Brett,
Good information to know, I like the spread it out on the foil tip. I have used the LHS brand (I think it is Bob Smith that they product for LHS label?) 30 min epoxy and 20 min finshing resin. The 30 min takes several hours to cure the finishing resin only a couple. Their 15 min epoxy is brittle, I don't use this. I have not found anything like the old hobby epoxy 2hr stuff in small quantities.
Best, DennisT
EZ-Lam 30-minute is better for almost anything I would have used Hobbypoxy Formula 2, and has much more pot life since the self-heating it negligible. The reason I did not use this instead of the Devcon was that the "30 minutes" is a very conservative pot life, at the temperatures I am going to have, the solid cure is more like 36 hours.
I would have (and did) use the supposedly same Devcon 30-minute instead of Hobbypoxy Formula II for putting the LE sheeting on my Noblers. It's just that this batch is much faster than the older batches of supposedly the same thing.
As a meta-comment, I suppose everyone knows not to follow Aldrich's directions from the plans to build the wing "in the air", leaving the glue off the spar, until you are almost done, then twisting it straight and gluing it to the ribs and sheeting. The idea was to not let the glue holding the ribs to the spars shrink and pull in a twist, but you also can't sand it properly for the ribs to fit - and some of them are die-cut slightly oversize. I forget which ones, I knew back in the day.
When I was building them on a semi-production line back in the 70's, I had a saddle jig that held each rib. That is long gone, but I did have some cores I cut for it back in the early 80s, so I used the cradles as a jig, and the core as a mold for the LE sheeting. Gluing the sheeting on more-or-less determines the shape you will have, straight or crooked, and after you do that, it is extremely stiff and nearly impossible to straighten out without cutting something. So you have to hold it straight when applying the sheeting. And don't use Ambroid, that guarantees a "starved horse" effect.
Brett
p.s. I would also point out that I am building this more-or-less straight from the kit - actually, parts from at least 4 different kits, including a fin/rudder from my last build effort in 1979. I picked out the best individual sheets of die-cut parts from the kits I had, but have subbed most of the sheeting from some that I won in a contest that Walt Ghio ran, giving out good balsa as a prize. I am also amazed that I used to be able to throw one of these things together in less than a week. My standards may not have been as high, then, perhaps.