I am using a kit to build my next plane. I am using the parts as templets, tracing around them and then using my  Xacto knife with 11 blade to cut them out. Slow process. Is this the preferred way of doing this? This is my first scratch build so I am open to any and all suggestions. Tim

 Why not just build the kit?

I did all this with just an Xacto knife.  That's three full Skyray 35 kits.






Mark

I would try and find a rib set if it's a kit that someone is re producing. For straight wings, like the Twister, I spray glue rib blanks into a pile and glue a paper template on the top and band saw the stack and finish the stack with the disc sander. Tapered wing ribs are done the same only two in a stack.

I have cloned several kits during my model building years and still do.   Yes I make templates of the ribs(tip and root) in case I want to do another one.   This way wood can be replaced that is too heavy or too light.   Nothing like clumsy fingers and thumb going through the sheeting while sanding.  Don't forget to post pictures.

It’s really ok Fred. I have all the ribs cut now using new wood. This weekend I am hoping to have the rest cut out of new wood. I am saving the kit. I like all the ideas for templets and stacking though! Perry do you remember that wing we flew a couple weeks ago? That was a Sneeker and I have decided to build one since that one is so old. I flew 1/2a’s as a child and have just returned to C/L recently. So far I have a Sneeker that was given to me, a ARF Ringmaster, a Twister that I built and now scratch building this Sneeker so I appreciate all the advice I can get. Thanks to everyone, Tim

I did all this with just an Xacto knife.  That's three full Skyray 35 kits.






Mark

Wow you are one brave and determined soul. And you still have all your fingers? 

Without a sandpaper fix, everything I cut looks like I used a chain saw.

I even have to clean up plywood I cut with sandpaper.

CB

Attached freshly taken pictures of a method I've used for decades for constant chord projects. The templates were in a baggie hanging on the pegboard in the shop, and are for a deBolt Livewire "Rebel" 1950's R/C model I built for my brother for Christmas one year.

The templates are 1/32" birch plywood. Pins are pushed through to make tight holes (needle nose pliers!), and then fresh pins are bent 90 deg. and then some zigs and zags bent to make a mechanical flange sorta, secured with either epoxy or baking soda & CA. These ribs were cut out using a single edge GEM blade and a #11 Xacto blade where absolutely required. And I resharpen #11 blades multiple times. If I need to undercut for center sheeting, I would cut all the ribs the same, and then undercut just the few required by hand. Believe it or not, cutting ribs this way...if you're careful...you generally won't need to sand them at all...certainly not if you add cap strips. If you need to sand them, you're not doing it right, or not holding the GEM blade at 90 degrees. Be sure you mark the ribs so that you know which side is which...helps prevent warps if there is a slight difference top to bottom...and there will be. I like to put a mark in the bottom of one of the spar notches with a ballpoint or Sharpie.

I use a slab of crappy old 1/2" balsa for a cutting board to support the ribs and accept the locating pins. The pins keep everything firm while cutting, one rib at a time. This method allows fitting ribs onto the sheet balsa as economically as possible, while keeping the grain as straight as possible. Looking at the picture of the top side of the templates, you'll see that I added a spruce brace across the top of the spar notch on the wing rib template. That wasn't possible with the stabilizer ribs. All these ribs were cut from 3/32" balsa about 8 lb./cu.ft.

For stunt/combat ribs, I'd suggest putting a rough hole where you want the leadout holes to be...then use a 3/8" hardwood dowel with some 320 grit sandpaper...about 1.5" wide, rolled around and glued on at the tip. Use this like a violin bow from the tip end to sand out the leadout holes the way you want them...it's a lot easier and faster than you'd expect. Do it before you glue the wingtip on. You don't have to open up the outboard wing ribs, but may want to make them a little neater...or not!

And yes, I've used the stacking method for both tapered and constant chord ribs. It works fine, but wastes more balsa.  Steve

Tim, remind me to give you a good whack on the right shoulder next time we cross paths!  Steve