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Author Topic: Flap and elevator sanding  (Read 1824 times)

Offline RC Storick

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Flap and elevator sanding
« on: May 16, 2006, 05:51:48 PM »
Place you rough cut flap or elevator between the first two rods 3/8-1/4 sand until the block touches the rods. Flip the material over and place between 3/8-1/8 rods and sand till the block touches. I use 40 grit for the rough sanding job. Then drop to 80 when it gets close. Finish with 220.



« Last Edit: May 31, 2006, 11:24:56 PM by Robert Storick »
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Offline RandySmith

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Re: Flap and elevator sanding
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2006, 09:38:07 PM »
Spark....not trying to be a pain in the butt, but it does matter....I'm not clever enough to demonatrate....mayhaps someone can?

Hi Rich
It really  does not  cut a  warp in the  wood. I have done this on every plane I have built for the past 30 years, NO Warps.
example  Flaps, mine  are  3/8 inch  tapered to 1/8 inch
I take a 3/8 inch rod and put  it at the lead edge or hinge line, this stops any cutting of the  flap at that end.
the trail edge gets a 1/4 inch rod, I sand this side with rough paper and it will cut an even taper of 1/8 inch on one side of the  flap.
I then turn the flap over, and put a 1/8 inch  rod at the trailing edge which is now 1/4 inch thick, I sand this side and it cuts a 1/8 inch taper into the flap.
This is now a flap that has a 1/8 inch taper cut evenly in both  sides, they come out straight with  ZERO  warps cut into them.

100s of people use this rod trick  and  have  no problems,  The only ones I have seen have problems are not following directions.

Now if your using a  curved  trailing edge, you can get in trouble, you have to bend the  trail edge rod to the same curve as the  flap.
You can also get in to problems if you push down hard on the  sanding block...example, your sanding on your card table, when you push down hard it  warps the table, since the flap is laying on the table it will warp  too.
So you just need to be careful.

Randy
« Last Edit: May 17, 2006, 09:43:18 AM by RandySmith »

Offline bob branch

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Re: Flap and elevator sanding
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2006, 07:30:39 PM »
I'm going along with a Brodak Vector 40 kit . One of the flaps has a warped curve in it. To correct it am I correct that I apply water to the side that is the inside of the curve? Should I pin it to a flat surface as I do it to hold it to a flat contour as it dries or do I need to over correct a bit?

bob branch

Offline RC Storick

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Re: Flap and elevator sanding
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2006, 07:42:11 PM »
You will need to over bend it some. I would use steam instead of water.
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Offline Rob Killick

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Re: Flap and elevator sanding
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2006, 03:06:58 PM »
What do you use to keep the flap material secure from sliding on your work surface ?
I'm sure I can tape the rods to my glass sheet , but what about the flap balsa ?
Rob Killick , MAAC 33300

Offline Busby

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Re: Flap and elevator sanding
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2006, 04:06:31 PM »
Sand with your right hand and hold the wood with your left.
You can also use key stock of the appropriate size ,the square shape is a little easier to hold steady.

You can also make a jig to hold the rods steady ,use a piece of plastic laminate covered plywood or a piece of shelf stock, 4 to 4 1/2 inches wide by 24 to 28 inches long.
Drill holes that will fit a small finish nail at 1/4inch on center at each end.
Put 2 nails at each end ,adjusting them to fit the taper of the stab or flap, intall the rods ,slide the part in and you don't have to fight stabilizing the part while sanding.

The biggest thing to remember while doing this is to let the sand paper work, dint bear down or the part will WARP or cup.
Marshall Busby

Offline Rob Killick

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Re: Flap and elevator sanding
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2006, 07:33:29 PM »
Right on :)

Thanks
Rob Killick , MAAC 33300


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