progress report, I worked on the little shark some more. After sanding the first coat of z poxy y applied silkspan with z poxy to the fuse and tail also the flaps and elevators. I used a brush and painted thru the dry silkspan, I did one side of the surfaces at a time and I used playing cards to squeege the excess z poxy from the area I covered. I give the z poxy a day or two and when everything was dry I hit everything with 220 grit sandpaper using the light of the sun to see the low spots and areas that needed more sanding being careful not to go all the way to the wood. I sanded my fuse before gluing it to the wing. I reinforced the center section of the wing and proceeded to cover the wing with SLC. At this time the weight of the plane without the elevator pushrod,tank, engine and landing gear is 8.4 oz. My engine weights 6.43 oz which totals 14.83 oz. If I go all the way to 20oz total whic I will be trying not to the wing loading would be about 10oz sq.ft. I will be priming the fuse and wings with Transtar 4633 white primer. I like it because is not hard to sand and is formulated to be used on flexible substrates. I have not been using it long but I used in the SLC covered wings of my P-51D profile and it worked good. well I used it in the whole plane. here are some pics.
Juan

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #68 on:** February 22, 2018, 02:11:33 PM »

I sprayed the transtar primer on the Little Shark today and will let it sit for a few days to thoroughly dry. I will be checking the wing for little details that are hard to see when you cover with SLC because is clear. Later on I will do the fuse and tail sanding first to remove as much of the primer as I can while not going all the way to the wood. If I have to do a touch up I will do it then. The wings will be next sanding again as much as I can being careful not to sand the SLC on top of the ribs. Here are the pics.

with the primer coat it gained .84 oz now weights 9.24oz
Juan

Avaiojet · « **Reply #69 on:** February 22, 2018, 02:40:58 PM »

Juan,

Nice as expected.

I've stepped up to a white primer also and glad I did.

Charles

john e. holliday · « **Reply #70 on:** February 22, 2018, 02:57:19 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on February 22, 2018, 02:40:58 PM

Juan,

Nice as expected.

I've stepped up to a white primer also and glad I did.

Charles

What would you charge the old DOC for a graphic of the Brazillion flag about 4 inches long to put on a couple of my planes and maybe a US flag of same size?

Forgive me for using this thread to ask and this Shark 15 is looking great.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #71 on:** February 24, 2018, 04:33:44 PM »

Does that primer go over raw wood, or did you seal with dope first?

Also, what did you use to prep the SLC or does the primer stick to it as applied?

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #72 on:** February 24, 2018, 07:32:07 PM »

Hello Larry
This is a no dope finish. I have a hard time getting dope from the US due to having to pay very costly hazmat shipping. Last time I tried I was asked to pay $175.00 for two quart cans of nontautening dope. I`m using Z-poxy laminating resin on this Model. I wrote this on my Jan 28,2018 post in this thread : Well I`m back at work on the Shark 15. I decided to do a no dope finish on it. I`m using Z-poxy to fill the pores in the wood. I mix a small amount of Z-poxy in a piece of cardboard and using a small brush I paint the surface a small section at a time then using paper towel I remove what`s on the surface just leaving what the wood absorbs. I only mix a small amount to have it flow better and avoid having the epoxy dry on me while I`m painting. I painted one side of the fuse and let it dry before tackling the other side. In the engine compartment I just painted and left it like that. I do this in a well lit area and I look and make sure I don`t have any shinny spots in the wood. I`m doing the fuse,elevators and flaps this way. I haven`t glued the wing to the fuse as I`m going to cover it with SLC. I want to work on the fuse and when I`m ready for color I will join everything together. This is my first coat I will be applying silkspan next.
When I applied the silkspan I did it dry with z-poxy and I used plying cards to squeege the excess resin from the plane.
On the SLC I lightly scuffed the shinny side with scotchbrite before applying it to the wing then I primed with Transtar 4633 white primer I sanded the plane with 400 grit and I`m getting close to start painting. The primer sand easy dry,it powders like dope and talcum powder, well at least it looks that way to me. the transtar primer cost $10.00 Locally. I even primed the plastic spinner I`m using with it.
juan

Larry Renger · « **Reply #73 on:** February 25, 2018, 09:14:19 AM »

Thanks for the info. Especially the idea of scuffing the SLC before covering!

Avaiojet · « **Reply #74 on:** February 25, 2018, 11:12:49 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on February 22, 2018, 02:57:19 PM

What would you charge the old DOC for a graphic of the Brazillion flag about 4 inches long to put on a couple of my planes and maybe a US flag of same size?

Forgive me for using this thread to ask and this Shark 15 is looking great.

Doc,

You can buy flags on line of all sizes and nations for pennies.

Peel n stick and decent quality.

I cannot compete with the flag pricing on line. Get the stuff in a few days.

Try that first.

CB

john e. holliday · « **Reply #75 on:** February 25, 2018, 01:24:05 PM »

Thanks Charles I will look.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #76 on:** February 25, 2018, 10:27:34 PM »

I hate to be an itch, but what are you covering with silkspan? Are you sealing the wood parts or doing SLC over silkspan on the wings?

This is such an interesting thread, I want to understand each step.

Juan Valentin · « **Reply #77 on:** February 26, 2018, 03:47:22 PM »

Hello Larry
I painted the fuse with Z-Poxy using small batches of it doing one side at a time the I would squeege the excess leaving only what went into the grain, then I sanded the fuse and covered it with silkspan dry using Z-Poxy again and scrapping all the excess resin with playing cards.
The wings I covered with SLC but I din`t cover them with silkspan I used the transtar primer over the plastic. I think that the plastic covering is good enough and If I have to do a repair it would be easy to peel it off and recover again. of course I will have to paint the area again. I have been sanding the primer and feel I should sand a little more.here are some pics.
Juan