Author Topic: hinge pockets (Read 5918 times)

Clay Schmidt · « **on:** September 20, 2006, 01:41:21 PM »

Would anyone care to share how they make a good hinge pocket? Mine look like...... sh!t.

Pictures would be appreciated.

Clay

Eric Viglione · « **Reply #1 on:** September 20, 2006, 02:50:00 PM »

Well, I don't have pictures handy, but I bet Warren Wagner does, hint hint Warren!

What I do is mark the center lines, then use the GP Slotmachine,(an electric hinge slot cutter) but you can do it with a #11 exacto too. Then take a scrap of hard wood, cut it to just slightly larger than the width of the hinges you use, leave the length a few inches so you have somthing to hold on to. If you have some sticky back 220 sandpaper, great, if not contact cement a piece onto your block, be sure to wrap around the width of the block. Finally, use this new sanding block to sand a notch into the leading edge of your flaps and elevators for each hinge. Careful not to go too deep, just the depth of your barrel hinge. Works for me!

EricV

Ralph Wenzel (d) · « **Reply #2 on:** September 20, 2006, 03:08:26 PM »

So far, I can't even get it right with the GP Slot Machine! Easiest (most accurate) for me is to laminate the TE of the wing/stab with a 1/32" layer in the center. Just omit the 1/32" strip where you want hinges to be. Do the same with the flaps/elevators. Be sure your hinges have holes in them to act as "rivets", and use either a good slow epoxy or Great Planes "Hinge Glue".

Leester · « **Reply #3 on:** September 20, 2006, 04:30:02 PM »

Brodak BH-928 Hinge pocket sanding jig. I think there a buck.

Warren Wagner · « **Reply #4 on:** September 20, 2006, 07:04:17 PM »

Quote from: Clay Schmidt on September 20, 2006, 01:41:21 PM

Would anyone care to share how they make a good hinge pocket? Mine look like...... sh!t.

Pictures would be appreciated.

Clay

Well Clay, I'm glad you asked. Hinge slotting is one of my favorite topics !!! (Un-huh) It's something that bugged me for years, but now, with the proper tools and technique, it's a piece of cake.

I was going to watch TV, but thanks to Eric V, I now have to edit pictures and write copy. Thanks a lot ! <g>

I have avoided the "Slot Machine" for one reason.....it makes slots that are too wide. The reason that I am concerned about this point, is that on transparent wings, I have seen semi-circles of oil that has soaked in around the hinges. For that reason, I try to make the hinge pockets only large enough for the hinges, and I always try to seal them with excess glue (I use a water soluble glue for installing hinges).

Once you have the proper tools, and use the proper technique, the hinging process can go along quickly, and you can end up with perfect hinge pockets.

Use what ever technique you like to establish the centerline position for the hinge slots. There are several devices on the market, and I have most of them....use the one that gives you the most accuracy.

There are several 'plunge forks' and 'digging tools' on the market. Try several and find the one that works best for you. Here is the important point.....THE TOOLS MUST BE SHARP!!! They are NOT manufactured this way...you must file and hone the tips until they cut the balsa easily.

The first photo show the 'plunge fork' establishing the ends of the hinge pocket. Again, you must hone this tool until it cuts easily.

After cutting with the 'plunge fork', the only thing left to form you hinge pocket is to remove the center section. Here's my secret: I cut (Dremel cutting disk, or simply snap the blade) an ordinary single edge razor blade to the *length* of the hinge pocket. Now, very carefully plunge cut both sides of the hinge pocket. (second photo)

Now, if you have make the cuts properly, the remaining balsa will pop out in one piece (third photo). Bingo, you're done. On to the next slot.

And the final results are shown in the fourth photo.

Again, the key to efficiently cutting hinge slots is the proper SHARP tools, and careful technique. Don't hesitate to fabricate your own tools, or modify commercial ones to improve their performance.

Give it a try....I hope this is helpful to some.

Cheers.

Warren Wagner

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #5 on:** September 20, 2006, 08:15:45 PM »

Very nice Warren! I really appreciate you efforts here but what I was wanting to know is how you guys are making nice square, clean sockets for the barrel of the hinge to recess into. I tried the Brodak tool with so-so results. I end up wondering off center, the slot is sometimes cut at an angle looking at it from the edge. or into the hinge slot.

