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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: andreas johansson on September 07, 2007, 03:37:01 AM
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Hi guys!
It was a long time ago since I last built a CL aircraft. I have been using ARF Noblers for some time now. However I have now ordered an Vector 40 and I have one question regarding the wing fillets. Do you put the epoxolite or aeropoxy on the bare wood and put the silkspan over it or do you put it on after the model is "silkspanned"?
Andreas
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As Ty says Cover first then apply the fillets. Sand to take the shine off then a little primer, sand and your ready to paint them.
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Just as a side note, consider using a product called SuperFil for fillets. It's lighter by a lot than Epoxolite and lighter and easier to work with (to say nothing about much cheaper) than Aeropoxy Lite. Cool stuff and I've had zero adhesion problems with paint using this stuff. Sure made doing fillets a bunch easier.
http://www.polyfiber.com/epoxy/
I buy it from Spencer Aircraft. They have an online store now. about 18.10 for enough to do your next 15 airplanes and then some.
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Agreed Randy, stuff is so light when you get the containers you have to open them and make sure they have anything in them! H^^
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http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=4605.0
Canopy done with Super-fil. I'm not a great builder so with a little patience you can do it too. I guess I should mention for the new builders here that I got the info on how to do a canopy from right here on Stunthanger under building tips. It was my first one. Of course now I can say I've done two......Thanks Robert S.
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Hi guys!
Thanks for your answers! :)
How would you do if you use iron-on covering on the wings and silkspan on the aircraft body? can you put epoxolite/aeropoxy/super-fil on iron-on covering?
Andreas
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NO.......You would have to remove the Iron on covering from the fillet area and then paint the fuse and the fillets and blend the paint over the edge of the iron on covering etc.
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Sorry, but I have to inject a different opinion.
I use Epoxolite for my fillets and I put them on before I cover the model. I only use nitrate dope (non shrinking, thinned 50/50) and put two or three coats on the bare wood. Nitrate fills better and sticks better, too. Then I mask and put my fillets on. Then I sand the fillets and put on about 6 or 7 more coats of nitrate. Finally, I cover the model with light silkspan, fill with more coats of nitrate, and finish with Klass Kote epoxy. You can also cover with carbon veil, but it's expensive.
I don't use butyrate unless I have to shrink the covering and I don't like it very much. As Ty mentioned, it will pull up and bubble. I try to stick with nitrate on the fuselage (and fillet areas) and only switch to butyrate on the open bays.
My .02,
Ron
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Ron,
I just use non-taunting butyrate. Works for me.
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I use the Randolph's Non-Tautening, Tinted Nitrate on everytihng except silkspan/Jap tissue/silk open bays which get Sig Supercoat since it will shrink enough to chrush the skin on a B-1 Bomber! LOL!! This is applied ONLY to open bays.
Randy, I know you only use Butyrate, but you should give the Nitrate I referred to above a try. Never had a problem with compatibility in over 20 years now. It has more solids, sticks better and is no heavier (maybe even lighter) than butyrate. Like I have said before, it can even be used with NO PRIMER/Filler to build up the finish. Very light! ;D
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Bill,
I usually buy it by the gallon and have just never wanted to invest in a gallon of nitrate when butyrate works fine. The Randolph's stuff has a lot more solids that you normally see. But If I can get a quart from Aircraft Spruce, I may give it a try.
Randy
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Hi Randy,
A quart of Randolph Non-tautening, Tinted Nitrate is $13.95 plus shipping, IIRC. I got a quart a couple months back to tide me over until I can get a gallon.
Bill <><