Author Topic: New build (Read 103899 times)

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #200 on:** March 30, 2013, 08:59:34 PM »

worst part about the improvised product,, you have to blow it up LOL

its lookin sharp Randy,, let me know what it looks like when you pop the balloon,,,

I wanted to ask you, what epoxy are you using ,, just the "hobby shop"" blend, or ?

wwwarbird · « **Reply #201 on:** March 31, 2013, 12:51:56 AM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on March 30, 2013, 08:09:57 PM

So I used Mark Scarborough's trick of using a balloon to compress the fiberglass and epoxy into the corners and such. Problem was, I didn't have any balloons. So I improvised.

Whoah. I wasn't quite ready for that.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #202 on:** March 31, 2013, 08:25:53 AM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on March 30, 2013, 08:09:57 PM

So, I had to put some fiberglass and epoxy inside the molded top block. Should have done it before I glued the block on, but I thought I wouldn't need it. Turned out I did. So I used Mark Scarborough's trick of using a balloon to compress the fiberglass and epoxy into the corners and such. Problem was, I didn't have any balloons. So I improvised.

Another use for condoms!!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #203 on:** March 31, 2013, 07:41:06 PM »

mark,

I'm using West Systems.

And I discovered that you have to be very careful when solder a new connector on a battery. Yikes.

I gave up trying to solder Deans connectors and worked out a trick. I'll take a picture later. It works.

Mike Haverly · « **Reply #204 on:** March 31, 2013, 09:13:19 PM »

Randy, they can be a little difficult to hold onto unless you plug two of them together. Solder one and use the other to hold in place in a vise or similar. Be sure to put the shrink tube on the wire first. Yeah, don't ask.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #205 on:** March 31, 2013, 09:28:10 PM »

Randy, they make an "easy solder" thing to make it easier, but like Mike says,, if you plug two plugs together,, then I hold them with hemostats and a weight, they are not to bad to solder, but I use a weller gun, not a pencil,, heat fast,

oh yeah, Mikes comment about the heat shrink,, me too more than once,,
or worse, have the heat shrink on,, and have it slip up the wire and get to close to where you are soldering, and of course,, it shrink , now it wont go over the connection,, arghhhhh

Mike Haverly · « **Reply #206 on:** March 31, 2013, 10:11:12 PM »

Yep! Been there, done both.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #207 on:** April 01, 2013, 09:30:27 AM »

Yea, I had heat shrink that was just not quite big enought to start with. I stretch it a bit and it worked OK, but then I decided to get some bigger stuff so I took apart what I had done and did it again. I'm happier with what I came up with.

I ended up using a sort of fitting I made to make the joint between the wire and the Deans a bit neater. Hey, I'm learning here.

I'm a decent shadetree engineer, but a lousy electrician.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #208 on:** April 01, 2013, 11:35:45 AM »

I did some where I took a short section of brass tubing, split it, and formed a coupler,, it was pretty solid and easy to solder,, but that soon became very tedious,, so I figured out a way to solder to the deans without the extra,,
its all learning,, new challenges,,

Randy Powell · « **Reply #209 on:** April 01, 2013, 01:08:10 PM »

Mark,

I made a jig to use a piece of copper tubing. Cut them up to lengths and use the jig to make a fitting that slides easily over the the deans with a round hole for the heavy gauge wire. Once I made the jig, it takes about 15 seconds to make a fitting. Then I just solder it up and slide the heat shrink over it.

It was easy and works, but like you, I may tire of that and learn how to solder the connections without it.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #210 on:** April 06, 2013, 08:43:30 PM »

OK, the electrics are set and the nose is just about done. Geez what a lot of work. I stole Peter Germann's idea for mounting the ESC. Now I'm fitting the cowl and then the vents will go in (I've got some crazy ideas for that - probably watching too much Fast 'N Loud). Then maybe I can get to the control surfaces.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #211 on:** April 06, 2013, 09:03:26 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on April 01, 2013, 01:08:10 PM

It was easy and works, but like you, I may tire of that and learn how to solder the connections without it.

I haven't done the Deans connectors (I've been using PowerPoles), but if it solders like it looks it would you'll help yourself tremendously if you tin the wire and leave a bit of a blob, then tin the connector, then sweat solder the two together -- that way you separate the tasks of getting good solder adhesion on wire and connector (by tinning first), and actually getting the wire and connector stuck together.