Clay

Bill Little · « **Reply #6 on:** September 20, 2006, 08:37:33 PM »

Hi Clay,

Sorry, no pictures........

I find a piece of plywood that is close to the thinkness of the barrel. A touch thicker will not hurt. I cut this about 3" long, and slightly wider than the hinge barrel. This is then centered on a piece of ply that is at least 1/2" wider on both sides to work as a backing plate. I also glue a scrap of balsa to the back for a handle.

I attach 80 grit sandpaper to the front and start off slow, someimts cutting a small section out to begin with to get the hole started. Then sand until the backing plate stops the depth.

Bill <><

Warren Wagner · « **Reply #7 on:** September 20, 2006, 09:35:14 PM »

Quote from: Clay Schmidt on September 20, 2006, 08:15:45 PM

Very nice Warren! I really appreciate you efforts here but what I was wanting to know is how you guys are making nice square, clean sockets for the barrel of the hinge to recess into. I tried the Brodak tool with so-so results. I end up wondering off center, the slot is sometimes cut at an angle looking at it from the edge. or into the hinge slot.

Clay

Good lord....I wrote all of that post and edited the pictures, and I didn't even understand the question.....poop! Just like back in school!! <g>

Well, I'll try again. Here is the tool I made for sanding the groove into the leading edge of the control surface to allow the barrel of the hinge to be recessed into that surface. The sanding surface is made from a finger nail file, which had to be made wider to achieve the width necessary for the hinge. The depth of the cut was controlled by glueing the proper thichness shim under the finger nail file.

In use, you just hold the tool perpendicular to the edge of the control surface, and gently sand down until the tool bottoms out. It's impossible to sand too deep or to an uneven deepth. It's quick and does a perfect job every time.

You do have to be careful to hold the tool 90 degrees to the axis of the hinge barrel or else the recess will have ends that are not perperdicular to the control surface. Does that make sense?

Please tell me I got it right this time !!

I can't take credit for the design of the tool....I think that I first saw it in a post by Larry Cunningham.

The second photo again shows what the finished product looks like.

I couldn't tell from the pictures just how the Brodak tool was supposed to help you make the hinge barrel recesses. Could you please give a brief explaination.

Cheers.

Warren Wagner

Bill Little · « **Reply #8 on:** September 20, 2006, 09:38:02 PM »

Thanks for the pictures, Warren.

That is basically the same tool I make.

Bill <><

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2006, 10:30:20 PM »

Warren & everyone,

Thanks for the info. And Warren I'm sorry you went to all that trouble on my account. On the bright side I'm sure someone will benefit from your posts. It is appreciated.

I've got a tool like that. The problem I have been having is holding it perpendicular.

Practise, practise, practise.

Hinging has always been a weakness of mine. $:-\$

Warren Wagner · « **Reply #10 on:** September 21, 2006, 06:35:59 AM »

Quote from: Clay Schmidt on September 20, 2006, 10:30:20 PM

Warren & everyone,

Thanks for the info. And Warren I'm sorry you went to all that trouble on my account. On the bright side I'm sure someone will benefit from your posts. It is appreciated.

I've got a tool like that. The problem I have been having is holding it perpendicular.

Practise, practise, practise. Hinging has always been a weakness of mine. $:-\$

Clay,

I guess that your original question was a little vague....next time, I will ask "Whatdayou mean?" before jumping to a conclusion, and developing a mind set. When Eric mention "Slot Machine", I thought I understood the question.

YES, for some crazy reason, I do find that it's easy to mis-align the "hinge pocket sanding tool" and develop a pocket that is slightly canted. Usually, I'll check the angle half way through the sanding.

My solution is to simply examine the pocket, and REVERSE the control surface as I sand. You can straighten the pocket when you are all done with the only consequence of widening the pocket slightly. No harm done.

I hope people understand what we are talking about. If not, tell me, and I will make a sample and take pictures.

Cheers.

Warren Wagner

Ron Merrill · « **Reply #11 on:** September 21, 2006, 09:15:13 AM »

Like some of the others i use the Wind/Brodak tool to cut the slot, go slow and it will come out square, but to cut the slot i use the Dremmel router table and tool to cut the slot. Put the dremmel in the router table, adjust the height and it will cut straight and repeat each cut exactly. THATS Windy/Brodak tool.

