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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: mark eisenhut on October 06, 2006, 08:34:22 AM
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how do you remove little air bubbles from decals? the decals are over monokote. it looked great last night ! now there are a lot of bubbles. any help is welcome
thank you
mark eisenhut
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I've had the same problem. I tried several methods, heat, etc., but they didn't work. I finally tried pricking each bubble with a very fine needle and pressing it down with my finger. Slow and tedious, but it works. Someone out there may have a better idea. Glen
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To keep from having bubbles ,mix a weak solution of soap and water and float the decal in place ,utilize a squeegee
to work the water out from under the decal and allow to dry,
This works for both water decals and vinyl sticky backed material.
Busby
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Or buy decal solvent at a model RR shop. This is what allows decals to snuggle down around individual rivet heads on very small models. Good stuff. Tom H
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i used the warm soapy water and squeegee method they looked great last night. with the solvent how do you apply it.
thank you
mark eisenhut
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Order the solvent (and decal paper if you want to print your own) from www.Micro-mark.com Directions come with the stuff.
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Re-read Tom H and Ralph W posts!
A bottle of solva-set or similar decal setting solution is tailored specifically to what we need to lay a decal down tight and clean. These solutions are available wherever the plastic display models are at all popular.
The procedure is spelled out on the package and the bottle. Do it that way and a closely trimmed decal has less 'raised edge' than a well-masked color line.
(Doing my own ink-jet decals, and for a few others, for over 5 years now.)
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Hi Mark,
All good input. I use a promo plastic credit card with the edges smoothed just a tad to keep from cutting the decal accidentally. Since it has rounded corners and two lengths of straight edges I found I can work those *%# areas with no problems. BTW being prepared before you lay them decals on also is good planing as I start smoothing from the center of the decal as soon as it is in place. I now plan to check out that decal stuff in the plastic model section and maybe it will be the solution to cardiac palpation j1 Thanks Ralph
Marv
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I've been using Solva Set since the late '60s-early '70s. It was brought out to help Rail Road modelers to get decals to snuggle down on their cars and such where the raised lines and bolts got in the way. The Solva Set softens the decal so that it will conform to the surface it is applied to. A smoooooth glossy finish is necessary to prevent "silvering" of the decals and a flatr coat is then applied if needed.
Micro Scale makes a two part system using a "setting" and a "solvent", Micro Set and Micro Sol. The setting solution is applied before the decal, and the solvent is applied once it is down.
Solva Set and Mr. Mark's Softner (Tamiya) are the two strongest solvents on the market.
Bill <><
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thanks everyone for all the input ill have to give it a try.
thank you
mark eisenhut
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Well I may be a little late in giving a suggestion on removing bubbles (sorry about that) but to minimize them when adding pretty much any peel and stick types to an iron on covering I pop a bunch of pin holes into the covering yes you read that right. Carefully do this about a quarter of an inch or so from the edge of the sticker.
You can still do all the above mention ways with the solvents/liquids and the best part is that there are now escape holes. Try it you just may like it. y1