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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: M Spencer on August 07, 2015, 09:39:42 PM
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Everybody knows how to laminate a Wing Tip .
The deadly serious part is cutting out the Template . >:(
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Stuck the timber ( 1/16 laminations ) under the tap at the Max. Curve area ,
used PVA on one face ( inner ) of the second Lam. on , spread even.
Rubber band around across chord to hold them while fitting .
Ive marked the spar / LE cuts etc on the template , so they get cut right.
Once theyre all on , masking tape at spar pulling Em In , and following out - rolling the assembly on the board to Tighten the Joint
as you go .
Ive left the thing on the template for 24 hours , and it didnt ' spring ' like the last ones . Though the woods a good deal softer ,
you dont have to use your best wood for these , as the Glue is Half the Strength .
These are for the plank wing Mk 8 / Mk 11 Spitfire .
Take care the cut edge of the templates good and square . I rasped , filed and block sanded it after cutting with the old handsaw .
its 3/4 Pine . the Building supply had none in its skip the last few months , so I had to buy a 2 ft. offcut for $ 4.20 . :##
The skips good for ' sets ' of offcuts , like 1 in x 3/8 in. , to use for packers & things when building, and straight planks of a few foot for weighting down & aligning stuff . And stuff about 4 x 3 for canopy & deck moulds .
Got to do a nasty Deck or Two over a Plug ; so I will throw the pictures here in a few weeks , We Hope . As In when I doim . D>K H^^
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That's exactly how I do it. I cut out a shape from 1/4" ply, then nail that onto another piece of ply. After coating the whole thing with some soap, the wet strips are wrapped around the form and secured with several small nails in the ply to hold it together. I use Titebond glue.
Floyd
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Right . have it on the plug here . Like the other one .
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That's real modeling.
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All of my rubber scale builds have laminated tips using basically the same techniques as above. The only difference is I put them in the microwave oven to dry while secured to the form for 'instant' laminations. Keep the power on low for ~20 second bursts until dry or the balsa WILL catch fire.
Haven't tried Titebond. Spray adhesive works well for forming the wet planks to each other. After the cure, thin cyano is applied along the edges before removal from the form.
Ara
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Matt,
You do really good work and it's nice to see old methods of modeling used today.
Good for you! H^^ H^^
Ara,
A tissue guy, I can't believe it. Excellent. We had a field of tall grass, straw, whatever that stuff was and absolutely no dammage to our rubber powered models.
I'm guessing tissue markings, as it was done back then?
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Matt,
I'm guessing tissue markings, as it was done back then?
Invasion stripes - Model Master paint
All other markings - tissue