Author Topic: Endgame III Build (Read 10630 times)

Matt Colan · « **Reply #50 on:** August 21, 2022, 08:20:18 AM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on August 21, 2022, 08:14:31 AM

It's a prince of a wing. Wonder who built it?

Ken

Hahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!! A prince couldn’t come up with the ideas in that wing

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #51 on:** August 21, 2022, 08:34:25 AM »

Quote from: Matt Colan on August 21, 2022, 08:20:18 AM

Hahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!! A prince couldn’t come up with the ideas in that wing

I do love to tinker! FYI, I found the boost problem with Trifacta. You were right, it was flat.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #52 on:** September 09, 2022, 11:16:18 AM »

Slow progress. I have boxed in the Canards and Monokoted them. Stab is next then the wing gets fitted and installed. Installed a Hatch Latch to supplement the small magnets and built a new Cam for the rudder. One of our elder statesmen posted that the rudder should move on both outboard and inboard about the same amount. I have always done that but not at differing rates. The one I just made will give me 1/8" travel at the rudder TE but it will get there faster on an outside. My next task, after the tail feathers is to design an adjustable fitting for the Canard. Pitch is simple and already there with set screws. I am after rate and I think I have an idea how to do it. With the top deck on my only access will be through the bottom with an Allen driver. Does CF take heat? I may have to solder a washer next to the tube. Maybe I should use JB Weld instead. My current specifications call for 45 degrees on the elevator, 25 degrees on the flaps and 10 degrees on the Canard at full deflection with logarithmic deflection on the flaps. Both the Elevator and Canard will have field rate adjustments of about 5 degrees either way. Flaps will require shop time but everything in the flap control unit is removable.

I have absolutely no Idea what to expect on a first flight with the Canard. I hope some of you that have flown them can chime in.

Ken

PS The cell phone camera I use distorts things a lot. The Nose is larger, and the tail is smaller than what appears in the picture.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #53 on:** September 09, 2022, 07:49:09 PM »

I have a problem with finishing. I cannot use any spray equipment where I am building. Would it violate the BOM rule if I gave the plane to a friend to have it clear coated?

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #54 on:** September 17, 2022, 11:30:20 AM »

I am getting close to the point that many of the features of the plane are going to be enclosed and therefore very difficult to adjust. The major one being the throw on the Canard. Right now it is set at 10 degrees both directions with an adjustment capability of 5 degrees either way. The 5 degrees adjustable is fixed by the design of the control horn but the 10 degrees base movement will be set. So I have an effective range of 5 - 15. If anybody has any thoughts on how much movement I should have for the Canard I would really like to hear from you.

Ken

john e. holliday · « **Reply #55 on:** September 17, 2022, 08:46:58 PM »

Ken, if you check th finishing sectin you will see several top notch pilots/builders have had their planes clear coated in paint booths by the person who has the booth or facilities.

Brett Buck · « **Reply #56 on:** September 17, 2022, 09:08:52 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on September 17, 2022, 08:46:58 PM

Ken, if you check th finishing sectin you will see several top notch pilots/builders have had their planes clear coated in paint booths by the person who has the booth or facilities.

I think you should probably apply the clear yourself, although using other people's facilities is A-OK. Uncle Jimby got 20 points with a plane painted in his garage, replete with dog hair, so you don't necessarily need a booth. Might take some elbow grease later.

I also painted a 17 and 18 pointer in the same garage. So, it is not the facilities!

Brett

Wolfgang Nieuwkamp · « **Reply #57 on:** September 18, 2022, 10:46:57 AM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on September 17, 2022, 11:30:20 AM

I am getting close to the point that many of the features of the plane are going to be enclosed and therefore very difficult to adjust. The major one being the throw on the Canard. Right now it is set at 10 degrees both directions with an adjustment capability of 5 degrees either way. The 5 degrees adjustable is fixed by the design of the control horn but the 10 degrees base movement will be set. So I have an effective range of 5 - 15. If anybody has any thoughts on how much movement I should have for the Canard I would really like to hear from you.

