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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Mike Austin on November 02, 2008, 01:11:13 PM
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Gents,
Sarting to build my second control line wing after a RMS P-40 build that came out with a not so perfect wing. My question is with the Morris Lincoln Log system is there any problems with getting a good hinge center on the trailing edge with the laminated TE? I've used both Robart and standard Dubro hinges with success but fear the glue joint on the TE will cause problems. Or am I seeing this wrong from the pics displayed in the one of the forum threads earlier?
Thanks,
Mike A.
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Mike,
You might consider Tom's cloth (dacron) hinges; otherwise, I think some hinge blocks just forward of the T.E., at each hinge location, would be advisable.
A hinge-width gap in the 1/16 T.E. piece would leave a slot for the hinge, but the slot would be a bit thicker than optimum.
Jim
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Thanks Jim, that's an option. I plan to makeup a test piece and try some to see how it goes. It may not be that big a deal using the small dubro hinges. I like to build wings with CA glue but this may not be the best for TE due to the way it soaks into the wood joint. Maybe good ole Ambroid would work. We'll see !!!
Mike
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I built my T-38 Talon with a Morris wing.
I had absolutely no problems with getting a good hinge center. The laminated trailing edge actually helped keep the hinge slots centered perfectly.
The laminations worked like a guide and each hinge was dead on. I use a Great Planes hinge slotting tool.
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It's not really a problem. As seen in the pictures, the 1/16" strip makes a perfect guide to center the hinges.
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What glue did you both use for the TE lamination? I tried some ambroid as a test and was not real thrilled with the bond. I'll have to get me one of those hinge slotters from great planes, seems like a cool tool.
Thanks,
Mike
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What glue did you both use for the TE lamination?
I used CYA for the entire wing. No problems, just don't use o ton of it.
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As opposed to laminating the trailing edge with 1/16 sheet in the center use 1/32 and build the hinge gap in the wing while the trailing edge is being laminated, absolutely in the center and the pockets are already formed.
The small amount of thickness lost can be made up by carefully trimming the additional thickness at the tail of the rib to enable the trailing edge to remain at its designed thickness.
BTW I really like building the wings in this manner although I add Spruce diamonds at the center section to add bending strength and as a bellcrank mount.
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Yes, I saw a pic posted somewhere on this it's totally slick. After looking at my kit (Brodak Essentor)again I noticed the wing does not have a flat leading edge but a 1/2" sq stock tuned on it's side. Jim at CLC indicated the Lincoln jig would not be suited for this design. His very nice alum angles jig setup looks cool but he's currently out of stock. So, I'm studing other ways to skin this cat. Probably start the fuse this weekend and wait on the wing.
Mike
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You can use the Lincoln log jig if you cut more blocks to hold the leading edge, stack the blocks up and make two passes across the saw and you have blocks to hold the square leading edges set on edge.
Busby
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Yes, I saw a pic posted somewhere on this it's totally slick. After looking at my kit (Brodak Essentor)again I noticed the wing does not have a flat leading edge but a 1/2" sq stock tuned on it's side. Jim at CLC indicated the Lincoln jig would not be suited for this design. His very nice alum angles jig setup looks cool but he's currently out of stock. So, I'm studing other ways to skin this cat. Probably start the fuse this weekend and wait on the wing.
Mike
I have used the Lincoln Log method for several airplanes and used the CLC Jig for a couple. They both take time to set up properly. As far as the leading edge needing to go into a V notch, I glued triangle stock to the jigs to make a V notch for the leading edge to rest into. I think I show that on the start of my P-39 build I did way long time ago. I would post a picture, but, grand kids have wiped out all my photos. The big secret is to make sure your work surface is level or that all the center lines of the blocks are level with each other. I now have a laser level from Harbor Freight that does a good job of that as well as a 4 foot level I used on initial set-up of the CLC Jig. Have fun, DOC Holliday
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Adapting these jigs to use 1/4" sq stock leading edge material rotated to 45 degrees, is pretty easy if you have the use of a router and router table. I made a bunch of adapters from 1/2" sq hard wood. Get a bit that will make a 90 degree Vee grove in the hardwood, then cut to legnths you need.
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I have access to a table saw so tomorrow I'll work on some test jigs. Busby's idea sounds good as does the router v groove approach.
Mike