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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Perry Rose on April 07, 2019, 05:59:42 AM
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I'm scratch building a rather large profile plane 697 sq. in. wing. I want to use electric power a 2826/06 Arrowind motor. I'm interested to know should I use ply doublers on the nose and how thick? There will be 1/4 inch triplers on both sides, will that be enough without the ply?
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Hi Perry
Sounds like a nice set-up, you should be able to all but hide the battery in the profile fuse.
Balsa is quite strong but all the grain is aligned in one direction - for that reason I think plywood helps tie things together. I would keep the doublers, but use 1/8" light ply instead of 1/16 birch ply. BONUS points for putting the ply on the outermost layers where it will do the most good. Lite ply isn't too bad for shaping either.
Another effective option is to run the ply over most of the height of the fuse but use balsa above & below to finish off the upper and lower outlines. Again it will make it easier to sand some refinement (shape) into the fuse.
Don't forget the build pix!
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I have nothing to add beyond I'm starting to study "clean-power" builds. I'm curious about electric power. I've heard that models designed for glow can be built lighter with the minimal vibrations introduced by the smoother running power package. This is a build I'd like to watch!
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What about two layers of 1/16 balsa on a 45 bias over the 1/4 balsa that fills in the overhang of the motor box then 2 oz fiberglass?
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This is the first post on the new planes progress. I can't post pictures that are big enough so I have to do it through my blog. If it works.
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It's starting.
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I'm scratch building a rather large profile plane 692 sq. in. wing. I want to use electric power a 2826/06 Arrowind motor. I'm interested to know should I use ply doublers on the nose and how thick? There will be 1/4 inch triplers on both sides, will that be enough without the ply?
Perry - slightly off subject to what you are asking but Dennis pretty well covered that. You don't need the battleship nose strength that you do in IC. What I have found out about electric noses is that batteries all weigh in differently, even within the same mfg and size. It won't hurt you to build a weight box in both the nose and tail instead of just the tail. I have a little slot above my battery where I can slide in a weight. I weigh my batteries and have a slip in weight for each one. Especially valuable if you have different brands. There are lots of placed to hide weights in an electric but it is nice to have a place reserved.
Just a thought - Ken
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https://perrystoys.blogspot.com/
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http://perrystoys.blogspot.com/ One piece trailing edge.
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https://perrystoys.blogspot.com/
The flaps.
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Hi Perry:
I just bumped a how-to about this subject to the top on the All Amped Up forum here. Hope it helps. It's entitled RD-1 E Electirc conversion.
Bob Hunt
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http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
A little more progress.
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Landing gear and bell crank.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
Wing tips.
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Installing the flap horn.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
It's time for the fuselage.
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http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
It's time for the fuselage.
Looking really good. Can I suggest something. I have been using a target arrow shaft laid on the top of the fuselage. It totally eliminates the tail wiggle. They are lighter than standard arrows and dirt cheap.
Ken
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Looking really good. Can I suggest something. I have been using a target arrow shaft laid on the top of the fuselage. It totally eliminates the tail wiggle. They are lighter than standard arrows and dirt cheap.
I'm going to glue a strip of balsa across the top for the same reason and for rounding the top.
Ken
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http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
More on the fuselage.
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http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
Control horn this time.
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Target arrow is lighter than balsa and it is already round!
Cheers - Ken
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Ken, my fuselage is 17/32 thick. I don't believe the arrow shaft is that big or if it is i'd have to cut it in half length wise which is above my skill level.
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Ken, my fuselage is 17/32 thick. I don't believe the arrow shaft is that big or if it is i'd have to cut it in half length wise which is above my skill level.
You could use one of those 1/4" X-Acto hollowing blades and cut a channel in the top, drop the sucker in and CA it in place then cover it with a balsa cap. I did that on one that had a 5/8 thick built up profile. That white Twister I flew in profile at the Dallas "contest" has one on both the top bottom. It doesn't twist. The top one is burried, the bottom one is the bottom.
Just an idea. What you have there looks great.
ken
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Fuselage and push rod.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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The new plane construction is at the fill and sand stage. Because I used 1/64 ply on the rear two feet of the fuselage I don't have much work on that portion. The bare balsa is another thing altogether. I filled enough to spray a coat of primer which generally shows all the spots that need more filling and sanding. When I get tired of filling and sanding I'll install the wing and glue it in place. I've done several trial fits with the flap horn and flaps to get a feel of how that will go.
