Author Topic: Mustang ready for color (3 new pics) (Read 3209 times)

Clint Ormosen · « **on:** October 15, 2007, 02:08:24 AM »

I think we're ready. Do I need to have primer on the bare spots? I'm shooting white paint first.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #1 on:** October 15, 2007, 09:02:24 AM »

That looks like the stage my P-39 is at. It is the little nit-picking items that I am working on before color. Looks good, DOC Holliday

Bill Little · « **Reply #2 on:** October 15, 2007, 09:46:26 AM »

Hi Clint,

That's generally what the plane should look like before you shoot your "Blocking Coat". I would shoot a thin coat of clear dope on what you have, followed by the white.

Airacobra · « **Reply #3 on:** October 15, 2007, 11:47:17 AM »

Clint, you going with a Military scheme, Air racing or your own design?

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #4 on:** October 15, 2007, 01:19:09 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on October 15, 2007, 09:46:26 AM

Hi Clint,

That's generally what the plane should look like before you shoot your "Blocking Coat". I would shoot a thin coat of clear dope on what you have, followed by the white.

Yup!!! But candle it before you shoot the white to make sure no fibers are sticking up. It there are, hit them VERY LIGHTLY with 600 or finer paper.

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #5 on:** October 15, 2007, 08:14:09 PM »

Quote from: Airacobra on October 15, 2007, 11:47:17 AM

Clint, you going with a Military scheme, Air racing or your own design?

I'm going with a civillian scheme. I once got a ride in a P-51 and took pics of the plane. I'm going to paint it like that one, which I've heard has been repainted to a military scheme.

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #6 on:** October 15, 2007, 08:16:26 PM »

Quote from: Randy Ryan on October 15, 2007, 01:19:09 PM

Yup!!! But candle it before you shoot the white to make sure no fibers are sticking up. It there are, hit them VERY LIGHTLY with 600 or finer paper.

OK, good tips. But do I need to sand the whole plane again after putting on the thin clear?

Bill Little · « **Reply #7 on:** October 15, 2007, 09:05:54 PM »

Quote from: Clint Ormosen on October 15, 2007, 08:16:26 PM

OK, good tips. But do I need to sand the whole plane again after putting on the thin clear?

No, but if you see some stray fibers, nibs, etc., when you candle it, sand those and reclear that area.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #8 on:** October 15, 2007, 10:53:28 PM »

Clint,

When you shoot the thin coat of clear over it (and thin meaning that the paint is thinned like 70%), let it completely dry then run your hand over it. If you feel any dust particals or whatever, sand those lightly to insure it's flat. Nothing is more frustrating that missing those spots then later, when your sanding and rubbing it out, you go through and see undercoat because you missed some nit sticking up.

Balsa Butcher · « **Reply #9 on:** October 16, 2007, 09:00:59 AM »

Clint 'Ol Buddy - Just my 2 cents worth here. No disrepect meant to anyone but I have a little different technique than Randy. You need to take more primer off. Primer equals heavy. Use 400 paper with a soft (balsa, or even foam) pad and sand until the only primer you have left is in the low spots. Now you have a spotted plane but with not much primer. When satisfied with what you see, apply an undercoat, either silver or polar grey. Silver shows the flaws better but some say they have adhesion problems due to the metallic content. After spraying either one, you will be surprised at the rough spots that show up. Sand, fill, smooth, than re-spray (spot re-spray is OK) until you are satisfied. Now, if you have used silver, better put on a coat of clear, not necessary w/ polar grey. Light smoothing out w/600 and you are FINALLY ready to spray color on your uniformly silver or grey airplane.

If plane is all white with only some trim, spray entire plane. If a lot of another color is being used, back mask or just don't spray the part that will be another color. A little white on your grey or silver won't show through a dark color. Don't worry too much about perfectly uniform appearance, especially on the first coat. It will all come together with the buffing after clear coats. Any overspray should be touched up w/600 between coats. With a good uniform base you should be able to get good color with only two-three (Brodak) or three-four (Sig) light coats of white. Lotsa work and prep but that's what it takes.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #10 on:** October 16, 2007, 12:27:50 PM »

Pete,

Yea, based on the picture, I'd say some more primer needs to come off, but it's tough to tell unless you're there. Iv'e used silver, gray, bronze and gold blocking coats. It kinda depends on the base color you're planning to use. When white, I'd probably use gray. But if I was using red as a trim, I'd probably use bronze or gold since a certain amount of the tone will come through unless you lay the white on like motar.

