Really struggling to get decent balsa.  So I've been experimenting using a Teosawki type construction on a flapped model.

Balsa used.... 4 sheets of 1/16", 2 sheets of 1/8" and 1/2 a sheet of 1/2", all about 7-8 lb wood.

Elevator and flaps are glassed 6mm Depron with carbon tows.
The rear fuselage is 3 layers of 6mm Depron glassed.
The spars are spruce, the webs are 6mm depron and the 1/2 ribs are 6mm Depron.
The tailplane is a 3mm Depron core with 3mm balsa structure top and bottom.
The fin is glassed depron.
Wingtips are glassed and hollowed blue foam.

The front fuselage carries back to the TE and is a 1/2" balsa core with 2 laminations of 1/16" ply on both sides.

Covering is laminating film over polyester tissue.  Inkjet decal markings.
I used 80gm glass cloth, overkill maybe? but the parts are very, very stiff.

Ready to fly weight 48oz. Early days trimming wise but shows great promise.

Steve

 

Had many short 1/2 tank trimming flights today.  Got the wings level with just some extra tip-weight.  Altered the handle spacings to get equal inside and outside loops. The jig-built wings must have come out pretty straight as I can see no reason to tweak anything.

The 46la is recently converted from RC and wasn't working for me, wouldn't needle on the ground. I quickly ditched the remote needle-valve and inside tank Idea for a standard profile setup, to no avail.  Next outing I'll try a known good engine and take with me a known good tank to find the problem.
I don't want to ditch the unorthodox engine slant just yet.  The idea of the engine placement like this is to give a correct vertical CG and still use the stock muffler.  Might need a balsa trippler in the nose if vibration is the issue?  Didn't anticipate vibration problems with the nose made from so much balsa and ply.  2 laminations of 1/16th ply each side of 1/2" balsa.

Steve

Really struggling to get decent balsa.  So I've been experimenting using a Teosawki type construction on a flapped model.

Balsa used.... 4 sheets of 1/16", 2 sheets of 1/8" and 1/2 a sheet of 1/2", all about 7-8 lb wood.

Elevator and flaps are glassed 6mm Depron with carbon tows.
The rear fuselage is 3 layers of 6mm Depron glassed.
The spars are spruce, the webs are 6mm depron and the 1/2 ribs are 6mm Depron.
The tailplane is a 3mm Depron core with 3mm balsa structure top and bottom.
The fin is glassed depron.
Wingtips are glassed and hollowed blue foam.

The front fuselage carries back to the TE and is a 1/2" balsa core with 2 laminations of 1/16" ply on both sides.

Covering is laminating film over polyester tissue.  Inkjet decal markings.
I used 80gm glass cloth, overkill maybe? but the parts are very, very stiff.

Ready to fly weight 48oz. Early days trimming wise but shows great promise.

Steve

Steve, this is really cool.  I applaud you thinking outside of the box.

  If that is the way you had the other engine mounted with the tank inboard, your biggest problem might just be in keeping the pickup/feed like to the venturi as short as possible. An inboard tank should start out a little leaner on the ground and go richer in the air when speed and CF build up. Finding the correct tank height might be different from what you are used to. I have never tried to  run a cocked engine like that but I understand what you are doing, and I think it should run OK like that.  I remember reading something a long time ago that there is supposed to be an advantage to running your engine with the cylinder head at 8 o'clock and the muffler in line under the nose of the fuselage. Keep us posted on results but what you have here should work, I think.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

I was 'just' on the phone with Dan McEntee....we were talking all the doom and gloom about balsa prices/availability.  Then your thread popped up....how refreshing/encouraging. 

Early engine problems was caused by a leaky plastic backplate, should have known better!


With repairs and  extra tip/ tail weight I'm now at 51oz.  Not much headroom for a nice paint job!

My next build will be something similar using the same construction techniques.  Maybe I'll mess with the MoBest outlines and think of a snappy name and pass it off as an own design? There might be copyright issues with the MoBest?

Steve

Blue foam wingtips.

Roughly shaped, solid blue foam wingtips are tack glued in placed and shaped and sanded.
 
After removal from the wing the wingtips are glassed with IIRC 4oz. cloth. Twill weave drapes better than plain weave.

The wingtips are hollowed out with Dremel sanding drum to about 1/8" thickness. Periodically, hold the wingtip up to the light to see if there are any thicker areas that needs more attention. Also use your fingertips to feel for even thickness.

Steve