Ron.

Ironbomb · « **Reply #12 on:** September 21, 2006, 09:21:47 AM »

Warren, your first reply was still full of good info. It was your "cut razor blade" tip that made the light go on for me. I never had any fun with my DuBro slotting tools, and only marginal fun with my GP Slot machine. I may go back to the hand tools after sharpening them like you suggested. Great info, thanks

Greg

Bill Little · « **Reply #13 on:** September 21, 2006, 05:56:56 PM »

Quote from: Ron Merrill on September 21, 2006, 09:15:13 AM

Like some of the others i use the Wind/Brodak tool to cut the slot, go slow and it will come out square, but to cut the slot i use the Dremmel router table and tool to cut the slot. Put the dremmel in the router table, adjust the height and it will cut straight and repeat each cut exactly. THATS Windy/Brodak tool. Ron.

HI Ron,

I guess Windy can take credit for the sanding tool, but I had made one before I saw them on his tapes.

I also have a cowl ring sanding tool that is super simple and easy to use, but I guess Windy made that, too.

I have been to Windy's shop and on a couple of his tapes so I can poke at him a *little*.

Have fun!

Bill <><

Eric Viglione · « **Reply #14 on:** September 21, 2006, 06:10:38 PM »

Warren - Glad I could help get you moving off the couch! Heh... Actually, I thought I had seen photo's of your hinge pocket sander before, and thought you might have had them handy, didn't mean to give you a photo essay. Since I use the big Klett hinges, I don't worry too much about the width of the cut from the GP SlotMachine.

My sanding block for insetting the barrels is crude compared to yours, but then that's what I didn't post mine. Hah!

Eric V

Greg L Bahrman · « **Reply #15 on:** September 21, 2006, 06:38:27 PM »

Hinges are not my favorite part of building. I'll try Warrens way next time as it looks more repeatable. I use Warren and Bills sanding block also. Thanks Warren and Eric too.

John Christensen · « **Reply #16 on:** September 22, 2006, 11:04:56 AM »

If the stab, flaps and elevators are flat (such as 1/4 " balsa sheet) here is another method that can be used. You need a drill press and a saw blade about 1" in diameter. The blade I have is .005" thick (I think) and has a 1/8" shank. Set the blade in the drill press such that it would cut a slot in the middle of the sheet (1/8" for a 1/4" flap). Now place a piece of 1/64" plywood under your balsa sheet and slide the balsa sheet into the spinning blade. Flip the balsa sheet over and slide it again into the spinning blade. Now you have two slots cut into the balsa sheet that are 1/32" apart and parallel to each other. Do the same for the other hinge slots in the sheet and they will also be parallel to each other. Now I use the fork shown above to finish the hole. The two slots are used a a guide for the fork.

I have found that if the blade is not exactly in the center of the balsa sheet, that will also work as long as the two cuts made are not more than 1/32" apart from each other. I just use the cuts as a guide for the fork and if they are less than 1/32" apart it will still work. It can take a number or tries to get the blade centered in the middle of the balsa sheet.

Before using the fork I used a #11 blade to pick the balsa out between the two cuts. Have found that the fork will work better with some of the balsa removed.

Ron Merrill · « **Reply #17 on:** September 22, 2006, 01:15:53 PM »

Bill, wait till i talk to Windy, he told me he was first. You just had to pop my balloon.

. What does your nose ring jig look like? Ron.

Bill Little · « **Reply #18 on:** September 22, 2006, 01:36:50 PM »

Quote from: Ron Merrill on September 22, 2006, 01:15:53 PM

Bill, wait till i talk to Windy, he told me he was first. You just had to pop my balloon. . What does your nose ring jig look like? Ron.

Hi Ron,

I will post a picture when I get home. It is super simple and works great. Might take a *little* more time than something else, but it is *controlable*.

It is nothing more than two pieces of plywood with one having a piece of 80 grit attached to it. The piece with the sandpaper has a circle cut out to clear the prop drive washer. The backing is "solid" except for a center hole to match the prop shaft. I have one that is 1/4 and another that is 5/16th. Depending on how thick a piece you use for your sandpaper piece gives you the clearance between the spinneer BP and cowl ring. I use 1/8th, but I never get to that depth. I have thought about useing just 1/16th. That would be plenty to have and still get the finish on it.

