Author Topic: What glue do you use (Read 4391 times)

Brad Smith · « **on:** October 22, 2010, 01:24:01 PM »

I hope to start building a Shark 45 soon i have been useing ca on my pprofiles just wondering what glue everybody is useing and why?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #1 on:** October 22, 2010, 02:18:22 PM »

I build with CA primarily with some epoxy in strategic spots.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #2 on:** October 22, 2010, 02:29:07 PM »

CA when I can't use anything else, or when I'm in a hurry (I react to it, so I have to budget my use)
Ambroid for balsa-balsa joints that come out on the surface, 'cause it's easy to sand
Aliphatic resin glue for most plywood to balsa joints, or plywood to plywood if I have plenty of surface area
Epoxy for anything really critical, particularly if it never has to be sanded. I sometimes use 5-minute, but mostly I use 30-minute or longer on wood, to give it time to soak into the wood before it kicks off
Canopy glue for, well, canopys, although epoxy has been suggested and I may try it. Canopy glue is also excellent for putting together flat foamies if you don't want to use CA

For my recent Waiex build I used Ambroid for most of the wing and tail structure, with epoxy to join the V-tail dihedral brace and aliphatic glue for the plywood bellcrank mounts. The fuselage was joined out of narrow pieces with Ambroid, the plywood braces were glued on with aliphatic, the motor mounts were epoxy (IIRC), the wing was glued in with epoxy and the epoxy was covered with wood fillets glued on with Ambroid.

If I didn't have a bad reaction to CA I'd do the whole thing with CA and epoxy, at least until I had to start worrying about sanding.

Bill Little · « **Reply #3 on:** October 22, 2010, 04:29:30 PM »

Epoxy for hardwood, CA for many applications (good fitting joints) and Elmers Glu All for much of the construction. It is light!

I used to use Ambroid a LOT, but it isn't available "close" to home.

Mongo

Brad Smith · « **Reply #4 on:** October 22, 2010, 04:46:03 PM »

How do you apply the Elmers Glu do you use a syringe or toothpic?

Allan Perret · « **Reply #5 on:** October 22, 2010, 05:21:48 PM »

My primary glue is wood glue, Titebond or Elmers. I use it straight or thinned. I apply it a lot of different ways, depends on the size of the parts. I use toothpick, skuers, syringe, various size brushes, or spreaders.
I use very little CA on the plane, but use it frequently to make jigs. I use various epoxies, including laminating type. I use canopy glue and Pacer hinge glue. As a teenager I only used Ambroid. I always have a tube on hand now, but never use it.

CircuitFlyer · « **Reply #6 on:** October 22, 2010, 07:41:48 PM »

I have found Bond 527 multi-purpose cement a really fast drying alternative to Elmers glue. Dries crystal clear, light weight and waterproof. If you see it at a craft store sometime give it a try. It can cut the build time for something like a Guillows stick & tissue model considerably.

Leester · « **Reply #7 on:** October 22, 2010, 09:00:19 PM »

I use lots of different CA's thin,medium and thick depending on the use, but be sure to seal the tips between usage. I also keep my CA's in the refridgerator for freshness. About the only epoxy I don't use are the 10 and 15 min variety, they never seem to dry completly. I have good results with Sig 5 and 30 min epoxy's along with there Sigment and Sigbond.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #8 on:** October 23, 2010, 07:11:43 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on October 22, 2010, 02:29:07 PM

Ambroid for balsa-balsa joints that come out on the surface, 'cause it's easy to sand

Hey Tim: Like I said in my post, I usually have a tube of Ambroid or Sigment laying around, but almost never use it. I used it exclusively when I was building Ringmasters as a teenager, and remember that is was anything but "easy to sand". For me it dried like a rock. If the joint came out to the surface, I would always have low spots either side of the glue line. What am I missing here ? Maybe I have to give it another try now that my building skills have improved..

john e. holliday · « **Reply #9 on:** October 23, 2010, 09:15:52 AM »

