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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Mike Spiess on July 04, 2006, 07:08:20 PM

Title: Nobler oops
Post by: Mike Spiess on July 04, 2006, 07:08:20 PM
I hve a Nobler built and has 4 flights. I used the included control rods. Now what should I do.
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Leester on July 04, 2006, 07:49:55 PM
You either take it apart and replace them or continue to fly it, not much more you can do.
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Alan Hahn on July 04, 2006, 08:38:46 PM
I  assume you mean the Top FLite Nobler Arf?

If so, then at a minimum, take off the canopy, and flood the clevises on the flap horns with Locktite 242 (the blue stuff). this will help. I can't remember if the elevator horn is soldered or not, and I am too lazy to look. So if it is also threaded, cut into the monocote near the tail and use the same locktite.

I found that the locktite really held my clevises on the stock Arf Nobler. I eventually replaced the clevises with ball links (that was a pain!) on the Arf Nobler, but I found it the locktite was really holding pretty good.
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Tom Dugan on July 05, 2006, 06:30:43 AM
Except for another Ukey, I probably will not buy another ARF kit.  It was to much trouble to replace the controls in the ARF Cardinal I have.  I ultimately had to recover the wing and figure that if I have to go to this extent then why not just build.

Im curious why the major vendors dont change the control systems to something worthwhile???

Thomas
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: old fart on July 05, 2006, 06:38:35 AM
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ **)Or we still don't speak chineese very well :!
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Tom Dugan on July 06, 2006, 12:43:18 PM
I didnt know the Teosawki was an ARF...Who sells them?
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Bill Little on July 06, 2006, 01:46:22 PM
I didnt know the Teosawki was an ARF...Who sells them?

Clayton Smith from here in NC makes them, when he makes them!  **)

Greensboro or W-S.

Bill <><
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Mike Spiess on July 06, 2006, 02:42:48 PM
Thanks guys I'll use the locktite trick. The way I fly it may not last more than eight more flights. I'm kinda on my own building and flying here as the closest CL club is about 100mi away. I get there when I can but my schedule is real tight now so I kinda plod along. It's been great to find this web site to help.
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: mark eisenhut on September 21, 2006, 08:44:38 AM
whats wrong with the control rods and arf nobler kit? i was thinking of getting one someday.
thanks for any info
mark eisenhut
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Ron Merrill on September 21, 2006, 09:02:35 AM
WE need to petition Brodak, i think he might listen, to sell ARF's with better controls and the bring the building of his kits back here. I know the price would increase,  bulletproof is woth something. Just me. y1 <= #^. Ron.
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Ironbomb on September 21, 2006, 09:34:05 AM
Mike, the control hardware in the Top Flight kit is weak. Basicly, the bellcrank, and clevises are the weak links. I was able to pull the hinge pin out of a clevis with almost no effort with a pair of needlenose pliers. I also replaced the bellcrank and leadouts, at the strong suggestions from other that learned the hard way. If I remember correctly, the leadout cable was sawing thru the bellcrank on some airplnes, and I think the crimps were causing some headache as well.

Flying Models magazine (dont remember the issue) had a good article on all the Nobler improvments that were being done, and there should be lots more others can tell when they read your post.

I am useing stock control horns, and pushrods on mine. Sullivan clevises and leadouts on a Sig 3"bellcrank are the only replacments I made to my Nobler. It flew great until the wind did me in.

Good luck with your Nobler,

Greg
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Jim Oliver on September 21, 2006, 02:59:32 PM
Recent production of Brodak's Cardinal ARF and Pathfinder ARF have had a metal clevis
soldered on the end of the bellcrank to flap pushrod.  A nasty looking job, too. 
I just cut the pushrod off a little and use a solder-on split coupler to get a 90* bend in exactly the right place.

Rebuilding the control systems should be S.O.P. for any of the ARF's I have worked on, Brodak or Top Flite.

Jim
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Bill Little on September 21, 2006, 05:53:19 PM
whats wrong with the control rods and arf nobler kit? i was thinking of getting one someday.
thanks for any info
mark eisenhut

Hi Mark,

Unfortunately, the stock Nobler ARF control system is not very good at all if you want reliability.  It *might* last the lifetime of the plane......... it *might* shorten the lifetime fo the plane (like after 4-12 flights).

The clevices are not good.  Best to just put in a nylon BC, some wrapped or solid LOs, and new pushrods.  Just replacing them with normal parts and wire will bring it up to standards of the '60s.  Tom Morris makes a drop in ball link control system for the TF Nobler ARF, but at about $40 it is a *little* pricey.  I bought them and will use them in a plans built Nobler (Louis Grondal AMA Special. 1960 and 1962 World Champion).

Bill <><
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: mark eisenhut on September 21, 2006, 08:17:17 PM
so do all the arf kits have this problem tf and brodaks
thank you
 mark eisenhut
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Greg L Bahrman on September 21, 2006, 08:51:14 PM
so do all the arf kits have this problem tf and brodaks
thank you
 mark eisenhut
YES
Title: Re: Nobler oops
Post by: Bill Little on September 21, 2006, 09:36:11 PM
I am not sure about the Force from Sig...............

But all the others can really benefit from simple updating of the control system, if for nothing else, peace of mind!  I really don't want to be concerned that a lead out will break, the bellcrank will fail, the clevis will break or come off the rod, etc., etc..   If I am going to tear up a plane, I want to be the factor that causes its demise! :)

Bill <><