I have a very shakey hand and whenever i try to cut out curved surfaces (such as ribs) I always end up with a huge difference between my ribs.  I use a sharp exacto knife and a cardboard template tracing with a pencil.  so whats the secret to doing this?

Yea, more rigid templates helps.

Many of the inexpensive CAD programs will print out on a cheap dot matrix printer.  Stick the printout to the wood and stack cut some parts.  If you use a jig saw and just nick the inkline you can cut parts to within .005 in.  easily as good as a laser.  I usually cut at least 4 layers at a time, either to have parts to repair with, or have parts to build another with quickly.  A decent jigsaw will cut up to 1 in. thick with no problems, as long as the blade is sharp and you don't force it through the wood.

I've cut ribs in about every way that can be done, except laser. I think my favorite for a constant chord, is to make a 1/32" ply template, poke some pins through the plywood, then install pins that are pre-bent at 90 degrees, with a bit of a horseshoe made out of the 'tag end' (knot term). Epoxy will hold that in place, but so will CA and baking soda. Get the pins eyeballed straight before or after you glue with a pair of needlenosed pliers. Since there will always be a slight difference between top & bottom, I put a ballpoint or Sharpie mark in the bottom of one of the spar notches, or on top of the TE relief. Marked for 'up', all the ribs will be identical, almost no sanding will be required, and the wing will be straight. I like a single edge razor blade to do most the work, then switch to a #11 Mator blade (German duplicate of Exacto #11, from Solengin Steel...good chit!) for the notches as needed.

Stack sanding is fine for tapered wings. Adjust the ends for the distorted angle in one of several ways. Cap strips cover the angular error on the top & bottom edges. Kewl...  Steve

how much on average do you think it would cost to have a set cut.  I have my eyes set on a 1/2a fierce arrow still...  but it needs to be very light as It will be electric powered.    i hope.  still planning.

Three methods. First cut out a paper template, 'gluestick" it to the wood, cut, sand to final shape. Second, a hard pattern, cut individual or stack of ribs, sand to final shape. Third and best, send off pattern to a laser cutter, get three sets of ribs, build planes.

Hi Ty,

I use the paper method, most prints have each rib and most plane I build each rib is different. I cut the ribs from the print about a 1/16 from line than I tape the rib on to the wood with the clear box tape ( can get a roll of tape for a dollar) I use a single edge razor blade. Works for me, a lot of work but it just for fun. If you shake get your grandchild to cut them for you. It will give you time with the grandchild and you get the love of the child from all of it. My grandkids like to make drawing for me. Just a suggestion, good luck Gary

Jeffrey, On the 1/2a Fierce Arrow I'd contact Eric Rule at RSM. He kits the full size plane, ask him about a 1/2 a size kit. Worth a try.

Somebody say "1/2A Fierce Arrow"?  This is one Frank Carlisle and I collaborated on, .061-powered, called the "Frankenstone Arrow".

--Ray (Stone)