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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Steve Schoenecker on February 17, 2017, 01:18:41 PM
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I am still working on my stunt trainer... (with foam wing) I ordered some CF pushrods... I also ordered some rh and LH thread ends... I didn't stop to think that I would need to get LH thread ball link or clevis or something for that end.. Anybody using pushrods with RH and LH ends? where do you get the LH hardware? I email Tom Morris to ask.. haven't heard from him yet...
seems like a great idea to just turn the pushrod to adjust. then tighten lock nut... I made an adjustable leadout rig like I saw on Tim Wescott's thread... His posts have some really great ideas.
Thanks
steve
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Ball links are molded and dont have threads as such in them. You "make" the threads when you put it on the threaded coupler so the ball links are universal (sic)
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Erick Rule of RSM Distribution has just added a line of left and right threaded pushrod ends to his line of products.
http://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm
Also, you can use the tie rods from the RC car counter. You only need to cut the thing to get the left and right threaded pieces to put into your pushrods. As suggested by Mark, the ball link ends make their own threads. Also, many in the CLPA community would suggest to stay away from clevises anyway.
Keith
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Erick Rule of RSM Distribution has just added a line of left and right threaded pushrod ends to his line of products.
http://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm
Also, you can use the tie rods from the RC car counter. You only need to cut the thing to get the left and right threaded pieces to put into your pushrods. As suggested by Mark, the ball link ends make their own threads. Also, many in the CLPA community would suggest to stay away from clevises anyway.
Keith
Just curious but what's the reason to stay away from clevises?
Chris
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Ball Links are pretty much bullet proof, a clevis will eventually fail. There is more force on control surfaces of a control line stunt plane than an RC plane, so I've heard.
Don
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Also, you can use the tie rods from the RC car counter. You only need to cut the thing to get the left and right threaded pieces to put into your pushrods.
Keith
Hey Kieth, you got a picture of this item, or Manufacture & p/n ?
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Hey Kieth, you got a picture of this item, or Manufacture & p/n ?
Almost all of the manufacturers for RC cars provide tie rods in different lengths. You can get them made from steel or titanium. Associated lists several. One of them is at
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/25381-ASC25381-ft_titanium_steering_turnbuckle_4_5_16_in/
Traxxas is another at
https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6057
I like these because they are larger diameter with a larger and finer thread than the normal 4-40 threads used on the couplers normally used for our toy airplanes. And the ball link ends from those RC car counters are larger and heavier duty to match those tie rods. I have used some variation of these at the end of carbon pushrods on my stunt ships without any failure or problem for over 20 years. On those RC cars and trucks, these things are stressed much more than what will ever be experienced on our CLPA models and I am wary of 4-40 couplers. I had a brass 4-40 coupler fail once.
I do take care to make sure these tie rod ends are securely fastened to the pushrod ends. JB Weld is a must. I sometimes put a 1/16" pin though the pushrod and tie rod, then wrap it with carbon tow or an Aluminum band secured with JB Weld. (It is a real trick to drill a 1/16" hole through the diameter of those titanium rods - usually destroy one bit for each hole.)
Keith
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Thanks for the info.. I did not know that the ball links are not threaded... I have ordered some. I did buy some of the good kelvises with clips... I may try ball links at both ends this time. This is also a trainer for trimming etc too
I'll be posting some of my progress in my thread about building with foam cores...
thanks again
steve
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I like these because they are larger diameter with a larger and finer thread than the normal 4-40 threads used on the couplers normally used for our toy airplanes. And the ball link ends from those RC car counters are larger and heavier duty to match those tie rods. Keith
So the larger ball links that match these tierods, what hole size does the ball have, for the mounting to bellcrank and control horn ? Hoping its still a # 4 size hole ??
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I've that I should wrap the ends of the carbon fiber pushrods with thread and super glue. Any thread.... Or something special?
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Steve, it's best to wrap the pushrod ends with something to prevent splitting. I don't know about other products but I use carbon tubes from Tom Morris.
My first attempt at binding was not pretty and I was pleased that it was inside a box fuselage. Subsequently, I found a K&S thinwall aluminium tube that is a neat slide fit on the tube OD. Slide the aluminium tube—about 3/4" long—onto the carbon tube, smear the end of the carbon tube with epoxy and slide the aluminium tube into place at the end. Wipe off excess epoxy with iso propyl alcohol.
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I've that I should wrap the ends of the carbon fiber pushrods with thread and super glue. Any thread.... Or something special?
I've used dacron, sewing thread and Kevlar with CA. Have had no failures.
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That's right, Allan, the through-hole in the ball is for a #4 screw. At least all the ones I have used are.
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Also, if it's the right size, I like to thread the hole through the horn with a 4-40 tap. Then I put a Nyloc nut behind it.
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Same here. Its like double nuts on a screw.
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Same here. Its like double nuts on a screw.
Hey Doc,
With you and many of the other guys' tutelage, I've come a long way since I first showed up here. Thank you for that.
Rusty