Ken

Hello Ken,

since your canard is on the small side, you could use a lot more travel. On my plane I use +/- 45 ° for the canard, +/- 20 for the flaps, and +/- 30° for the elevator.
Regards,

Wolfgang

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #58 on:** September 18, 2022, 10:57:47 AM »

Quote from: Wolfgang Nieuwkamp on September 18, 2022, 10:46:57 AM

Hello Ken,

since your canard is on the small side, you could use a lot more travel. On my plane I use +/- 45 ° for the canard, +/- 20 for the flaps, and +/- 30° for the elevator.
Regards,

Wolfgang

If I remember correctly, yours is of the conventional "stab/elevator" design. Mine is full "floating". Would that make a difference. My experience with sailplanes was that a floating stab needed about half the movement of a conventional elevator.

Ken

Wolfgang Nieuwkamp · « **Reply #59 on:** September 22, 2022, 09:24:11 AM »

Hello Ken,

Your memory is correct. I have no experience with floating elevators, so trial and error is the way to go...
Regards,

Wolfgang

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #60 on:** October 25, 2022, 11:39:49 AM »

With all of the subassemblies completed it is time to focus attention on the nose and power train. It is at this juncture that I remember how easy it was to mount the power train on an IC. The battery and ESC mount on a removable hatch (not used to change batteries) that runs from the back of the motor to the midpoint of the wing. The components mount on a 1/16" plywood plate screwed to the hatch that can slide 1/2" in either direction. Both the battery and ESC are in a wind tunnel fed by the two front scoops. With the hatch removed you have full access to the entire nose and the Canard horn for adjustment.

Power is a Jetti Spin66, Fiorotti Timer, BadAss 3515 and TP 2800 batteries. The Battery compartment was sized for the 6s which I will switch to if I come out heavier than expected. Target weight 65oz.

The Canard is mounted on a 5mm solid CF rod run through a pair of ball bearings imbedded in the fuselage sides. They are held in place by two 5mm collars using set screws which makes them infinitely adjustable.

The flap horn is quite unique. As far as I know there are only two of them and mine may be the only one mounted. It was designed by Mark Wood and some pictures of it are on some of his threads. He was developing it for his new project and made one for me to try. It is a piece of work. If you are into logarithmic it has everything in one REMOVABEL package. The main drive ratios are adjustable, and the flaps are split and independently adjustable. It took some doing to get everything aligned. The horn was 3D printed using composites and is super smooth. I spend a lot of time on the internet trying to come up with a 2" turnbuckle pushrod and links that would fit. I found what I needed in RC car parts.

The CAM rudder is powered by a CF pushrod attached to the bottom of the flap horn using a Du-Bro mini ball link.

Flaps and elevators are hinged using Robart Pocket hinges. The elevators are imbedded 1/4". The flaps are not.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #61 on:** November 03, 2022, 05:10:16 PM »

Fully assembled with motor, electronics and battery installed. 53oz. Heavier than I wanted at this point but I don't think the monokote will add that much. Target is 65. As you can tell from the pictures, I like to keep things simple.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #62 on:** December 05, 2022, 03:48:12 PM »

It is all together in one piece now awaiting covering. Sadly, when taking a picture of the nose I discovered that the Canard was very slightly tilted. So that will have to be fixed. All up weight at this point is 58oz so my new target is 63. When a plane takes over a year it picks up a whole bunch of dings and surgery marks. Soon they will all be covered! Couple of pictures. Sorry about the office clutter. I am hoping to get the pre-finish flights in sometime in early January.

