this fuselage just did not react to steam, water, force, etc.  So in desperation I make a light 1/8" deep, vertical cut with a fine tooth razor saw. Then let it sit, very wet, for two days on a fulcrum with heavy weights fore and aft. Then 10-25 second gap filler ACC was put into the cut.  Most of the warp came out. So I made a second cut just aft of the first one, slightly deeper and did the same thing. This fuselage is now dead straight and I have it in clear, ready for some carbon veil. 

Hi Guys,

I use a similar approach to straighten shaped LE stock.  I've been called crazy, but it works, and works really, really well.  So good that you cannot see where the repairs were made.  I use the thinnest wide blade razor saw from X-acto and cut  kerfs in the stock on the edge that is convex.  I start in the middle of the warp and work out on each side of the first cut until it is straight.  A tiny bit of CA wicked into each slot as I go to hold it.  I put this side of the piece on the outboard, and the bottom, if I can. 

My Giant Stuntmaster wing was done this way and it has stayed straight for many years.  it had about 3/4' of and inch warp to start with!  Weight gain was not really measureable.

Of course, this is not the excepted manner of fixing things, I understand, but it works for me.