How thick is the nylon covering, and is the .032" figure with or without?

Uncoated .027" is kinda-sorta the standard, even for bigger ships than yours.  I'm pretty sure that what you have will work, if perhaps be overkill.

Hi Chancey! I also used .027 on my banshee and twister. I'm assuming that what you have would be a little over kill. One sure test would be to strip off a little covering and measure it. But if i had to guess I'd say you're good. You could also order a couple sets of stuff from county line hobbies. And if you have too much trouble, you know i could send it to you.

Sorry, i ramble.... But the strength there should be plenty. I have no idea about crimping with the coating. I'm not a deep sea fisherman.

Ok. Back again. So I got ready to do it, got all my supplies and started only to realize the crimps I had were too small for this wire. I swore I had them though. So, I referred to the plans and followed the diagram and instructions on them. I looped them, wrapped with copper wire, folded back over again and wrapped till the termination point. I then applied a coat of 5 minute epoxy to the wrapped area. I then upon leaving the room saw the correct crimps sitting on the floor! But I am now glad I did not find them earlier and did it properly. In a while when the epoxy had a while to fully set and cure, I was thinking of putting a piece of shrink wrap over them for a bit of added protection.

Brass tube works great on bare wire.  If anything cuts anything it's the wire cutting the tube.

I'm not so sure with the coated wire -- I'd make a pointed end on a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" music wire and use it to bell-mouth the ends of the tubing, if I were in doubt.

Do make adjustable leadouts, BTW.

I'm guessing that the coating on the wire, if that is what you are using, is soft and very flexible. That said when it is passing through a metal or plastic guide hole it may want to stick. That will cause untold frustration when flying. If you use a wood leadout slider that wont be a problem. Make doubly sure that the leadout wires are free of the rib cutouts through the full travel of the slider.

Maybe others will disagree with me here but I would not loop the lead out wire thru the bellcrank as shown in your photo.  Under load, that loop of wire will tend to flex, or "flatten out", then relax as load is removed.  This repeated flexing can fatigue the loop and lead to failure.  I have seen many like this last far longer than I thought they would, but then again, I have seen some fail rather early.  Very hard to predict.  On something the size of the Banshee you might be OK but for future projects there are better ways to do this.

I use a nylon (delrin?) lead out guide.  I have always worried about the stranded lead out cables eventually sawing thru the nylon but it would probably take many flights to do that.  And, I worry about individual strands of the cable breaking due to rubbing on the guide, especially if the guide is a brass tube or eyelet.  I have used solid leadouts and with the nylon guide there is almost no wear, no sticking.  But, solid leadouts have their disadvantages as well.

Ok. Thanks again all for your help and suggestions. I have noted the information put forward for future builds, as it was already installed as was pictured. I am by no means a competition flyer, just the odd time for fun. Mainly at the cottage the odd weekend, so say for example I may do 1 tank every couple of weekends. It is just for fun. If I am to get more serious, I will most definitely employ the above mentioned suggestions. Thank you.

Honestly, if you're going to get serious about learning the pattern it'll be kindling long before you wear anything out.  I hope you feel all encouraged now.

Funny, but true. I lost count but think I re-kitted 5 or 6 planes so far.

Ok. Will do the change then. Thanks.