Having some special Li-ion 6s batteries made to power this beast. Instead to the 3&3 triangular shape I am making them square 4&2 with the leads coming out of the center. This gives me 6 possible positions for the battery that will have different C/G's (both vertical and horizontal) for each. I will post a picture when they are done.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #63 on:** March 17, 2023, 09:36:50 PM »

Getting close. Canopy and interior finished. Monday the canopy gets glued on and covered so I can fill and sand. Only construction left is to rehinge the inboard flap. The TE was just too thin for Robarts so I pulled them and replaced with DuBro on a single .025 wire. Silkspan on the fillets then monokote the wings, stab and rudder. Then it is a sneak trip to the circle to see if I have any serious trim issues AND that the Canard is not a huge mistake. Fortunately, it can be removed easily and that is why I am saving the final finish till after I fly it. I will try and remember to video the madden flight.

I got a set of incredibly light wide track 2" wheels from Crist Rigotti and I have the bend a new set of LG wires for them. The power train has been installed and tested so with any luck it will be in the air sometime in April.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #64 on:** March 21, 2023, 04:52:07 PM »

Finished the interior and glued the canopy in last night then Super Fill-ed it. Flared it in today and retaped it. Covered the elevators (Flat White MonoKote is really Jet White if you missed that thread). Gave it the once over and filled all the little dings with Minwax Color Changing Wood Filler. That stuff is the best filler I have ever used. Sands easily, feathers with the best of them and changes to balsa color when dry and ready to sand. It even challenges super-fil in making powder when you sand it. Trying to decide it I am going to glass the nose or just monokote over the wood. Tomorrow it is bottom block and hatch covering day.

Ken

Chuck Matheny · « **Reply #65 on:** March 21, 2023, 06:14:41 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on March 21, 2023, 04:52:07 PM

Finished the interior and glued the canopy in last night then Super Fill-ed it. Flared it in today and retaped it. Covered the elevators (Flat White MonoKote is really Jet White if you missed that thread). Gave it the once over and filled all the little dings with Minwax Color Changing Wood Filler. That stuff is the best filler I have ever used. Sands easily, feathers with the best of them and changes to balsa color when dry and ready to sand. It even challenges super-fil in making powder when you sand it. Trying to decide it I am going to glass the nose or just monokote over the wood. Tomorrow it is bottom block and hatch covering day.

Ken

All your detail work looks super..!
I picked up a tub of the Minwax Stainable wood filler..but didn't notice if there was Color Changing filler for sale.
I really like the stainable filler.
I haven't looked into what it will take to rejuvenate the filler as it loses moisture in storage.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #66 on:** March 21, 2023, 06:52:44 PM »

Quote from: Chuck Matheny on March 21, 2023, 06:14:41 PM

..but didn't notice if there was Color Changing filler for sale.
I really like the stainable filler.
I haven't looked into what it will take to rejuvenate the filler as it loses moisture in storage.

I have used that one too. The color change is a bit lighter and looks almost like balsa when it is dry. I am so done with DAP. They have changed their formulations and I had to cut off all of it that I put on. Never hardened to where you could sand it to a powder.

I just noticed something on the canopy that I am going to have to live with. I ran the lip on the outside higher than the fuselage on the inside and you can see it. That sucks but I will leave perfection to the perfectionists. If I sand off the rest of the filler over the plastic and paint it flat black it should look OK. I also have a couple of very faint scratches that I am going to have to rub out...or not.

Ken

john e. holliday · « **Reply #67 on:** March 21, 2023, 07:39:25 PM »

You are doing some terrific work there.

Miotch · « **Reply #68 on:** March 22, 2023, 06:41:56 AM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on March 21, 2023, 06:52:44 PM

I just noticed something on the canopy that I am going to have to live with. I ran the lip on the outside higher than the fuselage on the inside and you can see it. That sucks but I will leave perfection to the perfectionists. If I sand off the rest of the filler over the plastic and paint it flat black it should look OK. I also have a couple of very faint scratches that I am going to have to rub out...or not.

In my life, that is a First-World problem. I have worse things than that on every square inch of my planes. Your plane looks outstanding !!