In my career as an electronics engineer and hobbyist I've soldered a jillion connectors of all sizes, with well over two dozen different types if you only count stuff that's available commercially. Whenever you have something big or difficult to solder, separating the tinning step from the actual sticking-together step can be a great big help.

RC Storick · « **Reply #212 on:** April 06, 2013, 09:06:16 PM »

use these

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-5.html#2818

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #213 on:** April 06, 2013, 09:16:03 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on April 06, 2013, 09:03:26 PM

I haven't done the Deans connectors (I've been using PowerPoles), but if it solders like it looks it would you'll help yourself tremendously if you tin the wire and leave a bit of a blob, then tin the connector, then sweat solder the two together -- that way you separate the tasks of getting good solder adhesion on wire and connector (by tinning first), and actually getting the wire and connector stuck together.

In my career as an electronics engineer and hobbyist I've soldered a jillion connectors of all sizes, with well over two dozen different types if you only count stuff that's available commercially. Whenever you have something big or difficult to solder, separating the tinning step from the actual sticking-together step can be a great big help.

That is sound advice Tim, It is how I do mine too, but its such second nature to me I had not thought about spelling it out,, it does make it much more managable.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #214 on:** April 06, 2013, 11:03:00 PM »

I used connectors like Robert shows --- except I made my own. They worked fine.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #215 on:** April 07, 2013, 07:27:32 PM »

The nose is finally just about done. Still need to build a mount for the arming switch and start button, but the cowl is now done, more or less. The top vents on in and mostly done. Still needs a ton of work on the nose, but it's starting to look like a plane. Even got the elevators done while waiting for the goop to dry on the cowl.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #216 on:** April 12, 2013, 07:58:34 PM »

Randy, where'd you go?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #217 on:** April 12, 2013, 10:50:57 PM »

Well, I got the canopy dyed tonight and the cowl is mostly sealed. I will grind that down tomorrow and then get some odds and ends done, then fit everything up in the nose to make sure it all fits then proceed with the rest of it. I'll take some pictures this weekend. To quote John Ringo, It's mostly the fiddly stuff right now.

RC Storick · « **Reply #218 on:** April 12, 2013, 11:49:52 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on April 12, 2013, 10:50:57 PM

Well, I got the canopy dyed tonight and the cowl is mostly sealed. I will grind that down tomorrow and then get some odds and ends done, then fit everything up in the nose to make sure it all fits then proceed with the rest of it. I'll take some pictures this weekend. To quote John Ringo, It's mostly the fiddly stuff right now.

Did you get your glue?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #219 on:** April 13, 2013, 11:24:12 AM »

Robert,

Yea. I posted that on the open forum. Thanks! Came at just the right time. I did learn you need to watch out for the XR stuff. It's the real stuff.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #220 on:** April 13, 2013, 08:04:45 PM »

OK, a couple of pictures. First fitting of electrical stuff. Still need some work there. Need to shorten some stuff up. The cowl and main vents are fitted. Still need to put in the nose vents and I'm not happy with the way the arming switch and start button are fitted. Still some fiddly stuff. I managed to get one elevator mostly done. I'm still building it so no move to finishing or electrical or anything.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #221 on:** April 14, 2013, 08:21:23 AM »

I see you have got it all in place. Looks like a nightmare to me. And I thought it was tough trying to put 4.5 ounce tank in an area for 3.5 ounces.

Plane is still looking great. Being it is electric, all you need is clear to seal the wood so we can swoon over the wood construction.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #222 on:** April 14, 2013, 11:54:33 AM »

The woodwork on this plane was a little messier than my usual. I ran into some problems with the molded decks and such. I think it's going to be nose heavy but we'll have to see.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #223 on:** April 14, 2013, 02:21:04 PM »

I hope you can change the battery without removing that hatch. It is imprudent to locate stuff on the hatch cover such that wires get wiggled every flight.

RC Storick · « **Reply #224 on:** April 14, 2013, 05:06:41 PM »

Randy I am not telling you how do do anything but from my barnyard engineering degree It looks like the battery is below the thrust line. Work it out on paper. It will have adverse effects on flight in the upright postion. Just a thought. Just as the pipe does hanging under the wing.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #225 on:** April 14, 2013, 08:54:37 PM »

Randy Powell · « **Reply #226 on:** April 14, 2013, 09:43:31 PM »

The battery is right on the thrust line. I promise.

