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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: steve pagano on November 30, 2006, 06:06:22 AM
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what are your techniques for getting that part from the plans to the actual wood? Do you trace the part from the plans onto paper then glue the paper onto balsa then cut that piece out?
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Tom Morris sells some plastic that you put over the plans and score with an Xacto knife. The you break the template out and trace on the wood.
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If you don't mind destroying the plans, you can cut the part out and paste it on the wood. An alternative method I use sometimes is to place the plans over the wood and prick holes through with a straight pin--then "connect the dots" on the wood. Preserves the plan sheet, you can even Xerox it later and the pinpricks don't show. Do this using 1/32" plywood and you have a template you can cut around for multiple parts (ribs, etc.).
--Ray
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Carbon paper. You can run over the plan with a pencil and it transfers to the paper you put underneath.
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I use tracing paper from the art store.
Trace over the piece with a pencil. To transfer the drawing, flip the paper over, draw along the lines with a pencil, then flip the paper over onto your work. When you trace the part again, the pencil lead is transferred and your drawing is on the wood.
You do not have to destroy your plans; the tracing paper is also not destroyed and can be used many, many times. #^
Ron
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Steve,
I tape my plans up on a large window and then tape regular weight drafting stock over this. Makes a large light box. Best done on a bright day.
Kim
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Ran out of Carbon Paper. Went to an Office Supply store to get more and suffered "Sticker Shock". $12.95 for 100 sheets!
Suggestion, do not try to trace free hand when copying parts. Use "French Curves or straight edges" to get more accurate tracings.
Clancy
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Found a 10 sheet pack at one of the local "marts" for $1.29. 10 sheets will trace a lot of plans.
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Carbon paper and then prick through with a pin. The dots show up better.
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Much like Ty, I go to the local UPS store and use their 36" photo copier. I make copies of the plans and cut them up for templates, Much easier than tracing or poking holes in the plans.
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I use my scanner on most smaller stuff and then 3M 77 to the wood and cut it out . go asy on the 3M and it peels nicely when done.
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Hi Roger. Instead of the 3M stuff, have you tried rubber cement? It just rolls into little balls of rubber when you are done and leaves no reisidue on the balsa.
I also use the rubber cement. I use it to apply a paper pattern and also to stack ribs for cutting. I recently ran out and had a heck of a time finding some more. I used to get it at an artist supply store but they were out also. I finally found 3 bottles at a local ma and pa hardware store so I bought all they had.
We used to call it Snit, half snot and half ..... well you get the idea? <=
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I use double sided tape that's used for picture mats. It comes in fairly large rolls. I also use it to hold stacks of Ribs and other multiple parts to be cut. It just rolls off by rubbing a finger on it and leaves no residue.
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I first make an extra set or two of plans on the copier at Kinko's. Then, I use 3M temporary artists adhesive (it's just like Post-it-note adhesive in an aerosol can) to attach the pattern. Spray the adhesive on the paper pattern ONLY, let it "tack up" and apply the pattern to the piece of wood selected. Then go to your saw and simply cut out the part, remove the paper, and you're good to go. The adhesive leaves no residue.
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I'm with Sparky on this.
Tom Morris sells a product called SeeTemp, short for See-through Template. It's a sheet of red translucent plastic you lay right on the original plan and score with an Exacto Knife. Snap out the shape and you then have a permanent template that you can use over and over. Unlike paper it has rigidity similar to a plastic coffee can lid and will last forever.
I found mine at my local Hobby/Art Supply shop. Any good art supply place should carry it.
I just walked up to the counter and asked if they carry SeeTemp and they knew exactly what I was talking about.
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Surprised nobody mentioned the acetone trick. Make a copy of the part, lay the copy upside down on the wood and go over it with a paper towel dipped in acetone. The ink will be transfered to the wood and you have a perfect pattern.
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Howard Rush reported once that you could lay the plans on the balsa/plywood and just iron over it. A bit of the ink/toner transfers onto the wood. I haven't tried it, but it's about the only method I haven't tried.
I tend to make rib templates from plywood or aluminum, and other stuff from thin posterboard. Office Depot should have it. I would probably try using Howard's ironing method, but iron onto posterboard, to make templates. Something like a profile fuselage isn't even worth making a template. Just lay it out with a scale and fine ballpoint pen, or build the core on the plans, and then sheet both sides. Trim away everything that doesn't look right... LL~ Steve
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what are your techniques for getting that part from the plans to the actual wood? Do you trace the part from the plans onto paper then glue the paper onto balsa then cut that piece out?
My son like to have copies of the plans so that he can cut them up and glue them on the wood. Works great for him, but the local copy shop closed............
I do all kinds of things! Whatever the mood at the time is..... I use the C-Temp, I used to use the carbon paper, I have done the "pin prick method" (like Werwage!) a whole lot, and I use a ruler and french curves a lot. I cut everything I can with surgical scalpels (a #24 blade in a #4 handle will do some SERIOUS cutting of balsa wood and even thin ply) since there ain't much that's sharper than a razor blade, and use a whole lot of sanding blocks. ;D