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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Dennis Toth on May 22, 2022, 07:55:20 AM
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I am getting to the point where the top block is finished shaped and I need to get the canopy ready to install. This is a sewn Barnstormer canopy in the past I would just sit it on the block and glue it in place. I am wondering if maybe with this canopy being a bit springy if I should lay it out and cut a groove to sit it into then add a small fillet to cover the groove? What have you guys done?
Best, DennisT
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I am getting to the point where the top block is finished shaped and I need to get the canopy ready to install. This is a sewn Barnstormer canopy in the past I would just sit it on the block and glue it in place. I am wondering if maybe with this canopy being a bit springy if I should lay it out and cut a groove to sit it into then add a small fillet to cover the groove? What have you guys done?
Best, DennisT
I grove and fillet all of mine. Always have. The Canopy goes on as soon as the cockpit detail is finished and double masked so I don't damage it. The double mask lets me sand into the tape for a clean edge.
Ken
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i usually mask the outside of the canopy, sand a lip of 1/8 with 150 grit sandpaper ( outside) and run a mix of epoxy/micro baloon
no need to groove as the apoxy outside will press the canopy firmly and it cannot colapse to the inside due to the oval shape
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I sand the area where the canopy will sit so I get a real nice fit, then use 30 minute epoxy to glue in place. I have used both super fill and fiberglass resin with micro balloons for the fillet, followed by careful sanding with good results. Good luck.
Don
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I do much like Don Jenkins above. Notice the relief on the turtle deck. Except............
I use RC-56 adhesive. It is meant specifically for plastics and is more ductile than epoxy when cured. I also now use it for hinges.
I did use 30-minute epoxy for years, but now prefer the RC-56
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R%%%%
I am having a hard time getting a canopy to glue. Seems the only place you can find Sig canopies anymore is Sig. They want $15 shipping for a $5 canopy. Everything is ARF replacements. Found one that looked decent for $16 on the Bay - $17 shipping. Horizon had them for $14 - $16 shipping. HobbyKing - nothing but ARF replacements. Hobbytown - on backorder for almost everything. I had a drawer full before the fire, always buy two. One for the plane and one for the repair following the inverted landing. Had a lot of the leftovers. For $35 just for the canopy I can start to warm up to balsa, but I will never like it.
And then I went to Tower for one last shot at it. $10 for 2 and $4 shipping. The life of a 2x2x3 balsa block has just been spared. #^
Ken
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Ken,
Shipping is the big problem for many items. I have been able to call and order in to Brodak for things I didn't need quick and had them ship in normal mail not priority and it was reasonable, worth a try.
Best, DennisT
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R%%%%
Everything is ARF replacements. Horizon had them for $14 - $16 shipping. HobbyKing - nothing but ARF replacements. Hobbytown - on backorder for almost everything.
Ken
I do not intend to further take this thread off topic, but Keith Sparks of Park Flyers has many canopies of all shapes and sizes. Prices seem reasonable. Shipping will be as reasonable as any. My experience has been the quality is good. Worth a look.
http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index
Keith
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I do not intend to further take this thread off topic, but Keith Sparks of Park Flyers has many canopies of all shapes and sizes. Prices seem reasonable. Shipping will be as reasonable as any. My experience has been the quality is good. Worth a look.
http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index
Keith
You were right. Great selection and really good prices & shipping.
Ken
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A neater job results by first cutting a shallow groove for the canopy edges, then use a ball point pen to form a deeper groove. This completely hides the canopy edges. Making a fillet usually isn't necessary if there is no edge to hide. I also use RC-56 because any extra that gets onto the canopy dries transparent. Epoxy always shows and you can't scrape it off where it doesn't belong.