And Howard, If I could have, I would have put the arming switch and start button on the side. But then I couldn't have gotten the battery out. I suppose I could have hung something off the side and put it in that, but I was trying not to make it look too stupid.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #227 on:** April 15, 2013, 12:10:21 AM »

Randy,I have uttered that same sentiment myself,,

how can I do this and not look TOO stupid LOL

I am looking forward to seeign what you finish up with,,
I am getting excited to fly the 109,,
Hope you make it to Eugene with this one.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #228 on:** April 15, 2013, 11:15:35 AM »

One of the things I didn't think about at the start was a way to mount holder for my paint/finishing stand. At this point I usually hang the plane in the air so I can get to everything to sand, build and mount control surfaces, etc. I didn't think about how to attach such a thing. With IC, I just build a down with a plate to bolt to the engine mounts. That doesn't really work here. I did come up with something (I'll take a picture later) and discovered that I really need to get a long, T-handled, hex head driver with a ball fitting on the end. Those screws that mount the motor at the bottom (top of the plane) are going to be a royal pain to get to without such a tool.

Have to go see what the tool shop has. I managed to get the mount holder bolted up, but it took like an hour.

Always something.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #229 on:** April 15, 2013, 02:54:45 PM »

Same dilema I had, I ended up with a 1/2" dowel through the shaft opening in the mount bulkhead,, then it goes to the back of the battery bay,, where I lock it in place with a block,, it took awhile to figure it out though,,

Randy Powell · « **Reply #230 on:** April 15, 2013, 04:31:12 PM »

Mark,

Mine was more complicated, I guess. An "X' plate bolted to the motor mount and that bolted to a piece of 1/4" plywood with 4 6/32 bolts and hand nuts. Then a 3/4" dowel (not "down") through the plywood and sticking out the front of the plane. Man, I really need to find the right tool to hit those hex nuts that are buried at the bottom of the compartment.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #231 on:** April 15, 2013, 08:07:19 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on April 15, 2013, 11:15:35 AM

One of the things I didn't think about at the start was a way to mount holder for my paint/finishing stand. At this point I usually hang the plane in the air so I can get to everything to sand, build and mount control surfaces, etc. I didn't think about how to attach such a thing. With IC, I just build a down with a plate to bolt to the engine mounts. That doesn't really work here. I did come up with something (I'll take a picture later) and discovered that I really need to get a long, T-handled, hex head driver with a ball fitting on the end. Those screws that mount the motor at the bottom (top of the plane) are going to be a royal pain to get to without such a tool.

Have to go see what the tool shop has. I managed to get the mount holder bolted up, but it took like an hour.

Always something.

See Carbide Processors in Tacoma: http://www.carbideprocessors.com/

Randy Powell · « **Reply #232 on:** April 15, 2013, 09:45:35 PM »

Howard,

I just need to get a hex driver with a ball end so I can go in at an angle. Not a big deal except it has to be kinda long. I can probably get one at Tacoma Screw. Just need to get my butt over there and look.

Thanks for the reference, though. They have some cool stuff.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #233 on:** April 16, 2013, 09:06:07 AM »

I remember hanging a couple of planes from the leadouts when I was painting them.

George Buzel · « **Reply #234 on:** April 17, 2013, 07:57:28 AM »

Hi Randy,

Great Job, do you have a weight on the motor and all the electric suff?

regards,

George

Randy Powell · « **Reply #235 on:** April 17, 2013, 03:22:39 PM »

A bit more than equivelent IC. I haven't weighed it all since my scale went south a week ago. Hope to get a new scale in the next week or so.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #236 on:** April 20, 2013, 08:04:02 PM »

So, I ran into a problem with my battery tray. Turns out with everything in the nose, I really can't get to the hold down for battery very well. Would have worked OK, but made changing out the battery a pain. So, two hours later and I have a different setup that puts the hold down system in the rear and much more easily accessible. I'm still trying to figure out how I can put the arming switch and start button in the main airframe and not in the cowl, but that doesn't seem to be an option. Need to make the next fuselage a bit wider.

