First; I am by no means a great builder or flyer.  I just do this for a hobby. 
That said, I had built a Viking several years ago and this newer kit seems like a much different design.  That is probably good.
Some rookie questions follow.
First, the bellcrank installation seems backward.  The pushrod is connected on the inside (leadout side) of the wing. In other words, the leadouts cross over the pushrod.  Normally I see the opposite?  The pushrod seems to be interfering with the leadouts?
Second, the pushrod is split and is soldered with a collar connecting the two pieces.  Not my favorite setup.  I prefer a pushrod without a soldered connection.  I don't think a Tom Morris type of ball link/carbon fiber rod system will work as there is a bend in the pushrod system on Viking.
Is that soldered connection a problem? 

Either bellcrank location will work.  The leadouts cross over the pushrod both locations, just more so with the inboard location.  I use ball links on all connections so it is not difficult to add a washer or two under the pushrod connection to get some extra clearance.  I would question why it is necessary to have a bent pushrod.  Many of the older designs, especially profiles put a "Z" bend to allow for adjustment and would put a keeper at about the midpoint.  It has been a while but I think the Viking had one to allow it to exit the fuselage near the stab and attached to an external flap horn.  I personally do not like that arrangement and would find a way to make that a straight shot, even if it meant moving the bellcrank outboard a bit to give you a better angle.  If you make sure that the bellcrank is centered relative to the elevator when you make the bend for the elevator horn to attach there is no need for ball links and you can use soldered connections like they did in the old days.  Just make sure you have an adjustable handle.  Without flaps, that will be your go-to adjustment for level flight.

Ken

Let me add one thing.  I never had a Viking but I did have several Zilches.  I think they are cousins.  Before you cover the bottom, clamp the elevator at neutral and see if you can bend the pushrod by working the controls strong enough to overcome a 50mph force on the elevator.  If it bends it will most likely be on "Up" control.  Put in some braces to stop it from bending but not so tight as to prevent you from moving it.  We all flew like this before ball links and CF pushrods so you will be fine.

Also this tickled my need for an OTS plane.  I found Dennis's thread on the Brodak "redesign" and noticed that it appears, from the pictures that the kit has a centered flap horn.  If that is the case, by all means use a CF pushrod.

David:

Are you planning on using the leadout method where the leadouts are inside a piece of brass tubing, which is bent to a teardrop shape, and then looped thru the bellcrank?  This method takes up more vertical space than I can accept.  It might make it more likely to have interference between the leadouts and the pushrod.

I use this method.  It might be overkill for what you need but it is a bit more compact and thus less chance of interference between components.

Dave that looks fine if you keep the ship light with a 40, but if you are going with the high powered 60 I would go to a stronger bellcrank. The bushing method is very good don't solder them just wrap and OK to put heat shrink on (put the heat shrink onto the line before you start, don't ask how I learned this). Also, use a 4" bellcrank.

Best,     DennisT

Interesting info on the bellcrank.  I do have the 4.5 inch bellcranks in stock.  I can do minor mods and fit it in. 

I have found that optimal control speed is definitely a function of the age of the pilot.  I have toyed with the idea of going to a 4.5" or even 5" on my next plane so that I can go back to using a hardpoint handle and still do *level* level laps.  Did you mean "in Stock" to be your personal stash or for sale somewhere?

Ken

Ken.  I meant my personal stash.  I have three of the Tom Morris 4.5 inch assys.

Lucky Boy!