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Author Topic: Rod sanding guides.  (Read 1692 times)

Offline Peter Nevai

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Rod sanding guides.
« on: July 28, 2011, 12:41:40 PM »
Sanding even and equal tapers in stuff like flaps and elevators is made easy by using metal rods of Proper thickness at the leading and the trailing edges of these parts. What is not so easy is keeping this conglomeration of items from moving around all over the place. In my situation it's like balancing a ball bearing on plate glass. Which by the way the building surface I have (a large Mirror).

The rods want to wander away from the part being sanded and the part being sanded slides to a fro with the motion of the sanding block. Another of those "I wish I had 4 hands deals"

Anyone got any ideas on how to stabilize this stuff short of gluing the whole mess to the glass with epoxy?

Or ditch the attempts of using the flat glass surface and take my chances by using a wood plank and some nails to hold at least the rods in place.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2011, 02:29:13 PM by Peter Nevai »
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Offline Bootlegger

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2011, 01:20:40 PM »
  I have an old drafting board that I use, and I wood screw the l/e piece down, then use push pins to hold the t/e, after sanding that thickness I turn the flap/stab or what ever I am sanding over and go to a smaller rod on the trailing edeg.
  Hope that this helps... H^^
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Offline Don Hutchinson AMA5402

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2011, 01:34:12 PM »
Get square key stock at the local builders supply and tack it down with ca.
Don

Offline Wynn Robins

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2011, 02:44:26 PM »
Get square key stock at the local builders supply and tack it down with ca.
Don
YEP - you can also tack down the rods with CA too.....
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Offline Peter Nevai

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2011, 02:49:56 PM »
YEP - you can also tack down the rods with CA too.....

Hmm thought I was making a wisecrack about gluing the rods down.. Never thought CA. Now theres a Plan! Thanks!
Words Spoken by the first human to set foot on Mars... "Now What?"

Offline John Cralley

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2011, 06:03:26 PM »
Apply strips of sandpaper with rubber cement to the mirror and this will minimize the sliding around of the piece you are trying to sand. The sandpaper will pull off and the cement residue can easily be cleaned by rubbing. Other adhesives could be used (might be hard to remove) or adhesive backed sandpaper could also be used.
John Cralley
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Offline Mark Scarborough

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2011, 06:57:34 PM »
I CA scap balsa blocks outside the rods to keep them from moving. I dont like to glue my "jig" rods because of the annoying residue. the balsa is pretty easy to razor blade off
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Offline wwwarbird

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2011, 11:24:57 PM »
 I perform this operation on my glass top workbench. This process goes a lot quicker than it sounds here...

 (1) Clean the glass so it's nice and smooth.

 (2) Put down a layer of 2" blue painters tape on the glass with the centerline of the tape roughly where the rods will be.

 (3) Lay the part to be sanded on top of the blue tape.

 (4) Place the desired thickness (music wire) rods in place along the edges of the part to be sanded. (I pre-cut the rods to extend past the ends of the part to be sanded on each end by a little bit.)

 (5) Tape the ends of the rods down to hold them in place temporarily.

 (6) Lift the part to be sanded out of the way and then CA the rods to the blue tape and wipe away any excess.

 (7) Lay the part back down between the rods and do your sanding as desired.

 When you are done you may end up sacrificing a bit of wire but you can peel the tape and everything away from your benchtop fairly easily.
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Wayne Willey
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Offline Allan Perret

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Re: Rod sanding guides.
« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2011, 06:51:31 AM »
Hot glue gun is also a good option for temporary gluing to work surface.
Allan Perret
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Slidell, Louisiana


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