Bill <><

Alan Hayes · « **Reply #19 on:** September 23, 2006, 07:14:33 PM »

I have been using the hinge sander for years with great success but the single edge blade used by Warren is new to me.

I will give it a try on my next project!!

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #20 on:** September 24, 2006, 03:45:15 PM »

Guys,

I just can't seem to make a good hinge pocket by hand so I pondered on my problem awhile and I believe I've come up with a solution.

It may not be the safest way to go about cutting hinge pockets, but it works great everytime. Just be careful and keep your fingers out of the way.

I got my router out and installed my template following attachment along with a 1/4" straight cutting bit.

I made a fixture to hold my flying surface. In this case it's 3/8 stock. The hole in the jig is sized for a 1" Klett hinge.

Simply place what ever you are cutting pockets into, line it up, carefully place it on the router, and wittle away. Takes about 15 seconds to make a pocket.

Here they are, nice and square, and all sized exactly the same.

Clay

Bob Reeves · « **Reply #21 on:** September 24, 2006, 04:14:45 PM »

I sorta do the same but use a Dremel router table with a 1/8th bit and cut from the other direction. This leaves a 1/8 radius at the ends but it looks pretty good. Faster than sanding and like you say same depth every time.

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #22 on:** September 24, 2006, 06:23:17 PM »

Bob,

So you are laying you stock flat on the router tabler? Then using the fence as a guide and also to set the depth? That would be less hassle than my method. A little radius in the corners would look nice.

Clay

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #23 on:** September 26, 2006, 11:59:49 AM »

Yup! Bobby showed me the pocket sander about 16 yrs. ago. Been using them (1 for each size hinge I use) and this also from Bob for cutting the slots. Draw the halfway line and poke the pickle fork, Then cut the slot with the X-Acto saw. Make it as wide or narrow as needed. Not sure of the blade #, but you get the picture!

Bob Reeves · « **Reply #24 on:** September 28, 2006, 10:46:18 AM »

Quote from: Clay Schmidt on September 24, 2006, 06:23:17 PM

Bob,

So you are laying you stock flat on the router table? Then using the fence as a guide and also to set the depth? That would be less hassle than my method. A little radius in the corners would look nice.

Clay

Exactly, if the stock is tapered I just use the other flap/elevator to shim up the one I am cutting so the leading edge is 90 deg to the router bit. Also found a cut down 1/8 roto zip cutter works really well.

And BTW: I use a Great Planes hinge slotter to cut the slots, the extra width isn't a problem in the flap/elevators as it gets sealed off with epoxy when I install the hinges. Extra width in the wing/stab just means I can fudge a little if things don't line up exactly.

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #25 on:** September 28, 2006, 11:34:30 AM »

Bob,

My Dad has one of those electric hinge slotters. I've really do not have much experience with it. Dad's complaint is that it's hard to control. It's there a jig or trick so a guy can get good repeatable results?

Thanks for telling us about your method. I'm going to give it a try on the flaps.

Clay

Tom Perry · « **Reply #26 on:** September 28, 2006, 12:21:22 PM »

Clay,

It is best to use scrap wood and practice before tying it on the real thing. The blades will try to "walk on you if you don't retain control. I've found that marking the hing location and then cutting a small starter chip out of the balsa helps prevent the walking. Instead of going straight in I go in at an angle then rock the blades in. I've managed to develop a style where I use my thumbnail against the end of the machine to guide the blade into starting position. If I can get someone else to take the picture I'll try to send one later.

One other important note:

My unit came with the small blades installed. When changing blade you need to apply heat to the screw holing the blades in before loosening it. After changing re-apply loctite to the fitting. this is not covered in the instructions. You can go here to get the tech notes on blade changing:

http://www.greatplanes.com/techsupport/gpmr4010tech.html#blades

Bob Reeves · « **Reply #27 on:** September 28, 2006, 06:35:46 PM »

Great Planes makes an accessory guide for the Hinge Slotter that works pretty well.. Like TPerry I developed a "system" that worked before the guide was avaliable, even though I bought the guide when it came out I seldom use it.

Bill Little · « **Reply #28 on:** September 28, 2006, 07:22:38 PM »

Iuse the same saw blade as WVD when I cut hinge slots. Plus I use a metal nail file from the Cosmetics Dept. at Walgreen.

