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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: rustler on February 19, 2009, 01:52:04 PM
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These days I make myself use all the stuff I've accumulated over the years "in case it comes in useful"!
I have some Micafilm. What type of colour dope is compatible? Nitrate? Butyrate? Epoxy? etc. etc.
I've used it before and notice it seems to "relax" a bit after a few years.
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My Micafilm instructions say dope is not compatible. I tried a test sample once, but it doesn't seem to grab the surface--it peels off easily. I believe even the primed version won't work.
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Are you sure, Alan? My instructions say just the opposite; that MicaFilm is paintable. I've used butyrate and epoxy several times, with no problems. Of course, most of my planes don't last long enough for paint problems to arise . :'(
Be sure to sand the surfaces well, and vacuum thoroughly. Paint on a coat of BalsaRite for Film, and test iron temperature. It doesn't need to be terribly hot. Additional supplies are available from Tower Hobbies (for the original Transparent Yellow and Red) and from BP Hobbies for other colors. The BP product is called "FibaFilm". Probably a good idea to wipe the surface with thinner prior to painting . . .
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As much as I hate to say it go to some of the old Stunt News and hunt the issue by Dan on the care and feeding article on how to use Micafilm. It was the most complete article on covering a stunt plane with light weight film.
Busby
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That is correct, Dan had some good advice, but I don't think that Dan ever painted his mica film. I think his was all stuck on there, and trim added with other film.
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Are you sure, Alan? My instructions say just the opposite; that MicaFilm is paintable. I've used butyrate and epoxy several times, with no problems. Of course, most of my planes don't last long enough for paint problems to arise . :'(
Be sure to sand the surfaces well, and vacuum thoroughly. Paint on a coat of BalsaRite for Film, and test iron temperature. It doesn't need to be terribly hot. Additional supplies are available from Tower Hobbies (for the original Transparent Yellow and Red) and from BP Hobbies for other colors. The BP product is called "FibaFilm". Probably a good idea to wipe the surface with thinner prior to painting . . .
I'll go check my instruction sheet again. The advice against dope was explicit (or so the memory cells recall). It didn't say all paint, just dope. I have painted some with Rustoleum and it seems to stick ok. However be careful, because if you overdo it you lose some advantage of the lightness. But it is strong stuff and once stuck down it is pretty tenacious with all the fibers sticking--and pulling away if you unhappily try to pull it off!
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As much as I hate to say it go to some of the old Stunt News and hunt the issue by Dan on the care and feeding article on how to use Micafilm. It was the most complete article on covering a stunt plane with light weight film.
Busby
So why would you hate to say what you said? Is not Stunt News good? Cannot Dan have some good advice?
I will be glad to delete this if you would like to reword your advice.
Keith
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I was doing what Dan is so fond of doing, " Its reaction Time".
It has been almost 40 years since I first meet Dan and he has been remarkably consistent in that time.
I enjoy reading his material and find it humorous while others find it objectionable.
The article on Micafilm was carefully thought out and well presented.
I have no problems with Stunt News or I would not have suggested it be reviewed.
Busby
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I'll go check my instruction sheet again. The advice against dope was explicit (or so the memory cells recall). It didn't say all paint, just dope. I have painted some with Rustoleum and it seems to stick ok. However be careful, because if you overdo it you lose some advantage of the lightness. But it is strong stuff and once stuck down it is pretty tenacious with all the fibers sticking--and pulling away if you unhappily try to pull it off!
So just checked the instruction sheet. It says:
Painting
1. Pre-Primed Micafim can be painted with Black Baron Epoxy, 2 part epoxies, polyurethanes, or enamels. NO SANDING OR PRIMING REQUIRED!
2.--stuff about using BB Clear if you are happy with the color of the pre-primed.
3. Do not use dopes or lacquers! They do not provide adequate adhesion.
4. All Micafilm is totally fuelproof, including pre-primed.....
I notice on rereading, it is talking about the pre-primed (a grey colored product) and nothing about the colored versions---these instructions came with a colored roll. So they really are making no comment about the colored stuff, so I wonder if anything works well on it.
I remember Dan's Stunt News articles on Micafilm--I think they were mainly in his old district column. Without going back and looking, I recall he recommended a Micafilm/Monocote hybrid, with I think the Monocote being the top trim-like layer, providing a sealing function.
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I just re-read the instructions, too. The last thing said is, "Accepts most paints. (But test first)". Also says Fuel-proof. but (Gasp!) the current listings for MicaFilm on the Tower website says, "THIS IS NOT FUEL-PROOF". (Caps are theirs) Now I don't know what's going on.
Perhaps I should mention that my MicaFilm is in the old "square tube" plastic packages. Maybe something changed over the years . . .
The current alternative, FibaFilm from BP Hobbies is fuel-proof.
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I just re-read the instructions, too. The last thing said is, "Accepts most paints. (But test first)". Also says Fuel-proof. but (Gasp!) the current listings for MicaFilm on the Tower website says, "THIS IS NOT FUEL-PROOF". (Caps are theirs) Now I don't know what's going on.
Perhaps I should mention that my MicaFilm is in the old "square tube" plastic packages. Maybe something changed over the years . . .
The current alternative, FibaFilm from BP Hobbies is fuel-proof.
Well I have no idea what Tower is talking about. I've been using MicaFilm for over 10 years or so. I just checked and see what you mean by the Tower notes. I think they flipped out! n~
I've never seen MicaFilm in the form factor you mention. Mine (in rolls sort of like typical covering material) was originally distributed (when I bought it) by Coverite. I think my instruction sheet says at least 4 times that it is "totally (or 100%) fuelproof" y1. Except for that one section on painting I mentioned, there is nothing else about painting at all.
I would try a test dope strip and see how it goes. Like I mentioned before, the one time I tried dope seemed to confirm the instruction sheet.
The stuff is pretty tough.
Here was a covering job on a Brodak Lightening Streak. The fuse paint was yellow Lustrecote. There is a slight paint overlap at the seam. Just checked the actual plane and the paint layer looks ok. I really like the way the material looks.