I did put a fillet around the canopy with Super Fil. It's good stuff.
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Getting together. Fitting the flaps was a bit of a bother.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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RTF (almost ready for fillets)
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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Fillets and first weigh in.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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It's up to covering and I don't have any covering. I'm doing some small parts like the tips just to keep things going.
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Easy non messy way to get glue into hinge pockets.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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Fitting the covering to the wing.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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Using the new Monokote.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
Another weigh in has it at 61 ounces. That includes one ounce of tip weight.
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It's ready to fly.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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It's ready to fly.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
Love the lines. I also love being able to fly it before the final finish.
Ken
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The first flight report.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
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The first flight report.
http://perrystoys.blogspot.com
Don't you just love it when you can fly it before you finish it! Did you add any motor offset? For some strange reason all of my electrics have needed it.
ken
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Right now there is very little offset. That's probably why there is light tension. I've read Paul Walker's articles and will take them into consideration, except the leadout position. After paint I'll re check things. I was just happy it flew well and didn't smoke with the new motor set up.
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I finished the painting today 5/10/19 and re assembled it ready to fly. 64.3 ounces now. http://www.perrystoys.blogspot.com
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Our daughter from England was here for a visit and I didn't get a chance to fly until today. I tweaked the power up a bit and put on 62 x .018 lines instead of the 63's. Today's short first flight was to see how the changes affected the flight and to time the laps. There is more line tension and 5.12/lap. I turned the timer up for a full pattern flight. Trying a full pattern after 3 short flights is something I've never had the courage to do before. I bench trimmed the plane as close to the other Nomads I've built so that may have stiffened my spine a bit. I had 2 more fully charged batteries { 3 more on order} and got in 2 full flights. The first had too much time and the second ran for 6 laps after the clover or 30 seconds less than the first full flight. I can't claim that it flew right off the board but it is as close as I can get it. I'll need a second set of eyes to check for other anomalies.
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Our daughter from England was here for a visit and I didn't get a chance to fly until today. I tweaked the power up a bit and put on 62 x .018 lines instead of the 63's. Today's short first flight was to see how the changes affected the flight and to time the laps. There is more line tension and 5.12/lap. I turned the timer up for a full pattern flight. Trying a full pattern after 3 short flights is something I've never had the courage to do before. I bench trimmed the plane as close to the other Nomads I've built so that may have stiffened my spine a bit. I had 2 more fully charged batteries { 3 more on order} and got in 2 full flights. The first had too much time and the second ran for 6 laps after the clover or 30 seconds less than the first full flight. I can't claim that it flew right off the board but it is as close as I can get it. I'll need a second set of eyes to check for other anomalies.
Your second set of eyes can be a video camera. Set up right it remembers everything, doesn't lie and can be replayed in slow motion. Do it twice. Once from the upwind judges position, camera at 5' and again from about 30 degrees to the side down wind with the camera at about 3' looking up. You get everything you need to know from the 2nd one (including how much control you are using if you have good slow-mo) except wing position in the overheads which is pretty clear in the 1st one. The 3' looking up lets you see the bottom of the plane in maneuvers.
Want some real fun, set it up zoomed in on you flying a pattern. You know all those things you swear you never do... Erase the video before anyone else see's it!
If you are already doing all of this - Never Mind.
I really like this ship. Hope you bring it to Dallas this year.
Ken
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After 13 flights I took the plane to Houston. It wouldn't fit into the Hyundai Elantra so I loaded it into the Ram 2500. It was windy at the contest but the plane handled it quite well. I hadn't flown it in any kind of wind before. I tweaked the power up a smidge and had at it. I was happy that it flew well in those conditions.
Back at the hotel the front brakes were sticking and help was needed. Saturday at 4:00 pm on a holiday weekend isn't a good time to find help. We called our son in Slaughter, La, 306 miles away, and he hooked up his car trailer and left for Houston about 0400 Sunday morning. He arrived at 0930 and we were headed home by 1000. Monday morning we changed the front calipers and hoses and all is well again. We did notice a noisy wheel bearing and that is the next project when I get the money.
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Perry-
LOVE the blog; it is so nice and organized!!!
Great way to have info at the ready, and for referring back to.
R,
Target