Now I try to use nylon taffeta hinges as much as possible. They become almost invisible, no need to "tape" the hinge gaps if run continuosly, and are much quicker to apply and finish. Being a tad bit lighter doesn't hurt either.

Bill <><

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #29 on:** September 28, 2006, 10:41:18 PM »

Hi Bill,

I've never heard of nylon taffeta hinges. Got a picture?

Clay

Bill Little · « **Reply #30 on:** September 28, 2006, 10:53:16 PM »

Quote from: Clay Schmidt on September 28, 2006, 10:41:18 PM

Hi Bill,

I've never heard of nylon taffeta hinges. Got a picture?

Clay

Hi Clay,

Sorry, I don't have a picture handy, but I will post one if I can remember. They are applied like regular cloth hinges, but the material is light and thin, and never seems to wear out. I guess you could call them "over and under" when you apply them. I use Ambroids, Duco, or Nitrate dope to affix them. If you put them side by side leaving a *little* less than a 1/16th" between them it gives you a basically sealed hinge line. You put them on before you cover the wings/flaps or stab/elev.

Bill <><

Curmudgeon · « **Reply #31 on:** September 29, 2006, 09:26:39 PM »

Clay, lets see if I can do this right.....

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #32 on:** September 29, 2006, 10:49:21 PM »

Thanks Larry!

rob biddle · « **Reply #33 on:** September 29, 2006, 11:24:09 PM »

Hi Gents, Does anyone Know where I can get me one of those X-acto Pickle forks and saw?
Never seen them in a Local hobby (r/c arf) store over here, but I can think of a whole bunch of uses for the saw in particular.
Thanks, Rob.

Bill Little · « **Reply #34 on:** September 30, 2006, 10:14:10 AM »

Quote from: Larry Price on September 29, 2006, 09:26:39 PM

Clay, lets see if I can do this right.....

Thanks, again, Larry!

Bill <><

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #35 on:** October 08, 2006, 08:28:27 PM »

The pickle fork by DuBro...The x-acto blade is a #26 I think

Clay Schmidt · « **Reply #36 on:** October 08, 2006, 10:31:54 PM »

I ordered mine from Tower hobbies. We don't have a local hobby shop anymore. What a bummer.

Ward,

I got some of those saw blades. They work great for hinge slots and other little tasks as well. Thanks for the info.

Clay

rob biddle · « **Reply #37 on:** October 09, 2006, 02:11:59 AM »

Hi folks, thanks for that. I will try and order them from Tower Hobbies.
The L.H.S here doesn't care too much for us "builder" types anymore.

It's much easier to get stuff from the U.S nowadays than from my lhs.
Cheers, Rob.

Jerry Reider · « **Reply #38 on:** June 05, 2010, 09:16:03 PM »

Thanks Warren. Cutting hinge pockets has always been a difficult task for me. Your step by step description with pictures is a real help. I just cut a test pocket in a scrap piece and it worked GREAT!!!!! On center, no bulge because of not enough balsa being removed from the slot, it's easy and quick. I'd recommend this for the suggestion fo the year if it were up to me.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #39 on:** June 06, 2010, 10:03:36 AM »

Alernate method to get perfect hinge pockets is to build it from a lamination instead of cutting it. I make it from 3 pieces with the middle layer being 1/32 balsa, leaving openings in that midddle layer where ever you want a hinge pocket. The resulting pockets are just a little too tight to accept most barrel hinges, but are very easy to open up by using 150 PSA sandpaper, 2 pieces stuck back to back.
I make the assy wide enough that it can be ripped into 2 pieces to make a perfect matching set for either the stab/elevator or flap hinge line.

John Hammonds · « **Reply #40 on:** June 10, 2010, 05:26:38 AM »

I can second Allan's method, I'm a poor builder at best but get the most consistant results using this method. Only thing I would add is when laminating be sure to alternate the grain direction and keep everything weighted down on a perfectly flat surface until you are absolutely sure the glue really has cured. Otherwise you can find yourself in "Warp City", as usual no need to ask how I know this.

