Can someone explain how to properly install these so they don't bind because of vertical or horizontal misalignment? Assume the model is painted and the hinge points are about to be installed followed by the elevators and flaps.

Thanks for the information Randy.

I should have done a Internet search search before I made this post as this subject is covered on the Robart web site as well as in detail here:
http://airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/construction/hinge_points/05.htm

The only people I ever new that didn't like them were those that never used them.

They have an absolute advantage with some scale applications.

Besides, change your mind, you can always use the Heimlich maneuver to pop them out. 

  Thanks Dennis for posting that website.
     Doug

Charles,

Sorry I missed the joke.  Looking back, that's really pretty funny.  I didn't mean any offense, just trying to clear up any misunderstanding.

Paul

Can someone explain how to properly install these so they don't bind because of vertical or horizontal misalignment? Assume the model is painted and the hinge points are about to be installed followed by the elevators and flaps.

Well, I will try to explain.  I have been using Robart type Hinge Points for years on all of my stunt and scale airplanes.  Also, the hinges are not installed until everything is completely painted.  First, I install the Hinge Points in the elevators, flaps, (and the rudder for the Rabe rudder operation thing).  I use slow setting epoxy (30 minutes or more) for the entire operation.  The hinge line is positioned in the desired position relative to the leading edge of the respective elevators, flaps (and rudder).  Great care is used to make sure the position of those Hinge Point hinges is perpendicular to the leading edges.  This is accomplished by use of the small Robart drilling fixture  that almost guarantees a perpendicular hole for the hinge.  Also, you can sight down those pivot points to see that they are in line and you can tell they are properly rotated in their holes by deflecting the loose end and see if it is perpendicular to its respective flap, elevator (rudder).

After the epoxy has set, carefully mark where those hinge points are to go in the wing and elevator trailing edges (and rudder post).  Those holes can also be drilled using that drilling fixture.  (If there is a mismatch in the drilling of these holes, it might be necessary to ream out those hole so that the hinges do not bind when inserted into position  If this occurs, just use more epoxy when doing the final installation.)  Then carefully apply epoxy to the loose ends of the hinge points by not placing any more than fills the barbed areas.  A spot of epoxy in each hole, then insert the flaps, elevator (rudder) hinges.  Use some kind of spacers between the flaps, elevators (rudder) and the respective trailing edges along the span of the moving surfaces to maintain the desired and constant distance between those moving and fixed surfaces.  (I usually use either small strips of 1/64" ply or 1/32" ply for those spacers.)  When the epoxy has set, simply remove the spacers and bingo, your moving surfaces are done, aligned and properly positioned.

Now, there is a little thing to do if there is any concern of getting epoxy in the actual pivot pin during either of the epoxy operations explained above.  Apply a small portion (as in a "dab") of Vaseline ^(TM) over the pivot pin area before adding any epoxy to the Hinge Point.  After the epoxy has cured, you can wipe off the excess Vaseline ^(TM) and any that remains around the pin acts as a decent lubricant.  (I recommend the use of any sand free petroleum jelly for this process.)

Keith