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #69 on:** March 28, 2023, 06:25:41 PM »

Added the light reflector for the timer that I almost forgot and ...rats...it is Monokote again, even the fuselage. Someday I will get my shop back and I can do a real finish. This one will be a 5 footer. Wing trim design. The Red and Blue are pretty bold, not like my Kindergarten homework in the pix. One great thing about MonoKote. It comes off faster that it goes on so I may get to refinish it if it flies up to expectations. It will sprout #32 on the tail. Still optimistic for an early April maiden flight. If the canard works out, I will post some video's. If it doesn't, I will find some way to blame Trump.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #70 on:** March 31, 2023, 11:51:51 PM »

Well the MonoKote is on and it IS a 5 footer. I just can't make a fuselage full of curves with huge fillets to look like dope with MonoKote. Ain't going to happen. Still I am pleased with the way it is shaping up. Should top out under 65oz which is ok for 700 squares. The trim will be reversed on the top. My first experience with the "Windex" method. To think that it was under the sink all those years while I spent hours poking holes in bubbles. One nice thing about MonoKote is that it comes off faster than it went on if I want to refinish.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #71 on:** April 05, 2023, 10:22:15 PM »

One more day of Monokoting and I will be done. I am gradually learning to hate the stuff. Make the wheel covers, touch up, solder the leads on the new Li-ion batteries, make the safety plug, wrap the leadouts, mount the timer and programming port, strap in the ESC then wait two weeks for the wind to become reasonable.

It has been nearly 2 years since I started this project. It was going to be a simple rebuild of the one I lost in the fire and grew into a test of just about everything I have wanted to do for years. It will wear the number 32 on it's tail and my old unit's logo on it's nose. Some of you Air Force types might recognize it.

Ken

Chuck Matheny · « **Reply #72 on:** April 06, 2023, 06:20:13 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on April 05, 2023, 10:22:15 PM

One more day of Monokoting and I will be done. I am gradually learning to hate the stuff. Make the wheel covers, touch up, solder the leads on the new Li-ion batteries, make the safety plug, wrap the leadouts, mount the timer and programming port, strap in the ESC then wait two weeks for the wind to become reasonable.

It has been nearly 2 years since I started this project. It was going to be a simple rebuild of the one I lost in the fire and grew into a test of just about everything I have wanted to do for years. It will wear the number 32 on it's tail and my old unit's logo on it's nose. Some of you Air Force types might recognize it.

Ken

She's quite long, lean and gorgeous....

Have you ever watched the video that was put out by "MISTER MONOKOTE"...?
I believe his name is Faye Stilly.
He makes it look so easy...which could be inspirational for some or else have exactly the opposite effect on others....

.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #73 on:** April 10, 2023, 11:51:16 PM »

Full Dress Run of the Electronics & Powertrain. Success. One week till liftoff and we will find out just what a small nose canard does, or doesn't do! All that is left is to cover one flap and go over the controls with a fine-tooth comb removing any binding.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #74 on:** April 12, 2023, 05:15:35 PM »

Done with the basic trim. Reweighed with my new custom 6s L-Ion battery and it is now at 64oz ready to fly. Had a setback today. Installing the flaps was a disaster. The hinges were too deep into both the flap and the wing. Since I glued them in with the wire in the only thing I can think is that the glue was not quite dry and drilling the holes for the pins pulled them in. So I am going to have to remove all 10 or them and replace. This time I am using a larger hinge. It will be for the best anyway, the set I have in there now is too stiff. I was all pumped up to have it's madden flight this week. "Sometimes you get the bear, sometimes the bear gets you."

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #75 on:** April 18, 2023, 08:56:12 PM »

Time for the Class Picture. Next to Last in my group to roll out their '23 offering. Mike was first with his Max Bee, then Phillip with something resembling a Bear followed by Crist and his beautiful Agenda followed by Doug and a new Riff Raff and yesterday Matt's latest Scuderia. Joe will round things out with his FW-190 which is nearing completion. And with that I declare that it is FLYING SEASON again!