TTFN
John.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #41 on:** June 10, 2010, 06:54:04 AM »

Quote from: John Hammonds on June 10, 2010, 05:26:38 AM

I can second Allan's method, I'm a poor builder at best but get the most consistant results using this method. Only thing I would add is when laminating be sure to alternate the grain direction and keep everything weighted down on a perfectly flat surface until you are absolutely sure the glue really has cured. Otherwise you can find yourself in "Warp City", as usual no need to ask how I know this.

TTFN
John.

Yes, I orient the grain of the 1/32 middle layer 90° to the hinge line. On the warp issue, you want to use straight stock with clear straight grain. Another thing that helps, instead of water based glue, you can use laminating resin. If your stock pieces have any bow before glue up, orient the pieces so the bows cancel each other.

Jerry Reider · « **Reply #42 on:** June 12, 2010, 07:12:44 PM »

I have all the hinges dry fit in the flaps for my Fancherized Twister. I used the method you described Warren and they turned out great. As soon as I tilt the wing over center the flaps drop to the lower side. They are all on center and the pockets got great, all nice and even. I'm working on getting the music wire in position that connects the flaps. That's a whole other battle in itself. If I find an easy way to do that I'll post it.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #43 on:** August 23, 2010, 08:39:37 PM »

Quote from: Warren Wagner on September 20, 2006, 07:04:17 PM

Well Clay, I'm glad you asked. Hinge slotting is one of my favorite topics !!! (Un-huh) It's something that bugged me for years, but now, with the proper tools and technique, it's a piece of cake.

I was going to watch TV, but thanks to Eric V, I now have to edit pictures and write copy. Thanks a lot ! <g>

I have avoided the "Slot Machine" for one reason.....it makes slots that are too wide. The reason that I am concerned about this point, is that on transparent wings, I have seen semi-circles of oil that has soaked in around the hinges. For that reason, I try to make the hinge pockets only large enough for the hinges, and I always try to seal them with excess glue (I use a water soluble glue for installing hinges).

Once you have the proper tools, and use the proper technique, the hinging process can go along quickly, and you can end up with perfect hinge pockets.

Use what ever technique you like to establish the centerline position for the hinge slots. There are several devices on the market, and I have most of them....use the one that gives you the most accuracy.

There are several 'plunge forks' and 'digging tools' on the market. Try several and find the one that works best for you. Here is the important point.....THE TOOLS MUST BE SHARP!!! They are NOT manufactured this way...you must file and hone the tips until they cut the balsa easily.

The first photo show the 'plunge fork' establishing the ends of the hinge pocket. Again, you must hone this tool until it cuts easily.

After cutting with the 'plunge fork', the only thing left to form you hinge pocket is to remove the center section. Here's my secret: I cut (Dremel cutting disk, or simply snap the blade) an ordinary single edge razor blade to the *length* of the hinge pocket. Now, very carefully plunge cut both sides of the hinge pocket. (second photo)

Now, if you have make the cuts properly, the remaining balsa will pop out in one piece (third photo). Bingo, you're done. On to the next slot.

And the final results are shown in the fourth photo.

Again, the key to efficiently cutting hinge slots is the proper SHARP tools, and careful technique. Don't hesitate to fabricate your own tools, or modify commercial ones to improve their performance.

Give it a try....I hope this is helpful to some.

Cheers.

Warren Wagner

I tried you razor blade tool. Worked good , but I felt like it needed a handle. So I took a stick about 3/8 x 3/4 about 6" long, cut a kerf in it on the bandsaw the depth of the backing and CA'd it in place. Gives you much more control. 2nd picture shows the 3 tools in the DuBro set. The largest fork is not as big as the Klett hinges I was using so I cut one tang off of the smallest tool. I plung one side at a time which actually makes it easier to use .

Dennis Saydak · « **Reply #44 on:** November 30, 2010, 10:41:46 AM »

I'd like to thank Warren for his detailed description for making hinge pockets. This has always been a task I've dreaded. I haven't done any serious building for awhile so I decided to break open a Brodak 1/2A Pathfinder kit I had to hone up my building skills before tackling something more serious. I used Warren's method to make the stab hinge pockets and they turned out as nice as I could have ever hoped for. I no longer dread this task.

BTW, this kit may technically be 1/2A but the build is pretty much the equivalent of building the big Pathfinder.

Author Topic: hinge pockets (Read 5918 times)

Eric Viglione

Eric Viglione

Curmudgeon