This is what I do.  Get a second copy of rib patterns and cut the out.   On constant chord wings you only need 4 patterns,  main ribs and center ribs.   Tapered wings need pattern for each rib.   I cut the patterns up and proceed to glue the pattern to plywood.  Constant chord wings I use 1/8 ply mostly I use 1/16 ply.  I cut them out and sand down to the outline.   I don't cut the spar notches in the pattern.   If you are going to use a rod jig make sure the holes are in correct spot.   The hard part,  cut the balsa sheets up for the ribs.  Stack them between the templates and sand to the pattern.  When done take magic marker and mark one side, top or bottom, doesn't matter as I have yet to get airfoil the same top and bottom.

Now is time to mark spar locations before unbolting the stack.  You did get bolts long enough from your friendly Ace Hardware store, right.  I didn't mention the leading and trailing edge.  The trailing edge is easy,  the leading edge depends on if it is a notch or squared off.   I forgot about marking center line of the rib.  Once ribs are done there are several ways of assembling the wing.  I have built several wings in my lap with no jig other than masking tape and rubber bands.   Most are built using the rod jig,  but some how when rods were removed I had a twist.  My jig sits on a surface that has been checked each time I use it. I blame it on the stresses of the sheeting when applied while in the jig.  Now do I have you confused enough that you will go with laser cut ribs from a CAD drawing???

The old school way to cut straight-tapered wings is to cut a pair of templates, one for the root rib and one for the tip rib, then bolt a bunch of balsa blanks in a stack between 'em, then use a long straight knife and a touch of sandpaper to cut the stack.  Each rib will have an angled edge -- you fix that up for spars and whatnot as you go, then you knock off all the high spots with an idiot board when the wing is assembled.

It's harder to describe than it is to do.

I don't have a picture of a stack bolted up, but here's a picture of two stacks of rib blanks waiting to be bolted up, and a wing in the process of being built from the ribs thusly made.

Just trace them on the wood and cut them out with a #11 blade.

MM

Just trace them on the wood and cut them out with a #11 blade.

MM

This is also what I mostly do.

Makes me wonder, Do minor imperfections and irregularities matter much? Especially on a more basic model, like a Ringmaster.

On a constant chord wing take your ribs, cut them out via your choice, stack and bind via your choice taking care that they won't slip against each other, lightly sand them to straighten the edges, then unstack and flip every other rib, re-stack and lightly sand again.  If all went well enough the ribs will be both nicely profiled and symmetrical.

I never tried this with a tapered wing.

Phil

I do the stack and sand method but with a few differences. Blanks are scrap (medium to hard) 3/32 sandwiched between the hardwood templates, carved, and shaped. Keep them oriented and note the high side of the angled edge. Apply thin CA to the edges to harden them up.
Use these as templates to individually cut the actual ribs out of 1/16. High side of the angle goes down. Spar notches are left off of the templates but added later to the actual ribs. If one is careful and doesn't cut into the templates they can be re-used to replace a rib damaged during the build (it happens) or to construct rib sets for additional wings.

Or just "loft" them in AutoCAD 3D and let the laser do all the hard work.

All of the suggestions above work well. What is important is that you end up with a rib set that is accurate and will do the job for you. Also something that you will enjoy working on. After all this is a hobby! Have fun!

Is this the legend of the 'Old John Henry? The difference is it's a hobby so to each his own.


MM

But laser cutting is making me lazy.   

All of the above methods fascinate me, and some I'll try, some I won't. I clicked up and thought about every picture posted, I'm a visual learner. My first attempt at stacking between hard templates and shaping came out so well I surprised myself. I thought it was the most professional looking thing I had ever done. Bob's method it the most ingenious hands-on I've seen, and Eric's is the fastest, after the software input, I suppose. Both produce stunningly perfect results. I detected no negativity, just a statement of comparison. I'm not wired to pick up on negative vibes easily, and probably sometimes miss them when they really are there. I just appreciate that y'all take the time to show us what you do.
Rusty

Hi Bob;

Sorry I missed the smiley face at the end of your comments.

You know how much I appreciate all that you have done for the hobby and how much I respect you. I did not want you to think I was discounting your method.

My Bad!!!
Eric

When I first started scratch building I cut everything individually with a blade and later changed to making templates for stacking and cutting by hand or band saw. After a few years of doing it that way I concluded cutting individually was more satisfying (I'm a slow builder) and I reverted back to tracing each rib and cutting it out with a #11 blade. I stack all the ribs and sand to even them...then cut the spar notches and sand them evenly using home brew sticks of different sizes with sandpaper glued to them.  For small holes I stack the ribs and use a drill press. For large holes and curves I use drafting templates and a blade. I make no claims that this is a better way to do ribs but it works for me and that's all that matters.

Bill P.

What are ribs?
Lol.
As long as you get usable sets, it doesn't matter how you get there. And there are lots of options.
Pick one method you like, and either stick with it, or change it up each time.
Have fun building whatever you do.