Ken

Update 04/23 - Tomorrow AM she takes to the air. 1 min w/o the canard to make sure that the basics are within range then the flight I have waited 2 years for - with the canard. I may skip the non-Canard flight and just go for it.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #76 on:** April 24, 2023, 12:24:36 PM »

Well the Journey ends with a conditional success. First trim flights this morning. Everything I wanted from the small canard appears to be there. Granted I only have two trim flights under my belt and there may be surprises down the road but it did exactly what I had hoped for. It has a very tight corner. I will measure it when it is fully trimmed but it feels like 10-12'. The canard was to test two theories of mine. First that a small "flying" canard would not act as much like a forward elevator as it would to help keep then nose from dropping when the flaps are deployed giving the elevator less of a job at the start of a corner and a smoother airflow over the stab to work with. It appears to do just that. It is going to take time to get used to not losing airspeed as much going through a corner and the locking out of the corner was a real shock. The other Endgames I have built locked well but nothing like this one. The second reason for the small canard was to smooth the prop vortex and in doing so make level flight less likely to hunt and provide a smoother airflow over the stab. I purposely did not extend it much past the prop arc. I wanted it to help the elevator, not become one. I also restricted it's movement to 1/2" up and down at the TE. It moves at 60% of the flaps initial rate (Flaps are logarithmic.). Initial flights were in about an 8mph wind and she was rock steady both up and downwind. Even with 1st flight jitters there was not even a hint of hunting.

Now to get a flap slop issue solved. I was hoping that I could get by with the inboard flap having some slop but, nope. Mark Wood's flap mechanism is complicated (but it works really well). I used some auto racing turnbuckle tie rods and they simply have too much play. I could feel the slight roll so they get fixed. I need to switch to ball links or clevises on both ends. Then the full trim package.

Doug Moon · « **Reply #77 on:** April 24, 2023, 02:30:09 PM »

I saw the first flight it was pretty dang steady!

The control system looks robust but you showed me the slop. Where is the slop coming from?

I gotta get a flight on this!

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #78 on:** April 24, 2023, 03:21:44 PM »

Quote from: Doug Moon on April 24, 2023, 02:30:09 PM

I saw the first flight it was pretty dang steady!

The control system looks robust but you showed me the slop. Where is the slop coming from?

I gotta get a flight on this!

I used RC Car turnbuckles to drive the flaps. They aren't as tight as ball links. I also have some slop from a loose fit on the logarithmic horn which is causing some rocking. I think a tie strap between the hold down screws might eliminate that. Picture of the horn assembly below. The point of this gizmo that Mark Wood gave me to test is to have a removable "control box" that can be easily accessed through a hatch for testing different ratio's and trimming without "tweaking". I would probably not go to this extreme except for the testing capability. When I get NATs bound again it will be with a much simpler horn but still logarithmic.

Ken

john e. holliday · « **Reply #79 on:** April 24, 2023, 10:06:45 PM »

Glad to hear/read that the canard is ding what you want it to do. That flap gixmo sure looks complicated. Good luck with the plane.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #80 on:** April 24, 2023, 11:00:40 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on April 24, 2023, 10:06:45 PM

Glad to hear/read that the canard is ding what you want it to do. That flap gizmo sure looks complicated. Good luck with the plane.

Thanks John - It is complicated, most prototypes are. The fact that it works never ceases to amaze me. What is cool is that it is removable. Took it out and put it back in today to fix the slop. This plane is a tribute to how much tinkering you can do when you can't fly. I strongly considered naming it "Tinker Bell", even did some graphics.

Ken

john e. holliday · « **Reply #81 on:** April 25, 2023, 12:09:11 PM »

I for one think that would be a good name.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #82 on:** April 25, 2023, 08:57:37 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on April 25, 2023, 12:09:11 PM

I for one think that would be a good name.

