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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Dwayne on October 19, 2009, 12:25:31 PM
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Hi could someone please post pics on how to mount landing gear in a foam wing.
Thank you
Dwayne
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can do easy
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Thanks Paul
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You just axed for pitchers, but here's little text to go along with them.
What I have here is a box beam spar that mounts both the landing gear and the bellcrank, and also joins the two wing halves. It's mostly balsa except for the hardwood channels for the landing gear and the hard points for the bellcrank. The landing gear is my standard torsion bar setup with the wire twisting in the channel and an anti-rotation bend near the centre of the wing.
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Thank you Bob
Dwayne
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Sorry for dragging up this old thread, but I figure it's probably the best place to tack on a few more questions.
Hopefully, If you're around Bob, you could help me get a bit of a better understanding of things.
One thing that's twisting my noggin is the method of securing the torsion bar upstand in the wing? are you mounting a plate near the top surface on the wing or is there something else keeping that upstand in the right place? I take it your cover plate is ply with a balsa fairing fitted to match the shape of the wing?
Another query is the main spar, is that just butt joined at the centre section?
Thanks,
Greg
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Bob, thanks so much for that, not only is the detail easily followed the photography is perfect and the building is sublime.
If a picture is worth a thousand words, I think I owe you about a million after that.
I beleive I am ready to stick some wheels out of my wing!
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Excellent tutorial in pictures. Nobody does it better. Not sure if anyone else does it period. I didnt need the lesson, but that was a perfect response with all the answers and not one sour note.
Kudos Mr. Robin
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Now you know why he one of the greatest in this hobby/sport. #^ #^
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Excellent tutorial in pictures. Nobody does it better. Not sure if anyone else does it period. I didnt need the lesson, but that was a perfect response with all the answers and not one sour note.
Kudos Mr. Robin
oh yeah,, well take this,,
Lemon drops
hows THAT for a sour response,, muah hahaha S?P
well done Mr Hunt,,
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If someone gives you lemon drops, make, uh, lemon drop aid...?
Thanks Mark, John and Doc for the comments. I have developed the habit of taking photos of virtually everything I do in the shop. It's amazing just how many How-To possibilities their are, but you need the photos to illustrate them. I'd suggest that everyone keep a digital camera charged and at the ready to record progress on a model. y1
Later - Bob Hunt
Bob, I keep a camera charged and at the ready, in fact I take lots of pictures,, but my model got really upset when I told her I was posting pictures of the progress I was making ,,
oh wait, different model huh,,
dang
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Fantastic tutorial in pictures Bob! Thank you.
I really like the baby flush cut saw xacto blade. What is the number on that one?
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Thank you Bob. I was looking at 38 and 39 where the parts were being brought to flush with the wing surface and immediately thought of a flush cut saw. They are springy and work great in the right situations but probably more for door jams then models I admit. ::)
I will have to try that blade.
-Mark
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Bob
I always have my cāmera, and take a lot of pics..
Why is it that they don't look as good as yours??? LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
Bob's how-to are the best in business.. and free for all!!
Not only a great builder/finisher and pilot, but a role moddel...
Marcus
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Marcus, it takes practice and more practice. I don't think I could live long enough to get the experience our Bobby Hunt has. Read the latest editorial in Flying Models I just received yesterday.
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Bob,
I have a cross cut flush cut Japanese style pull saw that I love when I get to use it. It is thin and cuts very quickly. I don't think you would even have to grind a safe edge on it, like the corners of a file, because none of the teeth kick out.
Mark
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Bob,
Here is one at Lowe's http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=375302-281-213103&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3612246&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=375302-281-213103&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3612246&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1)
Same sort of saw http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=88288-414-BS250D&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1103271&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=88288-414-BS250D&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1103271&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1)
Mine is not on its hook and is hiding somewhere in the garage right now otherwise I would check the brand.
Mark
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we share our grass circles with little critters that like to make holes, i have a hunt scorpio wing with wing mounted gear that i increased in size to 5/32 ,.after 3 years it is still as tight in the wing as it was the day i put it in.
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Actually, your timing for this (at least for me) is perfect, Bob. Thank you. :)
And for that matter, thanks for all the "how-to" posts and guides for building that you've put together over the past few years. It's made my slow-but-steady most recent build a lot less frustrating and a lot more rewarding.
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Anther "Thanks" to Bob for the great tutorial. This should be a "sticky".
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I agree, this topic would be a good one to "sticky" at the top. Who could do that? Hmmmm. Sparky, Randy, or maybe Bill Little?
I was wondering about putting a "plug-in" wire gear into either a foam or built-up structure, the way the the Ukrainians and others do. All I've got is a picture of Mike Haverly's plug-in tailwheel strut (see picture). I was thinking it would fit nicely against the spars and cause less interference with leadouts, tho you'd still want some plywood ribs to spread the load into the LE sheeting and LE cap, if one is used. The nicest thing is that you'd have a spanwise slot in the LE sheeting instead of the chordwise slot as I've seen in Eastern European stunters. It even might be possible to put some torsion bar in it, somehow, but I'm looking for ideas. And maybe instead of wire...molded CF? ??? Steve
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I have a question for Bob or any of you that think you can answer it (I hope its not too obvious, but I'm tired tonight!).
Why is the balsa block that holds down and boxes in the main landing gear mount plate wider at the wing inboard end than at the outboard end? I'm just curious if there is a structural reason for that? Because of more twisting force imparted?
I also am wondering if the main plate is "Lite Ply". It looks to be 1/8" light ply, with basswood strips forming the slot.
Last question is what thickness and material is the inner plate that bolts in. It looks like thinner regular ply to me, maybe 1/16" or 3/32" thick.
Thanks! That is an awesome picture essay.
Bob brings up a great point about documenting build. Not only are they useful for others, I have found them to be helpful to my own (RC) projects that I might sideline for a 2-3 year period. When I bring them out, if I have a build thread going, I just look back and refresh myself with what the plan was. Especially helpful with sheeted/v-bagged foam cores that later have servos to be installed in specific places.
R,
Chris