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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Gerald Arana on September 04, 2018, 04:36:37 PM
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Has anyone tried to attach Mono coat over Rustolium 2X? Does the paint bubble up? Will the MC stick?
Inquiring minds want to know! y1
Jerry
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Havent tried that.. but Rusto 2x sticks on monokote quite well.
You can see in my twister pics. The green monokote actually is 1/8" from the fuse. 2k clear shot afterwards. Works good!!
Didnt even scuff it.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180904/ff64fc31bc20f73ed03eae571c759990.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180904/93547858452987c0cec305921071d756.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180904/a799f313a53ce2f093c2a542a8ad448b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180904/da30e648340ef4fe6ecd40c9ce912f15.jpg)
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Put the Monokote down first. D>K
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that's the way I did my (now deceased) skyray 35. I painted and cleared the fuse, gave it a day to bake in the awesome Ohio summer sun, and then applies covering. I didn't worry about masking the wing panels off at all. it worked just dandy! however, if you touch the painted surface with your iron, it'll get paint on it. I didn't see any error in the paint as a result, however.
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that's the way I did my (now deceased) skyray 35. I painted and cleared the fuse, gave it a day to bake in the awesome Ohio summer sun, and then applies covering. I didn't worry about masking the wing panels off at all. it worked just dandy! however, if you touch the painted surface with your iron, it'll get paint on it. I didn't see any error in the paint as a result, however.
If you use an Iron you can be careful and not ruin the paint... i learn the hardway with my Firecat and my heatgun lol. Fuselage started to bubble.
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that's the way I did my (now deceased) skyray 35. I painted and cleared the fuse, gave it a day to bake in the awesome Ohio summer sun, and then applies covering. I didn't worry about masking the wing panels off at all. it worked just dandy! however, if you touch the painted surface with your iron, it'll get paint on it. I didn't see any error in the paint as a result, however.
Hi Doc, Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. Buy, I wanted to avoid having to mask off the MC.......Oh well, guess that's the way I'll do it to avoid bubbling the paint. (Thanks Jamie)
Jerry
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I have had no problems with monokote over rustoleum 2x or rustoleum 2x over monokote. I let the paint dry 2 weeks so fully cured.
Phil
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I have had no problems with monokote over rustoleum 2x or rustoleum 2x over monokote. I let the paint dry 2 weeks so fully cured.
Phil
Hi Phil,
I took Doc' advice and put the MC on yesterday. Now I'm going to wait for the "dope" on the top of the wing to gas of for a week or so and then paint it with 2X.
Thanks for the reply, Jerry
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Hi Phil,
I took Doc' advice and put the MC on yesterday. Now I'm going to wait for the "dope" on the top of the wing to gas of for a week or so and then paint it with 2X.
Thanks for the reply, Jerry
If you are using actual dope be careful.
Rustoleum will go over dope just fine
Dope will go over Rustoleum just fine
Here is the tricky part
Dope over Rustoleum over dope will create an epic mess.
Balsarite over Rustoleum over dope will create an epic mess also.
Wiping Rustoleum over dope down with anything that will soften dope will cause the dope underneath to release the Rustoleum in pretty short order. Enamel paints are rather porous to VOCs.
Otherwise no problem!
Phil
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I don't know why anyone is still using dope on a profile. I used WATER based Polyurethane and sand it almost all off. Recoat with a 2nd coat brushed thin on the surface and sand that down.If you have done your prep sanding before the Urethane you will have a nice smooth surface. Spray one Thin coat of white or Grey auto primer and wet sand with 400 and make sure that the surface is completely smooth. Water based Urethane dries in 2 hours and can be re coated in 3. Spray primers are not 24 hour cures either. Rustoleum is 24 hour or more and make sure that if you need to recoat anything that you do it within 1 hour from the first coat. otherwise it is a 48 hour wait.
the paint will wrinkle if you don't follow that instruction My paint jobs are not first row but I guarantee you they are not the last row either.
Advantages, less time to completion. None of that stinking dope. Less coats needed. Guaranteed results no iffy peeling paint. Weight is almost comparable to a dope/Rustolium finish. The very slight difference in weight means that you can fly in more wind than an ultralight model.
I know someone will chime in that it will be too heavy ,not so and the response is I've seen some that were too light for anything but calm weather.
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The very slight difference in weight means that you can fly in more wind than an ultralight model.
I know someone will chime in that it will be too heavy ,not so and the response is I've seen some that were too light for anything but calm weather.
Ted Fancher thinks the same thing as do I. Real light planes are fine (indoors) and in very clam air, but have you been to more than one contest in your life time where it wasn't less than ideal conditions?!
I've seen experts fly in VERY strong wind (that I wouldn't fly in) and their ships were blown around pretty good. Especially the "light" ones.
Tight lines, Jerry
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Dennis,
Do you cover the fuse/stab-elevator-rudder-flaps with silkspan to seal the grain and use the Poly to adhere it? Do you use the poly on the open? Is the poly fuel proof? Do you use "Death Paint" as the finish coat?
Best, DennisT