Got my pilot set up and started finishing the cockpit. Also got the elevators done. The stuff now is just slow going. I'll take some pictures when their is something to take pictures of.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #237 on:** April 21, 2013, 06:43:06 PM »

OK, for the 3 people interested, here's a couple of pictures. The one with the canopy just has it sitting there. Not attached. I just wanted to get an idea of what it's going to look like. It's different, anyway.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #238 on:** April 21, 2013, 06:57:42 PM »

It looks very Powellistic,,
It really makes me think of a Star Wars Pod racer,,

although it does remind me of some 1930s and 40s science fiction airplanes,,

I look forward to it

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #239 on:** April 21, 2013, 07:00:38 PM »

I like it a lot.
The tail is outstanding!
Really sleek design.

Marcus

RC Storick · « **Reply #240 on:** April 21, 2013, 08:58:20 PM »

Looks great Randy. Super sleek.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #241 on:** April 21, 2013, 09:47:58 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on April 21, 2013, 06:57:42 PM

It really makes me think of a Star Wars Pod racer,,

...except way cooler.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #242 on:** April 21, 2013, 10:12:42 PM »

Quote from: wwwarbird on April 21, 2013, 09:47:58 PM

...except way cooler.

I agree,, I was thinking,, my comments could be taken otherways,, but I think its definetly cool,, I want to see colors on it,,

Randy Powell · « **Reply #243 on:** April 21, 2013, 10:58:39 PM »

Ty,

The plans aren't ready for primetime. I drew them well enough for me to build it but they would need a lot more detail for someone else to build it.

It sorta of reminds me of a Naboo Starfighter (though that wasn't the idea when I drew it).

And the paint scheme is already decided. I can say at this point that it will be white and yellow with a black trim. Maybe.

ash · « **Reply #244 on:** April 21, 2013, 11:21:30 PM »

That's a class act. I love the row of square cooling vents.

Stunt Machine for the 21st Century!

Avaiojet · « **Reply #245 on:** April 22, 2013, 05:26:18 AM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on April 21, 2013, 06:43:06 PM

OK, for the 3 people interested, here's a couple of pictures. The one with the canopy just has it sitting there. Not attached. I just wanted to get an idea of what it's going to look like. It's different, anyway.

Randy,

I think there's more than three people interested. I could be number four.

I do like your design/model. A lot in fact!

Just the effort to come up with a design that's something different, as you have, deserves many Kudos! Not the easiest task to do well, but you managed to achieve good success with your design and that alone is an accomplishment. Kudos!!

When your flaps are in place the model will have a different appeal. My guess is the flaps are similar to your elevator in shape?

You could still remove those little stab "stick-outs" at the two rudders. I don't find them disturbing, just not needed. IMHO, or JAO, I feel the design, or that particular area, would have a cleaner appearance without them. I mentioned this before. A design scheme or the placement of color, could make them less obvious, OR, just the opposite.

Obviously, you do have the design, that you like, under control and I, as number four, will really be looking forward to other photos and comments about your project.

I'd be curious to know a bit more as to how your design evolved on paper? My guess is there were a few perliminary drawings.

It sure is a good looking design. Classic yet contemporary.

Well done!

Charles

Randy Powell · « **Reply #246 on:** April 22, 2013, 09:41:10 AM »

Charles,

I've done 4 or 5 elliptical designs. They tend to handle wind (or at least turbulence) better than standard tapered designs. This one is a bit higher aspect ratio than previous builds I've done. The wing is both horizontally and vertically eliptically tapered.

There really were no preliminary drawings. Using what I already had done, I sort of got the idea in my head then just drew it. Hardest part was getting a nose the required size to allow all the electrical stuff. Wish now I'd made it a touch wider so I could have kept the arming switch and start button out of the cowl. But, such is life. Next time will be different.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #247 on:** April 22, 2013, 10:57:05 AM »

Randy -- good looking plane! I just steal my aesthetic ideas and jigger them around a bit -- any time I achieve "truly unique" I manage to hit the "dorky" nail on the head, too. It looks like you've done something that manages to be both unique and stylish. I like it.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #248 on:** April 22, 2013, 12:02:23 PM »

Tim,

Well, let's hope I get a little substance to go along with the style. The last plane, in it's very short life, flew really pretty well. It was overweight and I stalled (pardon the pun) for a long time before flying it. I was then was pleasantly surprised by how well it flew. Shame an engineering failure caused it's demise. Hopefully I will avoid such potholes with this one.

RC Storick · « **Reply #249 on:** April 22, 2013, 03:02:00 PM »

Randy put the arming switch and button inboard under side. Just bedhind where the cowl stops. Just below the leading edge. Just a thought on how I would tackle this issue as a barnyard engineer.