Found this on the internet. It prints to a decal real nice but I don't think I will use it. No room anyway. I thought I would give some recognition to all of the sponsors that contributed absolutely nothing to the project.

Ken

Air Ministry . · « **Reply #83 on:** May 02, 2023, 07:37:55 PM »

Crikey , was thinking of WHAT HAPPENED TO THIS and WHERE DID IT GO just yesterday .

The Adamisins have a lot to answer for !

Four Foot Corner , Coming Up .

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #84 on:** May 11, 2023, 12:09:30 PM »

Wolfgang, this picture is for you. I was absolutely shocked, and pleased at the same time that the CG ended up so far back. I hate adding nose weight when you could have avoided it. I have a very elaborate, and heavy control setup that was placed way too far back in the fuselage and I was disheartened when the "ready to fly" CG was about 3/4" back from where I show it. Strangely it did not *fly* as if it was tail-heavy, it just would not land. Normally tail-heavy shows up everywhere, especially corners and hunting. Not this one. You told me the canard would stabilize but I really didn't believe it till I flew it. I designed the Li-Ion batteries I use to be heavy on one end so all it took was flipping the battery over to fix the CG. Remarkably there was no loss of corner with a 3/4" forward shift. I designed the "mini-canard" to be a counter to the opposite effect of the flaps when first deployed. This is exactly what it seems to do. I also think it is smoothing the airflow over the stab which is a good thing. That may account for the smoothness in the rounds.

I am going to draw up a set of plans, mainly for my own use in preplanning the relocation of the control box and what I learned installing the canard. Alot is going on inside that fuselage. Logarithmic flaps, a CAM rudder, the Canard and all the electrical cr**. Pushrods all over the place!. Right now, the Canard movement is only adjustable about 1/8" either direction. I would like to make that range greater but that would require redesigning the horn that drives it and access to the adjustment. It is easily trimmed but I don't have a reason to so far.

About the nose length. When I first built the fuselage I had opted to not try the Canard. Then I watched a video again of your plane and came back to my senses. I was able to fit a thick CF tube that was a perfect press fit to some ball bearings and some wheel collars I had and slide the whole thing right behind the motor mounts. Makes them removable and trim adjustable.

Sorry about the finish. I have to build in my office, so it is MonoKote on everything.

Ken

Wolfgang Nieuwkamp · « **Reply #85 on:** May 11, 2023, 01:26:09 PM »

Thanks, Ken.
If you look at the CG calculation I did make for you on June 8 2020, you will see that the CG is at the calculated spot!!
Hopefully our approach will have some followers....

Best regards,

Wolfgang

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #86 on:** May 31, 2023, 10:22:23 PM »

Had a stroke of luck today. I was modifying my battery tray to be able to move the battery forward another inch when I noticed red where there should have been white on the nose behind the spinner. So, it took off the spinner and found the motor had come loose. So I started to tighten it and discovered that the mounting holes had stretched. Not elongated, stretched. The mounts are the Morris printed mounts and I suspect that the motor started vibrating, got hot and softened the plastic. So I proceeded to cut a doubler to reinforce the mount. I don't think I will use this mount again on a full body.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #87 on:** August 12, 2023, 05:17:21 PM »

It's catching on!

Air Ministry . · « **Reply #88 on:** August 13, 2023, 05:24:23 AM »

Now you can change your mind at the last moment and still be completey safe ! .

Steve Dwyer · « **Reply #89 on:** August 22, 2023, 06:13:16 AM »

Ken,

Put 260 horses in a Cessna 172 with a CS prop and you get the same performance. What's new here?