I have had to quit using Ambroid as the local hobby shop will not carry it anymore. They have the small tubes of SIGment at the same price of the old 4 ounce Ambroid. Have switched over to Elmer's Wood Glue and still use CA in some places. Also Epoxy in some areas. It really dpends on the situation and the mood I'm in.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #10 on:** October 23, 2010, 09:59:25 AM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on October 23, 2010, 07:11:43 AM

Hey Tim: Like I said in my post, I usually have a tube of Ambroid or Sigment laying around, but almost never use it. I used it exclusively when I was building Ringmasters as a teenager, and remember that is was anything but "easy to sand". For me it dried like a rock. If the joint came out to the surface, I would always have low spots either side of the glue line. What am I missing here ? Maybe I have to give it another try now that my building skills have improved..

Ambroid dries about as hard as CA. But it soaks into the balsa less than CA will. So if you have a good tight-fitting joint there's less rock-hard glue to sand.

I can laminate two sheets of balsa with Ambroid and sand across the laminations cleanly. When I try that with CA, I get a line.

proparc · « **Reply #11 on:** October 23, 2010, 12:01:31 PM »

I have been reading this post and I cannot-repeat, cannot believe all of you cats are still using Ambroid. I simply can't believe it. Were talking about the glue I used as a child!!! For crying out loud were talking 2010!!

What's really amazing is that, I had no idea Ambroid was still being made.

In any event-I guess I'd better weigh-in. Gorilla glue, various CA's, Titebond all on the same plane. If I am doing one of my foam wings also, contact cement.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #12 on:** October 23, 2010, 03:29:26 PM »

I still drink water and breath air, too. I guess I'm just an old fuddy-duddy.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #13 on:** October 23, 2010, 04:43:08 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on October 23, 2010, 09:15:52 AM

I have had to quit using Ambroid as the local hobby shop will not carry it anymore. They have the small tubes of SIGment at the same price of the old 4 ounce Ambroid. Have switched over to Elmer's Wood Glue and still use CA in some places. Also Epoxy in some areas. It really dpends on the situation and the mood

http://www.a2zcorp.us. They have it in sizes up to pint bottles, if you're going to do serious gluing.

proparc · « **Reply #14 on:** October 23, 2010, 05:26:13 PM »

The Saito 72 unlike say, a ST 46, has a "kinetic drive" that, to me, initially was unbelievable. Bob Zambelli talked at length about this. The Saito 30 has this same characteristic, (based on actual flights) but, the 72 has more-a lot more!! This “going through a brick wall as slow speed” characteristic, was unlike anything I have ever experienced in a CL stunt ship.

This, and the fact that I was subjecting these ships to some extreme plus and minus g’s, (very hard, repetitive cornering close the ground) made it obvious to me, that I was also subjecting these airframes to some very high, peak structural stresses. In addition, the “big block” has a pulse to it that overtime, will gradually take your nose apart.

The main change was that I found myself hitting up Home Depot for better and better adhesives solutions, rather than the local hobby shop. To sum up-I didn’t seek to change the adhesives I was using, the powerplant drove the change.

Dick Pacini · « **Reply #15 on:** October 23, 2010, 07:26:33 PM »

Wow! I looked Ambroid up and they are 2 miles from me! Whoda thunk!

Kim Mortimore · « **Reply #16 on:** October 24, 2010, 12:07:54 AM »

Quote from: proparc on October 23, 2010, 12:01:31 PM

I have been reading this post and I cannot-repeat, cannot believe all of you cats are still using Ambroid. I simply can't believe it. Were talking about the glue I used as a child!!! For crying out loud were talking 2010!!

What's really amazing is that, I had no idea Ambroid was still being made.

Nostalgia value, aside from questions of practical value. Since odors often trigger memories, the odor of Ambroid brings back fond memories for most of us.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #17 on:** October 24, 2010, 12:34:20 PM »

Quote from: Dick Pacini on October 23, 2010, 07:26:33 PM

Wow! I looked Ambroid up and they are 2 miles from me! Whoda thunk!

