I posted my flap "sealing" method in the open forum:

https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/imbedded-flaps/msg673327/#msg673327

Ken

Maybe I got something wrong from your pictures, but if you add such a lever between the bellcrank and canard horn, doesn't it reverse the movement..?
I think you'll need a logarithmic gadget for the canard, too.
L

First pic of it all in one place.  Almost half finished!

Ken

In case you are curious, or even if you aren't, the wing center section had to remain open to connect the rather elaborate control system and get all of the conduits for the wires going everywhere.  So, I glued the wing to the bottom of the fuselage and left the top planking off.  What I discovered doing it this way was having full access to the bellcrank with the wing glued into the fuselage is really cool.  Regardless of bellcrank size I make all of my control systems to go from neutral to full deflection with 1 1/2" of leadout movement.  That is 3" of wrist from full up to full down.  With it finally assembled I got to see if it all worked.  3" exactly!  Since I have a 5" bellcrank I was worried that I got the stops wrong.

Made a design change.  Experimentation with the Canard on Endgame III has led to the need for different positioning and different control methods.  Since this plane is intended to be my 2025 NATS plane I have decided to leave the Canard off.

Ken

Or not...I am rethinking my rethinking.  The Canard was not intended to be the pitch control.  It was to take pressure off of the handle and add stability (tracking).  It accomplished both of those on Endgame III so maybe it stays...or not.

Today was fun if you like trying to remove parts glued in with JB Super Weld.  I was testing my controls after installing the nacelles to make sure I didn't create a bind anywhere when I noticed how far back they seemed to be.  I was marking the CG range that I wanted on the wing and about to position the leadouts about 3/4" behind that when I discovered that with the leadout guide fully forward I was 1 1/2" back from where they needed to be.  That qualifies as a Quad "P".  So I tried to figure how I had messed up and found the cause.  As I mentioned in another thread the plane was supposed to have a GEO-Bolt wing but I changed it to a GEO-XL at the last minute.  What I didn't so was change the tips.  I used the same tip plan as Endgame III with the GEO-Bolt wing.  So I ripped out the adjustable slider mount and repositioned it 1 1/2" forward and closed it back up.  A little sanding and some filler and we are good to go.  Well almost.  The new angle needed to have it's path cleared for the leadouts. 

Electrical wire came today.  16 gauge stranded copper.  It is a little bit stiffer than the standard RC wire.  These nacelles are cramped so I am making a mounting plate for the motor wires and cutting them back to about 1 1/4". 

What do you call the correction for a Quad "P" when it doesn't work?  A Quint "P"?  Moving the timer to the nose caused it to too far from the accelerometer mount.  Aggh....  So now it is back to it's original location but lower in the bottom hatch so that I can see it behind the nacelle.  Wing is glued in.  I used the Hunt method.  Mounted the motors in the nacelles and used a 14" piece of 3/8" poplar as faux prop set.  Fixed that in a fixture 90 degrees to the workbench then mounted the wing using my trusted Robarts meter.  Works, thanks Bob.  Slid the bearings onto the canard shaft and glued them in alligned with the wing centerline.  Checked the control linkages and added the center sheeting.  The fourth pix is the adjustable accelerometer pad mount.  The spacers are silicone fuel line.  With this pad design, stolen from Crist Rigotti, you can achieve perfect alignment of the pad. Starting to look like an airplane!

To continue the timer saga I put the props on the motors to see what it would look like and discovered that the timer start button was in the prop arc.  Moved it forward just enough to give me room to start it.  Now the aft hatch hold down screw is blocked by the timer.  Scratch building has it's challenges!

Ken

Ah, the bellcrank - 5" dual sided to let me mount the canard.  I needed to add the lever arm to allow the pushrod to be far enough away from the post then reduce it so that I only got 10-20 degrees deflection.

Time to put everything together and see how it fits.  Some does, some needs some persuading.  52 0z as it sits.  Both motors, ESC's timer props and battery.  All that is missing is the finish and wheels.  It is conceivable I will make my 65oz target!

Ken

If I recall my history of the P38, the prop rotation direction was very significant. Ultimately they had to swap the engines left for right to get the correct flight characteristics. It might be something to research. As currently set up, it looks like you will have upwash over the tail making takeoff more difficult. Perhaps someone with actual twin experience can set this straight, as I am only talking theory.

Otherwise a marvelous project! Thanks for sharing. 🤠

I worked allot with Mr. Twin, Bob Hunt in the early design.  The nacelle spacing and inline setup as well as the wing have his blessing.  He has commented that the prop rotation may need to be changed after it is flown.  Super easy.  Just swap in the ESC and swap props.  Having the Canard in clean air will be interesting.  On Endgame III the prop is in front of the canard. 

Thanks for dropping by - Ken

My Rizngmaster is over 5 years old and the finish is fine.

🤠

Plane is fully built and assembled that makes it about 50% finished.  Sanding is the next 20% covering 10% and the last 30% finish - Ugg.  Time to select a paint scheme.  This is my sketchpad.  Just to document the evolution I thought I would post the original design and what I actually built.  I can't remember what made me decide to switch fuselages.  I am afraid now that I am stuck with an USAF or Navy paint scheme.

Ken

No wonder you say "UGG", your numbers add to 110% to build!  I only do 100% on my builds, it takes less time!  I'm a Navy Vet, but how about a Marine (Dept of the Navy) throw back scheme with a bit of color?

Don

Actually the numbers are understated.  I just discovered that I glued in all of my pocket hinges too early and I have to drill them out and replace them.  All for the best.  I used too small a bushing and it all but guaranteed I would have an issue with the pull wire down the road.  Beats me why, probably because I didn't have any brass at the time but I bushed them with aluminum.  I like the Navy gray.  My Father and little brother were Navy pilots.  Me, I was Air Force ground crew.  I may go with the USAF white.  Yours is looking good!