Steve

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #90 on:** August 31, 2023, 05:44:27 PM »

Test beds are meant to test. The canard has proven to be a plus but it was not made strong enough so I am going to replace it with a stiffer one with a wider range of movement so I can test it better before starting on Engame IV. I have toyed with using a CF Tube (arrow shaft in my case) as an Elevator LE with imbedded Robarts hinges. Actually made one before the fire but never quite figured how to make the horn work. Endgame has the elevator horn on top which makes the access hatch unsightly. While messing around with the Canard horn I came across a way to make it easy to adjust that would probably work on a stab. It would make the elevator ratio adjustable through a small hole in the bottom similar to the Walker flap adjustment port. The only thing I need to figure out is whether a #3 bolt is strong enough or if I need a #4.

Ken

Air Ministry . · « **Reply #91 on:** September 07, 2023, 04:45:44 AM »

Hurumph .

While the shortest way between two points is a straight line ,
sometimes you take a wrong turn . or overshoot . Never Mind ,
I needed the exercise . And we know the district better .

RIGHT . The STRAIGHT THROUGH is a balls up , lad . Sorry / it needs
like these reconfigured FLAP HORNS with a Dog Leg , perhaps ? ?
wotcher gotta do is strap it on the side . Id be loath to put any oles in your main transverse load bearing member there . The Foreplane Spar .

as its a stress disruption , discontinuous continuity of deflection ( under that much load ) Like if you hit a big bump in the air while maxed out
downhill . We all know where that leads ( the tennis courts , Thats where all the racket was the other night . UNLESS its the ' dog ' ! ? next door )

RIGHT , bound X loop ea, thing / side / end - the horn will hang on well enough . You could even do a conventional slider with vertical adj. screw & side allen key
or hex head & buy a ring spanner that fits . A little one .

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What the general theory IS . ( you coud do this if THAT is a ' test ' piece !

Bend it over your knee or something more sophisticated . Like a fake nose ,
with the bits where they are there , and see what happens . Try it with a unmolested Std. tube - and observe its curve etc . Like throwing a 3 foot steel tube on a stilson or socket handle
to get it off . Or down FIRM .
Bend the b&# thing till it snaps . & see if it bends even & PROGRESSIVELY . which I think is what I was looking for . Should be inside its elastic limits . Even under severe overload .
Whereas a uninterupted member ( Carbon Tube to us ) perhaps is yards ahead . Perhaps not . But Id like a bit of groudwork to find out beforehand , were it mine . This we call brevity .

The thing looks a bit like a air brake , if it were whacked up at 45 degrees . Which would put a bit of load on the cross shaft . Which is what all the bitching is about .

Wonder it didnt take off . Oh Dear . It did , actually . Most Unpleasant . But was catapulted rather than that thing there .

Air Ministry . · « **Reply #92 on:** September 07, 2023, 05:04:49 AM »

cant picture . but

You could throw a threaded hollow bar ( thick wall tube ) with a crescent in its side - to mate the cross tube .

So you screwed that bolt up & down in that . with a locknut or two . Personally the pushrod end offends .
Me - Just a L bend in 3 M M wire , across into a small block / tube / bit ? / piece of 1/4 thick suff . Paxilon / Bakelite / tufnol . ??

Nut staked ( soldered nut / wasjher ?? woteva ) so the fitting stays as it rotates . OR , if the pushrod will throw out the side -
just undo there ( ' C ' clip - or just a vertical timber THING that stops it going sideways inward when its in . the pushrod - sideways .
When its out - wind X turns - throw in pushrod . Throw in side restraint . Wouldnt even need a locknut .

YOU apply for the Patent . Send all the proceeds to ME .

LIKE a 1/2 Sq pice of 1/4 nylon stuff . ( old prop hub ) drilled for vertical screw , drilled for pushrod end . Bolt screws up & down through the threaded tube strapped on the cross beam .

Threaded tube has been filed across - near to threads , Strapped and bound onto cross spar . THIS would put the Push Rod End pretty much staright over the pivot . If you want it there .Tangental .

We just realised , so the end justifies the biginning . Where was I . More Tea . Thanks .