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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Bob Johnson on October 13, 2006, 02:33:34 PM
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As the building season begins I thought I’d post a few photos of the 15 sized stunter I just started. As you may recall, I had some misgivings about the Akromaster kit I had, this is what I went with. It’s a sort a scale fighter but I’ll leave it to you to guess which one. The wing is built on my glass and angle iron (aluminum) jig. Photo one shows the ribs, LE & TE held in place by friction fit prior to final alignment in the jig (note the fixed flap and TE are one piece). Photo two is the wing aligned in the jig ready for the CA. Photo three shows the bottom of the wing after flipping it over, the main spruce spars and TE sheeting have been glued in place. Next the LG blocks and bellcrank. More shots later.
Bob
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Original design?
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well, yes, sort of... So far I'm useing the Akromaster airfoil and general numbers and dimensions. The plan is 75% drawn and I used a three view off the net as a starting point. Any guess so far?
Bob
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well, yes, sort of... So far I'm useing the Akromaster airfoil and general numbers and dimensions. The plan is 75% drawn and I used a three view off the net as a starting point. Any guess so far?
Bob
My guess is a P-40.
Bill <><
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I'm with Bill....looks like it might be a P-40
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P-40 has a tapered leading edge?
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The P-40 is a fine guess, and I did consider it. This is something a bit less common, at least a quick search did not turn up a C/L version that I could find, only plastic static kits. If no one gets warm I'll provide some hints.
Bob
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P-40 has a tapered leading edge?
All the early P-40s had a straight LE.
Another guess: F-4-F Wildcat??
Bill <><
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First hint: country of origin?
Dennis
<=
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C'mon Bob, the suspense is killing us! **)
Cheers, Rob.
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Sorry, Sorry, Sorry, I got sidetracked (that work thing). No, not an F4F Wildcat. The country of origin would be too easy, sooooo..... here's the first hints. Designed in 1942, prototype in 43, production in 44, considered a very good performer. Also some great paint schemes (my opinion). More construction detail photos to be posted soon (I hope).
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:! P47 maybe?
The other stuff on the bench certainly suggest it.
Cheers, Rob.
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Grumman F8F Bearcat!
Roger V.
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AAAAhhh... sharp eye looking at the photos of the work bench. The fuse outline you see is indeed for the plane I'm building; however it's not an F8F Bearcat nor a P-47 though it resembles a P-47 in profile. Big hint #2 Pacific theater of operation. I'm sure you'll all get this pretty quick.
Bob
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Japanese KI-43 Oscar?
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FRANK-ly Bill, your gettin' real close. (hint, hint) I'm sure you'll nail it on the next guess. I hope to post more photos soon( I hope to get back to work on it too.)
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As promised... control system and landing gear blocks. Photo 1 shows the modified (lightened) 3in. Sig bell crank. note alum. tube insert. Photo 2 bellcrank and nylon bolt to hold floating bellcrank between ply mounts. Photo 3&4 landing gear blocks installed, shaved and drilled to lighten (a gram here a gram there.) more soon I hope.
bob
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Ki-84 "Frank"? Jack? Raiden? Nose doesn't look quite like a Zero........
Bill <><
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AAAAhhh... sharp eye looking at the photos of the work bench. The fuse outline you see is indeed for the plane I'm building; however it's not an F8F Bearcat nor a P-47 though it resembles a P-47 in profile. Big hint #2 Pacific theater of operation. I'm sure you'll all get this pretty quick.
Bob
F4U Voit Corsair
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DING, DING, DING, DING, DING, DING, DING, DING, DING, DING, DING, We have a WINNER!! Yes, Bill is correct it is (will be) a Ki-84 "Frank"one of japans top production fighters of the war and by many accounts the equal of top allied fighters in several respects. Here is a profile shot. My paint scheme will be different, though I like this one. more to come.
Bob
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You should do Maj. Tembiko Kobiashi's plane ( I might have missed the spelling slightly, it's been 33 years since I built an IMPS contest model of it).... it had an outline of a running deer on the nose! #^ N1/A3 green over A/N 1 gray, white "squares" behind the hinomarus. y1
Bill <><
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Hhhhmmmmmm.........Sounds interesting, I'd like to see it. Have you a photo or know where I can see one?Thanks for the info.
Bob
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Hhhhmmmmmm.........Sounds interesting, I'd like to see it. Have you a photo or know where I can see one?Thanks for the info.
Bob
Hi Bob,
Let me dig around. I should have the reference material *somewhere*! I never seem to throw aout anything. n~
Bill <><
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I'm working on the fuse and tail feathers. here are a few shots of the fuse development. I'll post the stab.& elevator shots later.
1. All slots are cut to the square blank with a table saw so they align parallel.
2. the outside shape is cut. note the red centerline
3. Mounts are epoxied in after being drilled for lightness. note 1/8 in. ply cross brace.
4. The light ply doublers are tapered and epoxied in place
5. Motor is aligned and mounted through 1/16 in. aluminum pad. motor recess and mount area have been painted with thin coat of epoxy to fuel proof.
Hope these are helpful.
Bob
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Still don't know what the big nylon bolt is for.
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I don't think he's gonna tell us.
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Still don't know what the big nylon bolt is for.
He already did......... **)
(Quote)
Re: New plane started-more photos
« Reply #16 on: October 20, 2006, 04:01:33 PM » Reply with quote Modify message Remove message Split Topic
As promised... control system and landing gear blocks. Photo 1 shows the modified (lightened) 3in. Sig bell crank. note alum. tube insert. Photo 2 bellcrank and nylon bolt to hold floating bellcrank between ply mounts. Photo 3&4 landing gear blocks installed, shaved and drilled to lighten (a gram here a gram there.) more soon I hope.
bob(quote)
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Huh.
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Cool model Bob! y1 Warbirds Rule!!! y1 y1 y1
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a few shots of the stab. & elevator.
1. I lightly clamp the two together to mark the position of the hinges and the joiner/fork. Note: I bend the joiner first and then mark where to drill the holes useing the joiner as a guide.
2. To drill the holes straight, I sandwich the elevator between two pine 1x3s (straight and true) This holds the piece better and affords a wider base to set on the drill stage. It also helps prevent side spliting. I leave the work sandwiched while I cut the hinge slots with a slot machine. The wider surface makes judgeing right angles eaiser and affords a place to steady your hand against the work surface. At least it works for me.
Hope to post more soon.
Bob
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Two cents here,
I suggest you paint it just like the photo you have posted. It would be pretty easy and look really cool, while being accurate as a bonus. ;D
Great stuff!