After yakking about it for a while, I'm ready to start working on a Twister kit. Obviously, I can't use Ambroid or Hobby Poxy.
So do I just get tubes of Sigment, some sort of CA, and what brand of 30 minute epoxy?
Get medium and thin Cyanoacrylate for general construction, and 5 and 30 minute epoxy. Any brands are OK, you are just gluing balsa. I use Zap brand thin CA, and Hot Stuff Super-T, but any of them will do. I use large amounts of medium and some thin for basic construction, and epoxy only for doublers. I use different brands of epoxy for lamination, West Systems or EZ-LAM - West for general adhesive, and EZ-LAM for laimination. The brand does matter a bit for some applications. EZ-LAM is remarkable for lack of self-heating and thus long pot life, which is particularly important for sheeting foam wings. Otherwise, anything is OK, hardware store Devcon is fine.
For the doublers on a twister, I would use Hot Stuff Super-T, as described in the Bill and Bob Hunter videos. The others are a little too fast to cure. You really have to be confident in your actions doing it this way, and work very quickly. I have done it with thick CA on one surface, and accelerator on the other, but It is no better but a little more forgiving. My problem is that it always goes bad and the accelerator evaporates between my very rare uses.
My airplanes are built almost entirely with medium CA adhesives including the (very large) doublers and the engine mounts, EZ-Lam epoxy to sheet the foam, epoxy in tiny amounts mostly for fuel-proofing. One can say what they want, but my airplanes last a very long time.
SIG-Ment, Titebond (I), and other air-drying adhesives will also work, but take a lot of jigging and pinning which is essentially non-existent with CA. Given a choice for general construction, while I have built *many* airplanes in the distant past with Ambroid and SIG-Ment (and UHU and Duco, and other "model cement"s.), those are not nearly as good in general as Titebond (I) - much more difficult to deal with, no "grab", and poor penetration.
Note also that you should never use *any* air-drying glue or cement for doublers. Titebond will eventually diffuse into the wood well enough, but I am not sure how long it takes. But I have seen airplanes that had aircraft ply "bonded" with Ambroid that crashed, and found the Ambroid still liquid in the middle of the doubler. It seals along the edges and otherwise, it's like putting it into a container otherwise. Titebond is better used for this by putting a thin layer on each surface, letting it dry, and then ironing it on with a clothes or monokote iron, using it like a heat-activated adhesive.
Brett