Hey there all. I'm new here and must say what a fine forum this is. A vast Treasure of C/L intel.
I'm seem to be drawn back to the hobby after a 19 year lay-off and dug out an old Aerosmith Prowler Kit that I started and never finished. I have a Randy Smith modified OS FP-40 that I have never even started. Shameful, I know!
My query is this......as I read on here it seems rudder off-set ideas have changed over the years. Thinking of maybe adding hinges to the rudder and having a way to be able to change the off-set...or none at all.
Anyone have any experience with this plane? I also welcome opinion on this.
A big thankee in advance.
Shug

You could PM the designer Bob Hunt.  He is on this forum.

That I shall do then. Very convenient I must say.
Thankee for the info.
Shug

I have 2 Prowlers in work for the grandson's.   Not ready for the rudders yet. 

The kit is no longer available.  There were newspaper used as packing. If I remember correctly the dates were 1993.  The boys are currently flying Ringmasters and it wont be long before they are ready to move up.   

Hi Shug.  I am an intermediate/advanced flier, and I’ve built and flown a couple of Prowlers.  My first flyable Prowler featured a built up wing, a monokote finish and a stock OS 40FP.  I did not pay any attention to weight during its construction or the first few years of flying it.  It had the rudder glued with offset per the plans.  It flew pretty good, eventhough it did weigh 46 ounces, including about 1.5-2 ounces of tail weight.  It would go through winds that caused other fliers to sit out.

My second flyable Prowler featured a Lost Foam Wing with a molded leading edge.  Again, a monokote finish, powered by an AeroTiger 36.  Weight is 34 ounces with about an ounce of tail weight.  This time, I hinged the rudder.  With this plane, I won Intermediate at the Dallas contest last year.  I’ve never adjusted the rudder.

My non-expert opinion is not to bother hinging the rudder.  I would permanently offset it slightly, 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch, just to ensure it’s not offset toward the inside of the circle.  The plane flies great, just keep the nose as light as possible while maintaining stiffness.  When I was building my second Prowler, Bob Hunt told me they did not install the inside nose tripler with low vibration engines; it’s something to consider. (But I always liked the look of it!) 

Good luck and enjoy it!
Frank

Hi Shug.  I am an intermediate/advanced flier, and I’ve built and flown a couple of Prowlers.  My first flyable Prowler featured a built up wing, a monokote finish and a stock OS 40FP.  I did not pay any attention to weight during its construction or the first few years of flying it.  It had the rudder glued with offset per the plans.  It flew pretty good, eventhough it did weigh 46 ounces, including about 1.5-2 ounces of tail weight.  It would go through winds that caused other fliers to sit out.

My second flyable Prowler featured a Lost Foam Wing with a molded leading edge.  Again, a monokote finish, powered by an AeroTiger 36.  Weight is 34 ounces with about an ounce of tail weight.  This time, I hinged the rudder.  With this plane, I won Intermediate at the Dallas contest last year.  I’ve never adjusted the rudder.

My non-expert opinion is not to bother hinging the rudder.  I would permanently offset it slightly, 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch, just to ensure it’s not offset toward the inside of the circle.  The plane flies great, just keep the nose as light as possible while maintaining stiffness.  When I was building my second Prowler, Bob Hunt told me they did not install the inside nose tripler with low vibration engines; it’s something to consider. (But I always liked the look of it!)  

Good luck and enjoy it!
Frank

Hey Frank,
Mine has the sheeted foam wing. I do have it glued off-set according to the plans....did that 19 years ago! Thanks for the Prowler info. Makes me even more pumped to finish it and get it flying. My thought was to paint it but maybe I will Monokote it. Was not sure the monokote would go on the sheeted wings without bubbles. Again...been a while since I have applied any on a solid surface.
Congrats on the Intermediate in Dallas. Did your second one cut the wind as well as the first?
Already have all the front end done at this point. Can't wait to fire up and break in the 40 -FP.
Maybe I will just leave the rudder as is after hearing how your did. When I get home from this trip I will re-check it.
Thanks again.

I flew the one I built for about a season then passed it on where it remained in circulation until it's eventual demise. Great flying design...I remember it as flying similar to a Vector 40 I built later. The kit was put out by Scott Smith "Aerosmith" Models. He supplied foam wings cores for many models  during the Windy "Pro-Stunt" era. I'm sure that Bob still cuts foam wings for the model, possibly even has plans available, but kits, probably not.  

Whoooo Buddy)))) So good to hear it was a great flyer.Mine is a sheeted foam wing. I sure remember Windy. Is he still active in flying? Man could he build a purdy plane.
I thankee for the info.

Hi Shug,

The Prowler is a great flying model!  Just keep it reasonably light, and the .40FP should pull it real good.  My son built one for his second "contest" plane, powered it with a .40FP, also.  We still fly it for practice at times.  One of the best profiles around.  We glued the rudder on with about 1/8th" offset just to make sure it wasn't "inset".  Make sure to use adj. lead outs and a tip weight box!  Take the time to trim it well and you will enjoy flying it!

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

So happy to hear that it is a great flyer!
I appreciate the rudder info. I got the adjustable lead outs and there is a set screw for weights. Did you build a tip weight box for your Prowler?
Looking forward to trimming it out.......that will mean flying)))))
Did you ever do any flap to elevator tweaking on yours?
Thanks again.

Hey Shug,

Just stick with the .40 for this one and get it in the air! 

We did have to shorten the elev. pushrod (drooped the elev a bit) to get it to turn evenly for Aaron.  Also added about 1/4 to 1/2 oz to the tail to suit him.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Hey Shug,

Just stick with the .40 for this one and get it in the air! 

We did have to shorten the elev. pushrod (drooped the elev a bit) to get it to turn evenly for Aaron.  Also added about 1/4 to 1/2 oz to the tail to suit him.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Yeah....I more than likely will. It needs to run up after all these years of sitting in a box.
Thanks on the trim intel. Good to have those details.

I second what Bill said. All planes need a bit of "tweaking" to get them in trim. The advantage of profiles is that there is easy access to everything that needs to be adjusted.

Looking forward to when I can trim as it will mean flying. Thanks.