Bill Little · « **Reply #11 on:** October 16, 2007, 02:18:41 PM »

Clint,

The question I have now is: Do you want a 15-17 point plane or a 20 point plane??!!

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #12 on:** October 16, 2007, 04:14:01 PM »

I can take more primer off of it. The primer is really just Brodak white dope with a little black in it. Since it's too wet outside right now to add paint, I might as well take more off.

Bill, I'd be totally happy with anything over 15 pts

Balsa Butcher · « **Reply #13 on:** October 16, 2007, 05:35:45 PM »

Good choice on the "primer". I thought you were using the labled "Primer" primer. That's the heavy stuff.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #14 on:** October 16, 2007, 05:39:56 PM »

Pete,

Yea, sorry. I knew that Clint was using gray dope at this point from a previous conversation. I would note that white is the heaviest paint color. Interestingly, black is the lightest.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #15 on:** October 28, 2007, 11:41:00 PM »

Clint, just to give you an idea, here's the Cobra with the wing sanded. The fuse needs a bit more, I think, but I'll see what the weight is when the wings are done. I had more low spots that I expected on the fuse. What I get for wetting the silkspan then doping over it. Sigh...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #16 on:** October 29, 2007, 07:01:22 PM »

Thanks for the pic Randy. I'm waiting for my new spray guns to arrive before I put down anymore paint. I did take more primer off the 'Stang and I think I'm ready for a white basecoat. Just not gonna do it with my cheezy airbrush.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #17 on:** October 30, 2007, 09:29:02 AM »

Clint,

Good choice. Things are so much easier when you have the right equipment.

Chris McMillin · « **Reply #18 on:** October 30, 2007, 11:57:28 PM »

Quote from: Clint Ormosen on October 15, 2007, 08:14:09 PM

I'm going with a civillian scheme. I once got a ride in a P-51 and took pics of the plane. I'm going to paint it like that one, which I've heard has been repainted to a military scheme.

Cool. I love it when semi scale ships get semi scale paint schemes. Can't wait to see it.
Chris...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #19 on:** November 04, 2007, 03:27:57 AM »

My Mustang will look something like this one. It will be hard to do the stripe down the side because the model doesn't have as much space between the wing and canopy as a real Mustang does. But I'll do something to make it work.
This is the Mustang that I got a ride in. That's me at age 14 leaning on the prop and I'm IN the plane in the last pic.

Chris McMillin · « **Reply #20 on:** November 04, 2007, 11:07:14 PM »

Clint,
Do you remember the N number. I kind of recall that ship ending in TC, but I'll look it up and get some pics and info from a Mustang website for you.
Chris...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #21 on:** November 05, 2007, 03:30:36 AM »

Chris, I believe this link shows the Mustang today. According to the registration dates, the N number for this ship would be N51TC. These pics were taken in '84 or '85 and I remember the the owners name as Ted Contri from Reno, NV.. At the time, Ted owned three Mustangs. I have not seen or spoken with him since the day these pictures were taken.

http://www.warbirdregistry.org/p51registry/p51-4484753.html

BTW, how would know (or remember) the TC part of the N number on this particular plane? Weird.
If you know of any more pics of this Mustang in this paint scheme, please let me know.

Chris McMillin · « **Reply #22 on:** November 09, 2007, 03:56:19 PM »

I tried to find some side view pics I know I had seen before of the ship in the red and black paint job, but I couldn't.
I remembered the airplane from these pics I had seen.
I kind of like Mustangs, and especially one's in civil paint schemes. I grew up around them in those schemes in the 60's and 70's and like the look.
Chris...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #23 on:** November 16, 2007, 11:10:58 PM »

Looky what I found! Not easy to find pics of a plane that hasn't been painted in this color scheme for 20 years.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #24 on:** November 17, 2007, 12:25:36 AM »

Looks at bit like the paint job on the Critical Mass that Al Rabe used.

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #25 on:** November 17, 2007, 01:32:56 AM »

Yeah, it does. Rats.

Shultzie · « **Reply #26 on:** November 17, 2007, 10:59:01 AM »

Then we have Bob Kautsman's (Yakima Wa.Spokane Internats 1970) beautiful Rabe Mellow yellow MisseeeBardall

Chris McMillin · « **Reply #27 on:** November 20, 2007, 11:40:25 PM »

Cool Rabe Mustang.

That Ted Contri ship is way classy.
Chris...

Doug Moon · « **Reply #28 on:** November 21, 2007, 07:29:29 AM »

The jacket that guy is wearing AWESOME!!!! I love that 60s style race car driver jacket!! I love it!!!