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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Motorman on March 07, 2013, 08:15:40 PM
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Motorman,
Just clean up the part for fitment (if necessary) as you normally would and don't worry about the brown. If you're happy with the part fit as is you can simply wipe along the brown edge with your finger to remove any loose residue that might be there and then get out the glue. Sometimes though you'll notice that the edge is not perfectly square or flat as it comes out of the sheet. Because of that I'll always give any laser cut part at least a good close look and a light scuff with some fine sandpaper just to make it "perfect", just depends how picky one wants to get.
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If it fits, I glue it. That is using SIGment, Duco, epoxy and/or CA.
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Do you have to sand all the brown off the balsa before you glue it? I messes up the fit of the parts when you do.
AS said just glue it, the brown hurts nothing, and may actually improve the joint when using CA
Randy
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I'd read somewhere that using a Q-Tip slightly dampened with hydrogen peroxide and running it along the laser burned edges, was supposed to be helpful in reducing the darkened appearance. It dries fairly quickly. Tried it a while back on some free flight ribs and it sort of works okay.
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I'd paint any exposed edges black and tell the inquisitive that it's CF strip... LL~ Steve
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I once had a model where the cap strips were coloured in with a black sharpie. People always asked if it was a carbon fibre structure. It was just to hide some mistake!!
When I worked in machine prototyping we had to linish laser-cut edges of steel components so that the powder-coating would stick, but there's no need with glued balsa.
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If one plans to use the transparent films, a light cleaning/sanding will clear the cinched balsa. It looks very ugly when finished.
No problems on gluing.
H^^