don't know where you read it but I use this method sometimes

I have to set the laser to high quality, not draft or economy (toner saving) print

I use a regular house hold Iron mid range and quite a bit of down pressure then let it cool before lifting off the paper so the transfer of toner/ink can cool and stick to the DUST free balsa sheet

    It needs to be ink jet printing. You can use heat from an iron, and some have used thinner and a cotton ball and rubbed the back of the paper to transfer it. I used to do it a lot when I flew a lot of free flight. I made copies of all Comet or Peck Polymers print wood and made new parts sheets before building them if the wood seemed too heavy.
  HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
   Dan McEntee

Toner printers and photocopiers can make 1 transfer with a household iron.  It is really just refusing the toner to the other material.  The "original" copy has much of the toner removed in the process so it cannot be used again to make a transfer.  The "copy" is mirrored, which is usually acceptable, and similar to a lot of printwood, often with small gaps. 

Ink based printings can be transferred using a solvent.  I have not used this method as getting a photocopy and ironing has been much easier for me.

I wonder if a second transfer can be made from a photocopy or laser printer printout with solvent...  I don't know...

Phil

In my post above, I noted the need with a Laser print to ensure the most toner was on the paper for what I thought an obvious reason

Recently I have been acquiring plans and old kits for many combat planes. I never want to try to copy a 30 x 50 inch plan on my 8.5 X 11 inch scanner as I spend a lot of time to Iron the folded plan flat and then roll for storage, so I abhor wrinkles in my original plans

some times I trace the part but the trace is flimsy and not well suited for further tracing or cutting out unless transferred to heavy stock
some times I have a well cut (die crush) part to copy.  Some times I have a near perfect laser Part

no matter if I want to duplicate for a second pane, or just store a set of templates, I put any of the tracings or actual parts on the laser photo copier, set to my DPI and High quality sometimes arranging the print and number of pieces to fit a stock piece of sheet balsa...example lay out 4ea 9" chord ribs in landscape to fit a section of 4" x 36" x 1/16th balsa sheet for most efficient use of the sheet

Once printed, I do not use any solvents, just a fairly hot iron and the transfer is very well defined and sharp for me to cut precisely with scalpel or Exact blades or sand down to the line

The ink jet will not transfer without solvent and then the outline is fuzzy and not sharp

The laser is razor sharp but I must let the transfer cool so the toner clings to the balsa as I peel away the paper

Many ways to skin this cat

I have wondered a few times about trying to feed a sheet of 1/64 in one of my straight trough printers

I wish my ink jet printer would handle things like silkspan taped to a piece of paper.  Unfortunately, my printer bends the paper during processing.  That eliminates everything except plain paper.

Floyd