Building Tips and technical articles. > Building techniques

PIPE MOUNTING

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Greg L Bahrman:
I have never built a piped ship and I am thinking of doing so. I would like to see some pictures and advice on the proper way to mount a pipe. And what are to pitfalls to watch out for. Thanks

Jim Oliver:
Hi Greg,

My only pipe experience is with RC Pattern models--larger than typical CL stunt, but similiar problems. 

Use the shortest practical silicone coupler--prone to heat damage, especially from 4 strokes and very heavy.

Allow the pipe to "float"--that is, don't hard mount it to the fuse.  Hard mount transmits noise/vibration to the fuse and creates a stress point.

Especially if using a carbon pipe, to avoid wear/chafing of the pipe, use something softer than the pipe material to secure the pipe to the fuse.

Some carbon pipes are of very light construction (delicate), if you use a zip tie around the pipe be careful to apply it at the point of the internal baffle.  It is possible to crush the pipe if the zip tie is tightened very tight at a location on the pipe where there is no internal support.

Dave Brown makes pipe mounts for two diameters of pipes.  However, I usually suspend my pipes from rubber O rings or fuel line.  I have used a couple of small screws, one on each side of the pipe tunnel, with an O ring looped around the screws and the pipe suspended in the loop of the O ring; sort of like lying "across" a hammock, rather than  along the length of it.  The O ring can be twisted a couple of turns to control tension of the O ring, if the O ring is a little long.

I will try to get a couple of pictures later today.

Jim

Randy Powell:
I use a Dave Brown pipe mount. Just bolted to a blind nut though a small piece of plywood.

Greg L Bahrman:

--- Quote from: Randy on November 08, 2006, 09:33:18 AM ---I use a Dave Brown pipe mount. Just bolted to a blind nut though a small piece of plywood.

--- End quote ---

Where is it located ? Just one mount towards the end of the pipe?

dirty dan:
Greg,

Well, two mounting points, as one end is pretty firmly anchored to the header and this is--or at least ought to be!--pretty firmly mounted to the engine.

How firmly? Well, as an aside, at one time PW was installing his headers to engines with J-B Weld. I don't know if he still does this, but would not be surprised if this is still the case.

As per above, keep the silicone coupler short. While keeping the header long; any shortening of the assembly of pipe and header ought come from the pipe, as the aluminum header so much more readily shrugs off the high heat.

But don't make the installation one where the nose of the pipe rubs the end of the header.

I am planning on using a Dave Brown pipe mount, but concerns of abrading the CF pipe are valid. The use of a loop of silicone tubing sounds quite attractive and is something I will be considering.

Speaking of which, I notice folk using plain ol' rubber bands to hold their tanks in, these bands operating in close proximity to a hot header and plenty of fuel.

Don't do it. Create anchors of some sort, I use lengths of 4-40 Gold-N-Rod tubing to embed anchors in logical places, install formed hooks which are bent up from 4-40 threaded rod.

The retaining band itself is a loop of silicone fuel line--I like and use Prather's--the loop formed by insertion of a length of 4-40 threaded rod, each end of the tubing wrapped to this rod with serving wire.

Dan

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