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  • October 21, 2021, 02:03:07 AM

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Author Topic: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.  (Read 1042 times)

Offline Perry Rose

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Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« on: October 03, 2021, 06:16:31 AM »
 
The wing span is 58 inches not what is posted on the plans and box.   If you follow directions use the Brodak wing jig or equivalent. Use an incidence meter to verify that both ends of the jig are the same. don't rely on a "flat surface". Be careful when using the laser cut leading and trailing edges. Make sure you have the inboard and outboard sets in the proper orientation. The center ends have a stub that can cause confusion. Don't cut it off yet.  The fuselage front sections have a cut out for the wing. use that to mark the leading edge radius and shape the leading edges before gluing the wing halves together. Also when gluing the fuselage fronts together use one of the cut outs to align them for gluing. Set one half on a flat surface put a scrap of 1/8 balsa in the wing opening, place one cut out on the balsa in the opening and use that to align the second half. After gluing use a scrap of 1/64 ply to reinforce the wing opening, front and rear. Not in the wing opening, there are flat spots outside the opening. If not it may break when wiggling the wing into the opening. Drill the hole for the landing gear in the torque blocks in a drill press. Use a piece of 1/8 wire to align it when you epoxy it in place. Trim the torque block to match the rib opening on the left wing to give the leadout wire all the room it needs before gluing it to the rib.
  I'm going electric with a printed motor mount so I'm going to use 1/16 ply on the nose doublers with triplers on both sides to fair the mount into the fuselage. It's a nice kit.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2021, 05:13:01 AM »
One thing I learned from Pat Johnston. Install shear webs between the wing spars ,being careful of the leadout wires, and across the trailing edge. It makes the wing a lot stiffer.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline ray copeland

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2021, 02:35:03 PM »
Perry, thanks for the building notes as i plan to build my kit this winter. I have to ask since i am not sure what a shear web is or where they need to go. Do you mind doing a pic or diagram, please and thank you, Ray
Ray from Greensboro, North Carolina , six laps inverted so far with my hand held vertically!!! (forgot to mention, none level!) AMA# 902150

Offline Dave Hull

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Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2021, 06:07:55 AM »
Yes, what Dave posted. The trailing edge webs go between the trailing edge sheets, they don't stick out into the covering.

Also on the bellcrank to flap horn push rod, the kit has a rod with a "Z" bend at one end. I open the middle hole in the bell crank a bit and stuck the "Z" into it. Friction free. on the horn end I used a Du=Bro 4-40 Threaded Coupler #336 and a Sullivan 4-40 clevis. It's a solder on coupler, don't forget that the rod goes into the coupler 3/8 to 7/16". If you think the rod will bend in flight push on it and see what it takes to bend a 6 inch piece. I plan on a carbon rod for the elevator push rod. I don't like fair leads.
On the fuselage sides the wing chord line goes right through the screw hole in the tail weight box. I draw a line from the wing trailing edge to that hole and make a dimple or small hole three inches from the trailing edge of the wing so I can accurately locate the flap fairings. It saves with the bench trimming later on.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2021, 05:46:13 AM »
After using the wing knockout to mark the leading edge radius use a razor plane to take most of the balsa off the leading edge close to the line. Then use Ted Fancher's "shoe shine"method to finish it off. Having a few helpers to hold the wing panel will help a lot.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2021, 10:35:51 AM by Perry Rose »
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2021, 10:42:23 AM »
Canopy sandwich.  The canopy is made up of two pieces of 1/4" balsa. Fine and dandy except after you sheet the fuselage with 1/64 ply the canopy is now too narrow. Take a piece of 1/32 balsa and sandwich that between the canopy pieces. That will make up for the extra fuselage thickness and you will have a smooth line bottom to top. I caught that too late and had to glue the 1/32 to the outside of the canopy. Rounding may tear the 1/32 up a bit if not sandwiched between the CB and CBR canopy pieces.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2021, 02:06:31 PM »
1/64 ply fuselage skins.  The skins and the front fuselage have 1/8 slots for the control horns to pass through. Aligning the skin and fuselage slots for the wing and stab so you can glue the skins on is tricky. I used a 1/8 inch piece of ply scrap in the slots of the skin and fuselage at the wing and stab to align both while gluing. I figure the ply is more accurate than my building over  the plan. To stop the skin from moving when weighted  I tack glued the skin at the front and rear, removed the 1/8 pieces and put a full length weight on. Feeling silly I read the directions and found that the rear end should be tapered before putting the skins on. I'll use the sander and taper it removing some of the ply in the process. It will be under the stab anyway.
  When you glue the canopy on it will need trimming  to flatten the gluing surface of the canopy.





I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2021, 09:04:06 PM »
Or you can use a technique I first saw in one of Roger Greene's profile designs, the Aetos from the March '79 Model Aviation:  let the canopy be thinner to set off the edge of the fuselage and make it look less like a profile. It is a subtle detail that adds some realism back to any profile job.

Dave

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #9 on: October 10, 2021, 11:22:10 AM »
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com/

I put some photo's on my blog which may explain thing or two. How I install flap horns and such.
  I gathered all the parts and weighed them along with the electric motor , ESC, timer, prop and spinner etc. Sans covering and other incidentals it weighs 39.3 ounces. The power train is about the same weight as a fuel engine set up. so the estimated finished weight listed in the directions 45 ounces is obtainable using just kit wood.

 On another note I managed to run my right/flying hand through a prop this morning. Ouch I said along with heck, darn and the grand daddy of them all shucks. I have 30 or so cuts from my wrist to my first thumb knuckle or whats left of them. Luckily the walk in clinic was almost open and it's taken care of. Oh I forgot I said drat too.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2021, 12:07:00 AM »
Perry,

Sorry to hear of your vocabulary lessons misfortune. Hopefully it will all heal up quickly with no lasting damage.

Dave

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2021, 02:48:21 PM »
Something I do with today's control horns. The horns are drilled for 3/32 push rods. I use Du-Bro or Sullivan clevis's which have 1/16" pins. That makes a lot of slop in the control system. I use a clevis at the top of the flap horn and another one at the elevator end of the flap to elevator push rod. What I found is that 3/32" aluminum tubing fits the horn holes perfectly. I cut a 1/8" piece of the tubing, stick it in the horn hole and using two center punches, one at either end of the tubing, flair the tube ends to capture the tube and then flatten the flairs in a vise. That makes a great bushing reducing the slop. I only have to do the top hole on the flap horn but all three on the elevator horn. My flap to elevator push rod has a 3/32 wire at the flap end, which needs no bushing, and a clevis at the elevator end which needs all the bushings it can get.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2021, 10:04:02 AM »
www.perrystoys.blogspot.com 

I installed the elevator fairings perfectly in line with the stab. using shims to center them on the stab. The above link should get you to the photos and text.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
I wouldn't take her to a dog fight even if she had a chance to win.
The worst part of growing old is remembering when you were young.


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