Building Tips and technical articles. > Building techniques
Notes on building the Brodak Mo' Best kit.
Perry Rose:
After using the wing knockout to mark the leading edge radius use a razor plane to take most of the balsa off the leading edge close to the line. Then use Ted Fancher's "shoe shine"method to finish it off. Having a few helpers to hold the wing panel will help a lot.
Perry Rose:
Canopy sandwich. The canopy is made up of two pieces of 1/4" balsa. Fine and dandy except after you sheet the fuselage with 1/64 ply the canopy is now too narrow. Take a piece of 1/32 balsa and sandwich that between the canopy pieces. That will make up for the extra fuselage thickness and you will have a smooth line bottom to top. I caught that too late and had to glue the 1/32 to the outside of the canopy. Rounding may tear the 1/32 up a bit if not sandwiched between the CB and CBR canopy pieces.
Perry Rose:
1/64 ply fuselage skins. The skins and the front fuselage have 1/8 slots for the control horns to pass through. Aligning the skin and fuselage slots for the wing and stab so you can glue the skins on is tricky. I used a 1/8 inch piece of ply scrap in the slots of the skin and fuselage at the wing and stab to align both while gluing. I figure the ply is more accurate than my building over the plan. To stop the skin from moving when weighted I tack glued the skin at the front and rear, removed the 1/8 pieces and put a full length weight on. Feeling silly I read the directions and found that the rear end should be tapered before putting the skins on. I'll use the sander and taper it removing some of the ply in the process. It will be under the stab anyway.
When you glue the canopy on it will need trimming to flatten the gluing surface of the canopy.
Dave Hull:
Or you can use a technique I first saw in one of Roger Greene's profile designs, the Aetos from the March '79 Model Aviation: let the canopy be thinner to set off the edge of the fuselage and make it look less like a profile. It is a subtle detail that adds some realism back to any profile job.
Dave
Perry Rose:
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com/
I put some photo's on my blog which may explain thing or two. How I install flap horns and such.
I gathered all the parts and weighed them along with the electric motor , ESC, timer, prop and spinner etc. Sans covering and other incidentals it weighs 39.3 ounces. The power train is about the same weight as a fuel engine set up. so the estimated finished weight listed in the directions 45 ounces is obtainable using just kit wood.
On another note I managed to run my right/flying hand through a prop this morning. Ouch I said along with heck, darn and the grand daddy of them all shucks. I have 30 or so cuts from my wrist to my first thumb knuckle or whats left of them. Luckily the walk in clinic was almost open and it's taken care of. Oh I forgot I said drat too.
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