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Author Topic: Min. thickness for fuse sides  (Read 2071 times)

Offline Gordon Tarbell

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Min. thickness for fuse sides
« on: November 04, 2008, 07:08:28 PM »
I have a set of plans from the mid sixties of a plane I plan to power with a DS60lite ring (10 3/4oz.) . The plans don't have all the details. what would be the min. thickness for the fuse sides(balsa) I was thinking 3/32" with 1/16"ply doublers from the nose to the high point of wing.Top block is carved and hollowed from 1"x2-3/8" block , bottom is showing1/4" sheet rounded to conform. Do I need to go to 1/8"sides with 1/16"ply nose doublers. I want it light but not a wet noodle.
Gordon Tarbell AMA 15019

Offline Gordon Tarbell

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2008, 07:14:00 PM »
Nose ring to LE is 10", hinge line to hinge line is only 14" . It will be classic legal so I don't want to move numbers around. I hope to build to min weight to maxamize its flying given such a long nose and short tail numbers. 700" wing area.
Gordon Tarbell AMA 15019

Offline James Mills

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2008, 10:09:54 PM »
I think the 3/32" sides would be fine (not real sure how much weight difference between that and 1/8").  It may be beneficial to use whichever thickness you have that has the best C-grain.

James
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Offline EddyR

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2008, 10:23:01 AM »
During the late 80's early 90's a lot of Pampa planes were built with 3/32 sheet for the fuse sides. They had to use a lot of formers to get a ridged body.Most had one thing in common is they looked like boxes. I used 1/8 and even 3/16 on most of my planes. The reason for the 3/16 is I can find very very light 3/16 and I then can sand the body into a oval shape very easy with out adding extra stringers where the body meets the top block. These models built this way came out lighter and stronger than the 3/32 jobs.
Ed
Locust NC 40 miles from the Huntersville field

Offline Busby

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #4 on: November 05, 2008, 12:58:56 PM »
Tom Morris designs an awful lot of his airplanes using 1/16 sides ,for example both the classic Cavalier and the 650 Cavalier use 1/16 for rear fuselage and 3/32 from the high point of the wing forward.
these are very stiff;although a foam R/C plane of about 42 1n wing span did hit it right in front of the rudder and took the tail off.
Busby
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2008, 10:22:43 AM »
The issue, of course, is to produce a structurally stiff unit. I've built planes from molded 1/16" balsa from nose to tail that were very rigid, but they were molded with many formers. The thinner the sides, the more formers it takes, generally.

These days, I tend to use 1/8" "C" grain sides from matched sheets. Cuts down on unintentional twists and warps.
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Offline Leo Mehl

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2008, 02:18:02 PM »
Ny Streghthening method on 3/32" sides and instead of formers I use geodetic sticks to hold fuseledge in shape so there are no heavy foermers and then use Carbon fibre push rod. Works for me. When I cracked the plane up the tail section that was geodic was still in tact but the nose was toast.

Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #7 on: November 06, 2008, 05:16:08 PM »
I've not used anything but 3/32 for fuse' sides since the early '90's.  I have two Crosswinds with over 500 flights each, one with soft mounts and one with maple beam mounts and they're both still in good shape.  The one I pancaked inverted at this year's nats is back in one piece with little effort, ready for finish.
All fuse' parts are molded with 6lb balsa, both are TP based areodynamically, and both use PA 65 or 75, whichever I'm in the mood for at the time.  Both weighed 61 to 63 oz.  (Note: I only used 1/32 ply for doublers, just enough hardwood to hardwood joint for the motor mounts.  We all tend to overbuild.  I do glass the nose back to the wing le.)
My old Sierra was molded balsa fuse with light 3/32, weighed 62 oz and, as far as I know, is still flying down Nashville way.  It's on it's second fuse' as I also managed to pancake it inverted.  Hmmmmmmmmmmmm???  What gives here?   ??? ???
Will   
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #8 on: November 06, 2008, 06:45:15 PM »
Ditto the 3/32" sides, plus a suggestion: instead of making the bulkheads straight sided curve them slightly - say about 3/32".  The curvature will add a lot of stiffness and strength and will also protect against the "starved horse" look.

Denny Adamisin
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Offline Gordon Tarbell

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2008, 08:25:56 PM »
Thanks Guys for the Ideas. I think the build article stated the weight at 62 or 64 oz. powered by a KB45(not sure how much they weigh)and veco extension(3/4") all tailfeathers are shown solid balsa . 1/2" on Elavator and 1/4" on rudder. I plan on using built up units to save weight. Airfoil is quite thick for its vintage. Tri Gear a nd swept tail. Elevator and stab are a little on the high side in relation to wing , was thinking of putting in a little positive incidence at front of Horz. stab. Thoughts? I have been waiting for years to build this plane and will start cutting wood in a couple of weeks .
Gordon Tarbell AMA 15019

Offline NOEL DRINDAK

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Re: Min. thickness for fuse sides
« Reply #10 on: November 10, 2008, 12:08:14 PM »
Gordon -- All of my Super Kestrels with PA65RE's have used 1/16-inch balsa fuse sides from the high point of the wing back.  The top and bottom are 1/16-inch molded shells and the formers are also of 1/16-inch balsa.  Many formers are necessary, both for strength and to prevent the hungry-horse look.  Mine are spaced 1 1/4-inches apart.  I laminate 0.2-ounce carbon-fiber mat to the inside of the sides and shells, and also to one side of each former.  The result is an extremely stiff and strong fuselage that is also very light (1.5-ounces for the fuse structure from the wing back).  Building like this is a lot of work, but the results are worth it to me.  My new Super Kestrel will use a PA65RE with the same structure.

Yours in Stunt,

Noel

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