Do they sell to the public? I remember in the early days buying Ambroid in pint cans.

Dick Pacini · « **Reply #18 on:** October 24, 2010, 02:23:01 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on October 24, 2010, 12:34:20 PM

Do they sell to the public? I remember in the early days buying Ambroid in pint cans.

I will find out on Monday and post the results.

Dick Pacini · « **Reply #19 on:** October 25, 2010, 01:10:31 PM »

Well, today I went over the bridge to Vermont to the address for Ambroid Company. It was a very rural ride, up a long winding hill. I passed it the first time because I had left the street number at home. I stopped a rural mail carrier and asked where Ambroid was located on that road. She never heard of them.

I returned and picked up the address that I had and went back to Springfield, retracing my steps. I found the address and it looked to be a farmhouse with a long driveway. No name on the mailbox. I decided not to intrude because it certainly didn't look like any manufacturing would be done there.

I went home and checked the Vermont Phone book. Nothing. I have spent over an hour on line researching Ambroid and have found nothing that would would confirm a good address or even if they are in business anymore. I found a source that said Ambroid was bought out by a company in New Hampshire. I found their website and clicked on the link for Ambroid products. My anti-virus program blocked the link. I shut the block down and an alarm came on the screen that the site was hazardous and not to go there.

It was a frustrating venture, to be sure. My advice is, if you like Ambroid glue, snatch it up as soon as you find it.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #20 on:** October 26, 2010, 08:54:19 AM »

My replacement is SIGment. LHS just won't get it in larger sizes for some reason. Guess I will have to order direct.

Bill Little · « **Reply #21 on:** October 27, 2010, 01:53:43 PM »

Quote from: Brad Smith on October 22, 2010, 04:46:03 PM

How do you apply the Elmers Glu do you use a syringe or toothpic?

HI Brad,

We have some old glue guns (Tatone and ??), some Sig clear syringes for glue, and the multitude of diabetic syringes (usually minus the needle) that are around here. So far, absolutely no problems using Elmer's Glu All.

Mongo

Douglas Ames · « **Reply #22 on:** October 27, 2010, 08:05:46 PM »

Quote from: proparc on October 23, 2010, 12:01:31 PM

I have been reading this post and I cannot-repeat, cannot believe all of you cats are still using Ambroid. I simply can't believe it. Were talking about the glue I used as a child!!! For crying out loud were talking 2010!!

What's really amazing is that, I had no idea Ambroid was still being made.

In any event-I guess I'd better weigh-in. Gorilla glue, various CA's, Titebond all on the same plane. If I am doing one of my foam wings also, contact cement.

One of our LHS's here in Tulsa has a display box of Ambroid along with a nice K&S display. Alot of our Club members are using Gorilla glue, kinda like Elmers on steroids. I use Titebond II and CA, Epoxies.

Bob Reeves · « **Reply #23 on:** October 28, 2010, 10:20:33 AM »

Quote from: Brad Smith on October 22, 2010, 01:24:01 PM

I hope to start building a Shark 45 soon i have been useing ca on my pprofiles just wondering what glue everybody is useing and why?

You need it all... Thin, thick, extra thick CA, 5 min, 15 min, 30 min epoxy along with finishing resin/epoxy. Get a couple of the SIG glue guns from SIG or Brodak and a bottle of Elmer's carpenters glue for stuff you need to sand or take a little time with. I use it for sheeting, gluing blocks together etc. The only thing I will use Ambroid for is to temporary glue something together. It will usually come apart pretty easy.

Lately I've been using Extra thick CA for laminating, doublers etc. Bought a bottle by mistake, thought I was getting thick and after using it decided I liked it. I use Thick for plywood parts like tip weight boxes and thin if things fit well. On poor fits I use Elmer's, use 30 min epoxy for engine mounts and firewalls, 15 min when the joint needs a little more than 5 min but don't want to wait for 30. Always use 5 min for stabs and rudders, gives you enough time to get it aligned but sets quick so the time when it can be knocked out of alignment is minimized. Use finishing resin for fuel profing and as a base for a quick finish.

