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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Bob Reeves on January 28, 2008, 08:53:19 AM
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In the middle of building and converting a SIG Somethin'Extra into a stunt ship. Finish is going to be Monokote as close to the box as I have the covering skill to do.
If you look close to the attached picture (sorry this is the largest one I could find on the net) you will see a very thin line following the outline of the purple Monokote. I will probably leave this off but was wondering if anyone had any idea as to how they did that. It might be striping tape but really think it's Monokote cut to the pattern outline. I don't believe it's possible to duplicate the curves and points with striping tape but could be wrong. Also trying to match the color with tape might be tough.
Also what would be a good filler to use under Monokote, would light weight spakling(sp) work? Would want something easy to sand and that heat wouldn't bother when applying the covering.
Thanks
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Bob, I can't tell the color of that thin stripe (looks like black?), but they probably used MonoKote for it. They make a stripe cutter that could make that thin strip for you. Just use really low heat to iron it on so it doesn't melt the thin piece. I think the tool is called a SmartStripe or something like that. It cuts on a roller.
Here it is. http://www.monokote.com/accys/topr2420.html
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Being it's a Sig plane I'd say the covering is Sig's Aerokote. Give them a call and ask.
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Thanks Clint,
That photo isn't the greatest.. On the kit box is a large photo that shows the color scheme well and the stripe is the same color as the Monokote. Just so happens I bought one of the stripe cutting machines at a swap meet for almost nothing but have never used it. Might be time to give it a trial run..
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Being it's a Sig plane I'd say the covering is Sig's Aerokote. Give them a call and ask.
Might be... I already ordered and have the Monokote.. Have had this kit for 4 or 5 years, started to build it 5 or 6 times. Everytime I started it I got hung up on how best to shorten the fuselage and increase the aspect of the wing and stab as the numbers are too far off the norm for a CL stunt ship.
This time I decided to copy the TF Score numbers as I know it flys well and it's comming together pretty good. It's for sure going to be one of a kind.. Would have sold the kit along time ago or never bought it cept my companies name is Somethin'Xtra Inc. just had to have a Somethin'Extra for CL. This is why I would like to finish it as close as I can to the kit box picture.
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I've got one also and have had thoughts of converting to C/L. I'd be interested in seeing how you do it. How about some pics of the build ?? Also details would be great. Thanks
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That's the airplane with the two piece wing, isn't it. My bro did several of those for R/C. He found a big problem with the plans and building instructions. The way the wing assembly is laid out, the wing gets a built in warp from the way the TE is set up, better check that! The tip section is thinner than the root, but they don't show a thicker shim at the tip for the spar, but the same thickness shim for the TE.
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This was the start,, Shortened the nose by about an inch, made light ply doublers to replace the kit balsa doublers and made a cutout for the stab duplicating the Score tail moment.
Replacing the doubler was necessary to facilitate a wing cut out as the kit doubler is like swiss cheese in the wing area. I used the kit doublers for a pattern and the nose was shortened by shortening the tank compartment.
It will either be powered with the Saito 62 shown or a Golden Knight 56, will probably end up with the Golden knight as the open nose really shows off the engine. The only real difference between it and a Score will be the engine thrust line is close to being in-line with the wing instead of being higher. The Score is a little top heavy so this should be a better deal.. I hope..
It's quite a bit farther along now but this is the only photo I have taken. I built the top turtle deck per the plans with the exception of carving blocks to fit the very rear of the fuselage. Cut down the rudder to better fit the new stab and move it forward.
Also am building the front cockpit and nose sheeting right on the fuselage instead of making a hatch like the plans show. Going to put a hatch in the bottom for tank compartment access.. Need to order a set of wheels so I can see if the stock landing gear will give me enough clearance for a 13 inch prop, they look awful short.
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That's the airplane with the two piece wing, isn't it. My bro did several of those for R/C. He found a big problem with the plans and building instructions. The way the wing assembly is laid out, the wing gets a built in warp from the way the TE is set up, better check that! The tip section is thinner than the root, but they don't show a thicker shim at the tip for the spar, but the same thickness shim for the TE.
That problem is documented on a web site I found a couple years ago when I was comtenplating using the kit wing. Decided not to use the kit wing or stab in favor of a more conventional (for stunt) aspect ratio 670 or so sq/in wing and a new stab. It's really no longer going to be a Somethin'Extra but what the heck...
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Thanks Bob, Take more pics and show the wing please. Fuse looks good.
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Hi Bob,
I do not claim to be an expert at applying plastic film type coverings but what I usually do is sand as many of the imperfections as I can out of the balsa and then apply a couple of coats of Balsarite or Sig Stixit. This gives good adhesion between the film and the substrate and serves as a filler too. I have wanted to try preparing the balsa just like I do when I apply silkspan or polyspan (50/50 nitrate dope and thinner and then 50/50 of the same with talcum powder as filler) and then apply the film. I havent done that so I do not know how that would work.
Mike
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Thanks mike..
Everytime I have tried to put film over dope I ended up with bubbles I wasn't able to get out. Maybe used too much heat but it was enough of a disaster for me to not try it again. I believe it was Walter Hicks that puts Monokote over doped silkspan and it turns out great but I would be afraid to try it.
What I'm looking for is something to use to fill a few pretty deep dings and the joint between the front sheeting and fuselage sides before I cover it. Never tried light weight Spackle under monokote and was wondering if the heat would melt it or otherwise mess it up.
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Bob I would try Micro-fill on a test piece and see what happens. I would think it should be OK.
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I have used hardware store spackle for years with excellent results.
Perry Rose