stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: John KruziK on October 31, 2009, 07:09:49 PM
-
What type, or brand of glue is sandable when dry. Like for a cowl where multiple layers are bonded. Thanks John
-
I use Sig Sigment cement, or Duco cement. Both sand quite well. I build a lot of fuselage tops using the planking method, where 1/4" strips a glued together to form the top of the fuse over formers. I use 1/8" thick strips, and when sanded the joints disappear.
-
Most any kind of yellow (not white) woodworker's glue. Elmer's makes some, as well as Titebond, and many other brands.
-
Instrument makers glue!
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?NameProdHeader=Instrument+makers+glue
W.
-
Most any kind of yellow (not white) woodworker's glue. Elmer's makes some, as well as Titebond, and many other brands.
Don't, it is a mistake. Any glue can be sanded. The issue is that if the glue is harder than the balsa, balsa will be removed on either side of the joint faster than the glue. Ambroid is excellent, an old standard that still works well to day. Not for internal joints, but for external joints that will be part of the finishing process.
-
Don't, it is a mistake. Any glue can be sanded. The issue is that if the glue is harder than the balsa, balsa will be removed on either side of the joint faster than the glue. Ambroid is excellent, an old standard that still works well to day. Not for internal joints, but for external joints that will be part of the finishing process.
Well, "any glue"can NOT be sanded...if you ever tried white Elmer's, it sort of softens from the friction and starts balling up, on the paper and on the joint. I've been using yellow woodworkers' glue for several years for just about all my building. An occasional epoxy joint, GOOP for canopies/etc., otherwise nothing else, internal and external alike. I find no problems sanding/finishing it.
On the other hand, my finishes are not exactly what you'd call "front row"!--or even respectable by most modelers' standards: Minimal sanding, shrinky-dink the wings, a coat or 2 of primer on the fuse and tail, maybe 2 coats of color (maybe not), a little clear topcoat if it doesn't look shiny enough, and go fly! So I suppose if you're looking for a really good finish you shouldn't do as I do...
-
So I suppose if you're looking for a really good finish you shouldn't do as I do...
Yeah.
-
Glad you agree.
-
We're just being honest.
-
Painfully.
-
One trick that works well for sanding across glue lines is to use a wood rasp. You can get them in various grades of coarse. The rasp doesn't flex at all, so it cuts the glue(as long as it isn't rubbery like white glue) the same as it cuts the wood. It will even cut hard spots or glue lines down to foam without undercutting on either side.
-
Thanks any sourse for rasps? Local hobby shop deals in ARFs only. John
-
A good, old-fashioned hardware store, tool supply, wood working supply store(expensive), or online.