stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Kim Mortimore on December 13, 2007, 06:43:33 PM
-
Has anybody used this filler, recommended in the LustreKote instructions? If so, whadjuhthink?
Thanks,
Kim
-
Only problem is, stuff often won't stick as well as you would want and the stuff never stops shrinking. Can be a paint, though it might work OK with Monokote.
-
The times I've used it, it dried up in the jar and had to add water to get it at a good consistency. I just got some Micro fill and it seems better so far as it is not dried up and apply's with a razer blade just fine.
-
I've used this stuff with mixed feelings about its usefulness. It is very soft and sands wonderfully. In fact, I think it can be scraped off with a fingernail. I still use it on occasions for very thin fillets and then only with a covering on glass and epoxy, and still, I've had bubbles form in the vicinity but unable to confirm that it is the Hobbylite. Use with caution.
I'd give a shiny Penny to anyone who would post a fillet material which sands nearly as easily and strong enough to be safe. I'm thinking of trying some experiments with a heavy dose of talc in a very thin epoxy.(Zap Finishing resin, one part A, one part B and three or four parts acetone).
Al
-
Mike Scholtes,
You said you were pleased with the blue fillet material you showed us. Is the Stinger the first plane you have used it on? Would you like to post the name of the material and what you've learned about it so far?
Thx,
Kim
-
Why yes, Kim, I would be pleased to expound on the wonders of the blue stuff. This is a 2-part epoxy lightweight filler made for full-scale homebuilts, especially composite structures. The product name is SuperFil, made by Poly Fiber which I believe is a Stits division. It comes in two containers, one blue and one white. The two creamy parts are stirred together (in a separate container) to form a smooth paste that comes out light blue. It has a pot life of an hour officially but I find it starts to take a set at about 15 minutes in 60-degree weather. It tools easliy. I use sticks of 1/16 ply made with different radiuses to get the desired fillet cross section, then run a finger dipped in solvent (alcohol, acetone, thinner all work) along the fillet. Applied this way it requires hardly any sanding, but it does sand very easily for an epoxy product. I think the body of the material is mostly microballoons. Dries to sanding hardness in about 8 hours. This is a very superior product and the best fillet material I have tried. It is very light and does not shrink. It is made for a vibrating environment. And the icing on the cake? It costs $18.95 for about a quart, enough to build 100 models. And it can be shipped, because unlike dope it is not a "hazardous material." Got mine from Sacramento Sky Ranch in, you guessed it, Sacramento. Shipping adds about $8.
-
Absolutely! This is "the right stuff" for model work. Probably available from any aircraft finish supplier. Try polyfiber.com for locations around the world. I get it from Texair parts, about 6 miles from my home, less than $20.00.
Don
-
I am almost sure it is available from Aircraft Spruce also....
-
Yes it is that's where I bought mine.
-
Spruce has it, dont be fooled though, when you pull the containers out of the shipping box, you will think they are empty, this stuff is pretty light! LL~ H^^
-
There have been many posts and threads on Super Fil. It is the very best fillet material I have ever used (with the possible exception of balsa fillets), and I don't think there is a material for fillets I haven't used (even leather!). It is about the same price as Brodak expoilite, but you get two or three times the material (anyone know exactly?? I'm not near mine)
It applies easily, isn't real critical to mix ratios, sands very easily and is super light. I cannot see any other material that matches up. It IS made for full size aircraft, afterall!
The link to Aircraft Spruce has also been posted numerous times. I don't have it handy righ tnow.
-
That's where i ordered mine from yesterday. "Aircraft Spruce". $19.95 for a quart.
After trying several brands that never dried right or just did not have the strength
for a fillet . I finally got smart and ordered the most talked about product being
used to build quality models.
It was made to be used on full size aircraft and is so light it can be used for
modeling.
-
Here is the part number for SUPERFIL 09-28250. Price is still $19.85 !
Got my QT. the other day. This is without a doubt, the lightest and the easyest to work with filler, out there. Try it ,you will not be disappointed. y1
REGARDS. DAVE
-
The times I've used it, it dried up in the jar and had to add water to get it at a good consistency. I just got some Micro fill and it seems better so far as it is not dried up and apply's with a razer blade just fine.
Lee,
I bought the "Micro-Fill" and after getting it home read the whole set of directions. At the very bottom in the Red Band in Black Letters is a note. It states --- "When applying Butyrate Dope over Micro Fill, filler must be thoroughly dry and sealed with any polyester resin or epoxy finishing resin prior to applying Butyrate Dope" What are you sealing it with? Seems like an awful lot of extra work?
"Billy G" H^^
-
I broke away from dope finishing. I use Polycrylic from home Depot $16.00 a quart.
It allows me to apply primer and auto paint urethanes with clear coat in half the
time. Theres a great finishing artical by Bradley Walker at Ultra Hobby. It was
taken from one of the great finishing pionneers Bill Wilson and brought up to date.
Minwax Polycrylic (PC) from Home Depot
00 or Medium Silkspan for covering
Lacquer or Urethane Primer
Urethane Base coat Paint
Urethane Clear
Thats it . Saves about $200.00 in Brodak products and a very long long long dope procedure.
But that's just me some people will never leave the old dope and tissue method....
-
Bryan,
For solid wood surfaces only, right? No open bays.
Kim Mortimore
-
"But that's just me, some people will never leave the old dope and tissue method..."
Thank Goodness for that! y1
-
I guess we're dinosaurs, Pete.
-
Or Neanderthals. The wonderful, nostalgic smell of dope makes up for many of its shortcomings as a finishing system. I wish Georgia liked the smell of butyrate as much as I do!
-
I can''t remember which issue it was, but, on one of Bob Hunts Stunt News Videos there was an article on making filets using balsa wood. He started with shet wood the thickness of the width of the filet. Then cut it to fit the outline of the wing or stab that needed a filet. Then used dowel rods with sandpaper wrapped around them for making the concave surface of the filet. It looked like a lot of work, but, the end result was fabulous on his planes. Later, DOC Holliday
-
I can''t remember which issue it was, but, on one of Bob Hunts Stunt News Videos there was an article on making filets using balsa wood. He started with shet wood the thickness of the width of the filet. Then cut it to fit the outline of the wing or stab that needed a filet. Then used dowel rods with sandpaper wrapped around them for making the concave surface of the filet. It looked like a lot of work, but, the end result was fabulous on his planes. Later, DOC Holliday
Hi Doc,
You can also build up layers of thinner wood when using Ambroid, Elmer's Glue-All, Duco, etc which sand so easily. Balsa fillets are pretty easy to do, but getting good wood to make them from is now even harder. :'(
Bill