Having many at your disposal will alow you to pick the best one for the task..

Bill Little · « **Reply #24 on:** October 28, 2010, 01:46:25 PM »

I do agree with Bob above!

All types of glue can come in handy for our purposes. Sometimes I just get lazy and use whatever I pick up.

Mongo

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #25 on:** October 28, 2010, 03:03:15 PM »

Quote from: Bob Reeves on October 28, 2010, 10:20:33 AM

The only thing I will use Ambroid for is to temporary glue something together. It will usually come apart pretty easy.

Ambroid soaks into the wood so quickly that if you just do the normal thing and put a bit on a joint and press, the glue migrates away from the joint. You have to coat both sides of the joint, let it dry, then glue like normal.

Using CA is much faster, if it doesn't give you rampant nose bleeds and make the skin of your hands break out.

proparc · « **Reply #26 on:** October 28, 2010, 05:02:46 PM »

Quote from: Douglas Ames on October 27, 2010, 08:05:46 PM

Alot of our Club members are using Gorilla glue,

If you are going to get serious with the 72 "Big Block", you may want to put that that one on your short list-like real short!!

50+AirYears · « **Reply #27 on:** November 30, 2010, 01:32:06 PM »

Back in 1948 when I started building models, about all I had to work with were tube-type model airplane glues, AKA cements, like LePages and Duco, water mix Caesin glues, tube type plastic glues for plastic models, and I had a rather abortive try with an animal hide glue in a tube that was used in carpentry, but in my limited attention span, never dried on balsa wood. And, does anybody out there remember Musilage? Sometime in the early 50s, I got introduced to Ambroid and Polyvinyl Acetate (White) glues like Elmer's. Today, I still use Ambroid and Duco, since I still build a lot of small rubber powered planes. Those, and Titebond, still seem to be the best for but and T joints on 1/20" and 1/16" square. But today, including several different epoxies, 5 or 6 different CA formulations, Alipphatic resins like Titebond, Polyurethanes like Gorilla Glue, contact cements, glue stick, crystal clear watchmakers cement, Adhesive contact tapes, and a few others I'm not sure of, my work area has over 35 different forms and brands of adhesives.

As far as using Ambroid and Duco cements, there is a trick I learned decades ago that I sometimes remember when building. With the cements, apply a small amount to both contact areas. Rub it in. Allow to be absorbed and dry for about 5 minutes: Then apply a touch to one contact surface, and hold or clamp till dry. Also, for any glue, joints need to be a close fit without putting undue pressure on the joint. With these methods, I have an old Veco Smoothie I built in 1968 that is still flying today. Balsa wood has failed, Maple motor mounts fell apart, the original LG mount disintegrated, covering has failed, but none of the Ambroid glue joints have failed. Even the original Veco 2.5" tires succumbed to age and departed the hubs. Accurate joints and double gluing.

BTW, about 3 LHSs in my area say they have no problem getting Ambroid, just trouble keeping it in stock. One even still stocks Duco, a cement I can't find in any of the local craft or hardware stores.

larry borden · « **Reply #28 on:** November 30, 2010, 07:59:21 PM »

I'm still old school, use Ambroid. I did a google for Ambroid and found a hobby shop that had 12 packs in stock. Now have a supply. Also use epoxy, Elmers carpenter glue and CA.

Terrence Durrill · « **Reply #29 on:** December 03, 2010, 09:52:00 AM »

ELMER'S WHITE GLUE/and epoxy for engine mounts if you wish................YOU CAN'T GO WRONG. Elmer's will do it all and quite well..................PROUD USER OF ELMER'S WHITE GLUE since 1957................TDurrill

Chris Wilson · « **Reply #30 on:** December 15, 2010, 03:35:02 PM »

Quote from: Terrence Durrill on December 03, 2010, 09:52:00 AM

ELMER'S WHITE GLUE/and epoxy for engine mounts if you wish................YOU CAN'T GO WRONG. Elmer's will do it all and quite well..................PROUD USER OF ELMER'S WHITE GLUE since 1957................TDurrill

Agreed, Elmers or more correctly PVA glue is good for 99% of what you will want to do and it has great filling properties as well.