Ken

Fly it!  You'll be forever curious about what might have been if you don't.

With it all glued together, no matter how hard you try not to, your mind starts to imagine paint schemes.  These are two that were suggested patterned after Navy trainers.  I am also thinking of something involving the flag of just gray with panel lines.

I agree with Steve, the second one!  Go Navy!!

Don

No wonder you say "UGG", your numbers add to 110% to build!  I only do 100% on my builds, it takes less time!  I'm a Navy Vet, but how about a Marine (Dept of the Navy) throw back scheme with a bit of color?

Don

Yes, but the last 10% takes 90% of the time.

Finally got it up to the point of the first pass of Blue Stuff (Super Fil).  30 minutes of putting it on and three days of taking it off!  Let the dust begin!

Did my favorite big soft balsa fillets!

Ken

Progress update.  Construction is finished.  Starting on sanding.  First step is to fill every crack and crevasse with SuperFil.  It looks like a lot, but it is actually a very small amount.  All of the fillets, stab and wing are feather light balsa. I spread superfil over them to create the crust, rub it in with alcohol then sand it all off.  I know the accepted method is to mask it off but I like the extra hardening of the wider area and how much better it feathers.  Add to that having to build without the benefit of a proper workbench has resulted in a lot of places to fill!  I found the three post on/on microswitch and have it installed so that I can plug in the Jeti box without having to disconnect the 2nd ESC.

Another 2 weeks of sanding and I will be ready for covering.  My plan is a bit, perhaps allot, out of the mainstream.
 I cannot use anything that has a smell.  I have tried ModPodge but the final finish was not to my liking.  I tried SLC over Polyspan which was good except for the curves and ended up no better than monokote.  So, right now the plan is to use White Monokote on the wings and stab.  Polyspan applied with Z-Poxy on the nacelles and fuselage with a slight overlap onto the monokote.  I will try and put the actual finish over all of this with light coats low stink after hours so that the smell doesn't get into the AC. Finish will be light coatsI am open to suggestions on this.  I need the aft fuselage strength.  I built the fuselage from 1/16 with lots of "X" braces and I am not happy with it at all.  I considered .5oz glass which may be lighter than polyspan.  I will heat shrink the polyspan before rubbing in the Z-Poxy.

I am considering this for the paint.  It comes in lots of colors.  Has anybody tried this or something similar?

https://www.amazon.com/BELTECO-Odorless-Eco-Friendly-UV-Resistant-Substrates/dp/B0CZTS77D8/ref=sr_1_3?adgrpid=1338106215000375&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6r2lxF8654OAhAkTg31z695l8AUxiQIQ1MdLka-od9ipVUKHe8Yex4_2fqXREK5m8LZ_MxeoRoNGqL1lp-w_5UUupeZ_GoZM2d5mYi_Zc3HHMhfskGsiZl_i4-ZcgpfEVfEnuaJ8G715dkg-hepu0AcUmdM5KTCZ8Z5JTsfnnyZ_kDjq11q-WkNo8FjTW-TpjJDvSkjAej7asWYcUxg2Wu5SD4OyXv06_0yszK5IVJ6rtBR61JO4QK0XZoanfmZzNNPt1Qbt_jbK0eE04pBcdupUrkEvkl7L0HUvLVUvTTI.h9047A5e-cfB0-mGfqVULbYzKxs4n2EmVHm0IjQZXHU&dib_tag=se&hvadid=83631877526041&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=77349&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=b&hvtargid=kwd-83631982224536%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=343_1014977545&keywords=odorless%2Bspray%2Bpaint&msclkid=6d7807ce61fb1271d11a60feba02bbba&qid=1731255317&sr=8-3&th=1

Ken

Interesting stuff, Ken. On the odorless front, I have been using Eze Dope from Deluxe Materials over here in Singapore because regular dope isn't available. It behaves pretty much exactly like dope and I have been using it with both silkspan and polyspan. It's completely odorless and thins with water. The only major difference I notice is that it seems to take a couple more coats than regular dope needs. But since it thins 70/30 water/dope, I don't think there's much, if any weight penalty.

Thanks a bunch!  I will get some and try it out.  Does it sand well and will rattle can colors work?  Best news is that it is available at Hobby Town!!  Thank you for the lead.  I was starting to think that nobody read the build threads anymore.

Ken

Thanks a bunch!  I will get some and try it out.  Does it sand well and will rattle can colors work?  Best news is that it is available at Hobby Town!!  Thank you for the lead.  I was starting to think that nobody read the build threads anymore.

Ken

Sure thing. It sands well, but not quite "real" dope well. I find that instead of the usual 2 coats, sand, 2 coats, sand; I have to do 3 coats, sand, 2-3 coats, sand. I'll even go down to 600 on the final sanding in some areas. And if you don't let it get totally dry before doing another coat or sanding, it'll roll up and create little marbles like tires do in car races. The final result is pretty close to real dope, though. Including on open bays. If it weren't for the lack of a yellowish tint, I'd find it hard to tell the difference if presented with two finished pieces. And yes, rattlecan goes over it totally fine. Deluxe Materials has a couple videos on Eze Dope on their YouTube page that may be of help when you start messing with it.

Gave in to mass pressure and got some Canopy Glue.  End result a perfect fit!

Ken

With the ' WAKE ' / Vortice fred on the other day ,

it sprang to mind , LATER , that that was what those were for .



But youd still get VORTICES of heir Tips ( the End Plates )so if you put end plates on the end plates ,
and put some on the ends of them .    .    .    .    .     

These are the other tips , everybody fitted to everything .

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTaEoGu0FF7p_5p7N3ZAAvQw0YWoU6AEkH9ww&s