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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Bob Reeves on February 20, 2009, 09:33:05 AM

Title: Functional 4 stroke nose
Post by: Bob Reeves on February 20, 2009, 09:33:05 AM
Have had a few questions on how I did the nose of the new Latency so thought I'd post a few pictures. I chose functionality over ascetics and not near the craftsman some are but what the heck it works.. I had a couple wants when I started designing this nose mainly I wanted the Saito to be side mounted. Didn't want to build a cowl and thought a trike would be something different.

First photo is the tank compartment, the forward hatch is simply so I have a way to connect the fuel line to the spray bar after the engine is installed. The tank floor is 1/8 light ply, the slots on the side are for wire-ties which will hold the tank. The top block has channels that direct the end of the wire-tie back up through the slot on the opposite side. Simply start one end in either slot and it will automatically be routed to and up through the slot on the other side. If I were doing it again I would shorten the triangular braces behind the firewall so the front of the hatch would be square.


2nd photo is showing the inside of the engine compartment. The hardwood block is tapped 1/4-20 and lines up with the throat of the intake. SIG RC mounts on a 1/4 inch plywood firewall. Much easier than hardwood mounts and nothing in the way in the tank compartment. Don't really care for the size and shape of the hole in the fuselage side for the engine but this is what it took to be able to install it and the mounts without having to build a cowl. Something that did work out well was lining the inside of the cut-out with a stiff carbon fiber strip, this makes it neat and will take the abuse of removing and installing the engine. The stuff I used was made by Dave Brown, came in 1/2 inch width, I cut it into ~ 1/8 inch strip and installed it with CA. Wasn't able to get 1/64 ply to bend that tight, even wet but CF worked out well.

Last photo is the other side of the fuselage. Air scoop channels fresh air into the intake, hole in front lines up with vent for after-run oiling, may put a short piece of fuel line on it to get the discharge outside the engine compartment. And of course the choke screw that goes down the intake, will probably dye the screw black..

Like I said it's functional if not pretty, am sure a true craftsman could come up with something more pleasing to the eye but I'm OK with it as-is.
Title: Re: Functional 4 stroke nose
Post by: Ralph Wenzel (d) on February 20, 2009, 10:55:04 AM
Doggone, Bob. That looks nice and clean. I wish you hasd included a photo of the "business" side with the engine installed. I'll admit to being impressed with the sleek beauty and, well, sexiness, if a Cobra-type cowl, but darn they're a lot of work!


Title: Re: Functional 4 stroke nose
Post by: Bob Reeves on February 20, 2009, 11:19:48 AM
Hi Ralph, didn't post a photo of the other side as I posted a photo in the main forum under "Another gray airplane".. I shows the engine installed..
Title: Re: Functional 4 stroke nose
Post by: Ralph Wenzel (d) on February 20, 2009, 10:02:22 PM
Sorry, Bob, I missed it. That's very neat and business-like.


Title: Re: Functional 4 stroke nose
Post by: john e. holliday on February 21, 2009, 08:45:03 PM
Bob, that looks great to the old DOC Holliday.
Title: Re: Functional 4 stroke nose
Post by: Terry Bolin on February 25, 2009, 03:39:33 AM
Looks good Bob. What is the 1/4" hole for you mentioned? Priming the motor?
I Look forward to seeing these planes!
Title: Re: Functional 4 stroke nose
Post by: Bob Reeves on February 25, 2009, 07:20:20 AM
Hi Terry,

Not sure which hole you are referring to.. The one in the top is for the needle, the one on the inside front lines up with the breather nipple, this is where the after run oil goes and where the excess oil gets discharged from when the engine is running. The one behind the air scoop is threaded 1/4-20 for a nylon screw that makes an adjustable intake choke.

To prime, I just put a finger over the exhaust outlet and turn the engine through a couple of times. This pressurizes the tank and forces fuel to the needle. I use an electric starter so even if I don't prime it enough it will eventually start.