The 1% other use of epoxy is for aluminium engine plates and hardwood bearers that will allow little glue penetration.

Cheers.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #31 on:** December 16, 2010, 08:28:34 PM »

My favorite glue is "Tarzan's Grip". Not that I have ever used it, I just liked the billboard when I saw it along the highway in Aussie. Well, maybe it was because I was in Australia at the time. Hadta buy some, you know. Brought it on the plane home, too, "no worries" in '83! It smells just like Duco, actually, and looks like Duco...which looks and smells a whole lot like "Fabric Cement" from your average Randolph dope dealer out at the airport. And that works fine for building model planes. Available in gallons, I'd assume. Maybe 5 gallon pails?

For whatever help it may be, I discovered a simple "head fake" to help get through Customs. Worked going into Oz and coming back into USA. Bring some "food" products along. Going to Oz, it was an unopened bottle of Pina Colada mix...they didn't give a rat's butt about the jug of 151 Bacardi. Returning back home, it was just a box of Weetabix brekkie cereal. Brings the supervisors on the run, and after they give it the ok (with a look of disgust toward the lowlife agent), everything else was totally...and I mean totally ignored.

Steve

Bill Little · « **Reply #32 on:** December 17, 2010, 02:24:17 PM »

H iSteve,

Thanks for the hint on the "Fabric Cement". I wonder if you have used it for model construction? I still like to use some Ambroid and Duco.........

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #33 on:** December 18, 2010, 08:57:31 PM »

Bill...No, I have not personally used "Fabric Cement" for building, but I knew an old timer who did. He gave me a few ounces of it in a jar to experiment with, but I faded away from modeling for a few years, and never used it. He's passed away many moons ago. It might still be in the shop, somewhere. You can still buy Duco in the hardware store (or Lowe's & Home Depot, etc.), but it comes in a plastic bottle instead of the tubes. Probably a good thing.

Steve

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #34 on:** December 19, 2010, 08:54:09 AM »

Yup! Double glue Ambroid! O L D Trick. Actually should work with any Glue ! ?

Ward-O

Bill Little · « **Reply #35 on:** December 19, 2010, 08:52:14 PM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on December 18, 2010, 08:57:31 PM

Bill...No, I have not personally used "Fabric Cement" for building, but I knew an old timer who did. He gave me a few ounces of it in a jar to experiment with, but I faded away from modeling for a few years, and never used it. He's passed away many moons ago. It might still be in the shop, somewhere. You can still buy Duco in the hardware store (or Lowe's & Home Depot, etc.), but it comes in a plastic bottle instead of the tubes. Probably a good thing.
Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks. Being always on the look out for a product that does the job and costs less, I was thinking abut trying the fabric cement, I suspect it is available from Aircraft Spruce. (

) The usual less "model specific" large quantities are generally less expensive. Sometimes less than what a small quantity costs of "model cement" to the point that a larger quantity is much less expensive. I bought some Duco in a tube a while back at Wally World! LOL!! Surprised me, but there was the old green tube. Used it to glue in some taffeta hinges. I always thought that the Testors "Cement for Wood Models" in regular or extra fast, was very, very simiilar to the Duco. I need to look for larger quantity "bottles". When I start building I tend to build a lot.

Like Ward-O said, I always double glue as I am sure you do, also.

Bill

john e. holliday · « **Reply #36 on:** December 21, 2010, 08:31:04 AM »

Will have to go look for the new DUCO Cement. The local hobby shop will not carry the big tubes of SIGment or Ambroid. They have lots of the different types of CA tho. I may go back to good ole Elmer's Glue All as the Elmer's Wood Glue is setting up in the small glue bottle I use to glue with.

Author Topic: What glue do you use (Read 4391 times)

larry borden